Mark Maras

Wire brush and spray all the exhaust bolts with penetrating oil first. The exhaust is the worst part of the trans. removal, IMO. Also, if you're using jack stands and the trans. is coming out from under the car, be sure the car is high enough to clear the bell housing. Be sure you change the pilot bearing in the flywheel. You can use a bearing puller or use bread, a socket and extension and a hammer. I went with the bread option on an 81 RX7 recently when the bearing puller failed. Works great.

Zinc rich paint works great on old discolored galvanized metal.

Great stuff. Gypsy, Crow and Tom Servo would love it.

PM sent to Newzee about late 71 "rolling chassis in stock."

Throw that amount of horsepower into a Z and you'll be chasing the weakest link in the drive train. When you correct that weak link, you'll find the next one, and the next one, etc.

We don't know your son's age but I would pass along this good advice that the salesman told me when I got my first Z. Take it easy for the first six months of driving a Z until he gets to know the car's limitations and his. Most serious accidents in a Z happen in the first six months. If he has the "need for speed", local clubs often have novice racing driver training courses that include classroom and track time.

Will it run on starting fluid? My first guess is lack of fuel in the float bowls.

Anything from Lightnin' Hopkins.

Tis but a flesh wound.

Another possibility is the choke knob mount kit. Can't remember the name tho. Not enough coffee yet.

Some Caig DeoxIT for all those electrical connections that are slowly corroding.

@tzagi1 There's your answer. Get a Georgia title and license and transfer it to Nevada. Might even work. I couldn't and wouldn't do it. I'd always doubt that the car was really mine and not the legal property of some poor guy that lost his Z in a divorce. I'm still not convinced it was hers to sell. A bill of sale is not proof of ownership in Oregon no matter how old the vehicle is.

Yeah but don't you have to prove that you own it to sell it?

Curious how one cracks a fender unless it's fiberglass or worse Bondo.

Is there anything in the divorce paperwork that shows the car legally went to her?

Nice. If the pistons or the intake throat were marked in 1/8" increments, one could accurately determine the the needle stage at any RPM under a load.

Another one of those old SU articles talked about removing the dampers (screw top with the jiggly bits), inserting rods (pencils?) with 1/8" graduations into the piston stems, starting the engine and monitor the height of the pistons at any given RPM. The part that confuses me is, will the pistons go higher than normal with no dampener. The article didn't mention it but t seems like it would due to the fact that different wt. oils will change the mixture over the entire throttle range. A possible way around this, IMO, would be to mark the side of the piston that is visible with 1/8" graduated lines (Sharpie pen) and watch the piston as it moves up through the RPM range. The article also mentioned that if the rods are equal length, the carbs are balanced when the part of the rods are equal ht. Makes sense.

One of those old SU articles said that if you're going richer in any stage, .001-.002 is the amount to remove. When leaning out a stage, they said .001 increments are best. More danger in harming the engine with a lean condition. They also recommended not changing the idle stage because if you richen or lean the idle stage, it will do the same to the entire range. I understand the wisdom in modding needles in small increments but I can't figure out why changing the idle stage would affect everything else. It must be true, it was printed in an old book and not the internet.

Roy Moore would be happy if he could take this country back to 1917, and would do it any way he can. He would have fit right in back then. Poor misunderstood boy, he was just born too late.

Thank's Geoff. I'd hazard a guess that Geoff has SM's. As I recall the SM'x did run a bit richer and those are the needles that ZTherapy supplies.

@rossiz Geoff, we need your input. Having done the conversion successfully, what needles are you running?

Dedicated to Cliff. If I had a hammer, I'd hammer in the morning. I'd hammer in the evening, all over this land,

I don't like over-lapping seams. They tend to rust out faster. I'd cut off the over-lap, clean it up and butt-weld the quarter panel seams. Best way to start out is find a small easy spot to replace and see how it goes.

Anyone remember GMC split rims? They liked to separate under pressure if they weren't seated properly.