Mark Maras

Anything from Lightnin' Hopkins.

Tis but a flesh wound.

Another possibility is the choke knob mount kit. Can't remember the name tho. Not enough coffee yet.

Some Caig DeoxIT for all those electrical connections that are slowly corroding.

@tzagi1 There's your answer. Get a Georgia title and license and transfer it to Nevada. Might even work. I couldn't and wouldn't do it. I'd always doubt that the car was really mine and not the legal property of some poor guy that lost his Z in a divorce. I'm still not convinced it was hers to sell. A bill of sale is not proof of ownership in Oregon no matter how old the vehicle is.

Yeah but don't you have to prove that you own it to sell it?

Curious how one cracks a fender unless it's fiberglass or worse Bondo.

Is there anything in the divorce paperwork that shows the car legally went to her?

Nice. If the pistons or the intake throat were marked in 1/8" increments, one could accurately determine the the needle stage at any RPM under a load.

Another one of those old SU articles talked about removing the dampers (screw top with the jiggly bits), inserting rods (pencils?) with 1/8" graduations into the piston stems, starting the engine and monitor the height of the pistons at any given RPM. The part that confuses me is, will the pistons go higher than normal with no dampener. The article didn't mention it but t seems like it would due to the fact that different wt. oils will change the mixture over the entire throttle range. A possible way around this, IMO, would be to mark the side of the piston that is visible with 1/8" graduated lines (Sharpie pen) and watch the piston as it moves up through the RPM range. The article also mentioned that if the rods are equal length, the carbs are balanced when the part of the rods are equal ht. Makes sense.

One of those old SU articles said that if you're going richer in any stage, .001-.002 is the amount to remove. When leaning out a stage, they said .001 increments are best. More danger in harming the engine with a lean condition. They also recommended not changing the idle stage because if you richen or lean the idle stage, it will do the same to the entire range. I understand the wisdom in modding needles in small increments but I can't figure out why changing the idle stage would affect everything else. It must be true, it was printed in an old book and not the internet.

Roy Moore would be happy if he could take this country back to 1917, and would do it any way he can. He would have fit right in back then. Poor misunderstood boy, he was just born too late.

Thank's Geoff. I'd hazard a guess that Geoff has SM's. As I recall the SM'x did run a bit richer and those are the needles that ZTherapy supplies.

@rossiz Geoff, we need your input. Having done the conversion successfully, what needles are you running?

Dedicated to Cliff. If I had a hammer, I'd hammer in the morning. I'd hammer in the evening, all over this land,

I don't like over-lapping seams. They tend to rust out faster. I'd cut off the over-lap, clean it up and butt-weld the quarter panel seams. Best way to start out is find a small easy spot to replace and see how it goes.

Anyone remember GMC split rims? They liked to separate under pressure if they weren't seated properly.

The vert. defrost ran thru at least Aug of 71. I haven't seen the inside of an early hatch in years but as I recall there is ducting inside the hatch to prevent exhaust from entering the cabin. the clips that hold the ducts in place rust away and until a short time ago were not available. One of our members recently had a limited number of the clips manufactured and is currently doing another batch. You'll need the clips and ducts if you're going to try to modify a hatch. The exhaust will find it's way into the rear given ANY opportunity.

Book'im Danno!

I'd add a quick compression test along with the rad.

I agree. No body sag. Not that they would.

I considered a bad pump too but it was replaced. How about something far simpler. A bad, new thermostat. I'd try removing it and put it in boiling water to see if responds and at what temp.

I wonder if anyone has ever filled one with CLR and let it set for a few days? It works wonders on other metal parts.

i agree with Patcon. Time to flush the cooling system. Many members have reported large quantities of scale in the block when the expansion plugs have been removed. Hope yours cleans up with a good flush.

No over-flowing doesn't mean the float level is correct. No over flowing just means that the needle and seat aren't stuck open or fuel pressure isn't too high. The floats could be too low which could cause the white (not tan) plugs 2.75 turns down at normal driving. I still want to know if the fuel level is 1/16" or so below the top of the nozzle when it's 2 1/2 turns down. This tip for checking the float level at the nozzle isn't mine. It came from Bruce Palmer at ZTherapy.