Mark Maras

I'm not sure if Grose Jets are still available. They were an improved (better mouse trap) needle and seat valve. I suspect they were more effective at shutting fuel flow off at higher than normal pressure which is 3 - 3 1/2 psi. I've never experienced a problem with the oem needles and seats.

Be sure to let us know what the float levels are currently set at when you get the new pieces installed. Useful information for us die-hard SU freaks.

I don't know which side would be the most effective. Logically (this has failed me in the past) it seems to me that the reflective side would face the heat source but I would rely on the info and or instructions that came with the shielding product. Let us know which direction you install it and any change that you notice. I still have doubts about the two piece heat shield. It seems like it would be more effective if was one piece. You could bridge that gap with a third piece attached with speed nuts and screws.

What was plugging? the bowl to jet fuel line? I can't imagine what it could have been. I thought the lines were new?

I remember it being referred as a castle nut too. Interesting that Z Car Depot sells the newer style wheel bearing nuts that use a castle washer and a plain nut for all years.

I haven't heard of a replacement, maybe a product like Plasti Dip would be suitable.

Walmart? Made in USA? Two things I never thought I'd see together. BTW, the tires look good. Let us know how they handle, rain and shine.

Two tips. Remove the strut bracket and heat the panel with a hair dryer to make it more flexible.

Just a heads up. Greyhound Package Express is a lot cheaper than UPS or FEDEX. One does have to deliver and pick up from the bus station but it's well worth it. Example, rear hatch glass, Portland to Denver, $63.00 and a very clean tank that shall remain unidentified, Portland to New York, about the same price.

Be sure to let us know how the fan works.

Did the ZX injector fan make any difference? The extra pump can't hurt. Nissan recommended it as PART of the solution. How much good it does remains to be seen and reported back by you. I've not dealt with the reflective heat barrier. Sounds like a good idea. I'm assuming that the reflective side faces the headers. As I recall your heat shield is two piece. Have you considered bridging that gap?

That's just ugly!

We all wondered that too. You don't $uppo$e they wanted to $ell you a new engine?

I like the string trimmer line idea. I've installed a few glass pieces over the years and tried many different cord ideas. None were satisfactory. Thanks.

Too many of the Z's were parked because they had a minor problem that would have been easy to fix. Carb tuning, brakes, valve adjustment were some of the most common reasons I've run into. Sad.

I'd pull the valve cover first and look for the gremlin. You could get a bore scope and take a look at the cylinders but most of the time they're fine. I'm still betting the tapping is coming from the valve train.

If you can, take pics when you remove the cover. We all want to see what gremlin lurks under it.

On your three screw carbs, there should be a float bowl drain plug on the side of the float bowls. The "float sync. tools" replace the drain plugs with the clear tube oriented up. The fuel height in the tube is the same as the fuel height in the bowl. same as if there was a window in the side of the bowl.

Do you feel a pulsation in the pedal? You might also try easing the E. brake on while driving to try to detect a pulsation in the E. brake handle. It's also possible that the return springs on the rear brakes are weak and not pulling the shoes all the way back, allowing them to drag. VOE on my 71 621 pick-up.

One of the loose pieces to look for.

If memory is correct the thread is BPT. Try McMaster-Carr.

I agree with the Captain. Pull the valve cover. It's easy. (Did your mechanic do that?) That tapping noise sounds like it is coming from the valve train. Look for a worn camshaft or loose pieces. (both are doubtful) If all looks OK, adjust the valves and take another compression test. BTW, although this may sound complicated if you've not done it before, it's all pretty basic and quite easy to understand and accomplish with a repair manual and a few hand tools. Adjusting the valve lash is part of a regular tune-up on Zs. It's a good thing to learn.

Did your mechanic figure out the reason for the low compression? I'd want to know what's wrong before a rebuild. There's many reasons for low compression that can be repaired without a complete rebuild.

Ditto on the new studs, lock washers and nuts. You'll also want to coat all the threads with anti-seize. None has been used on the old studs in your pic. (Shame, Shame) Another possibility to ensure there's no trouble with removal in the future would be brass nuts on steel (maybe stainless) studs. Before you tear it apart, how about clamping the side of the flange with the broken stud with vise grips and listen to the degree of change. Should be easy to reach from above.

Did a little on line digging for info. It appears that Mustangs and Jeeps at, one time, used the T-5. The jeep reverse switch for the NWC T5 trans, APPEARS to be very similar to the one on the left in your pic. Didn't research the Mustang trans switch yet. Perhaps a trip to the parts store with switch in hand will come up with a match. I hope the Jeep switch works for you. They're only $10.00 - $15.00.