Mark Maras

I understand the logic in having the fan clutch heat actuated BUT I think it would have been an improvement to have the fan clutch only actuated when the vehicle slowed below 10 mph.. As Zed Head stated "The fan only matters at low (or no) vehicle speed.

I actually had two old Chevys back in the day. A 39 long bed pick-up and a 49 deluxe coupe. As I recall the 49 had a push button starter and the 39 had a starter pedal that you stepped on to mimic a starter solenoid.

Our daughter just got a new Nissan. She showed me all the bells and whistles it had which included "push button start". The look on her face, when I told her my 49 Chevy had push button start was priceless.

As I understand it, 14.7:1 is the ideal ratio but everything I've seen and heard says a gas engine runs much stronger and COOLER with the mixture somewhere in the 12.5:1 to 13.2:1 area.

This part of the mystery seems like a bad ignition switch.

When you say larger oil pan, do you mean wider or deeper?

When you install the new nozzles be sure the attachment points on the choke linkage (flat bar with bent ends) are exactly parallel with their mounting points. The linkage piece frequently needs a bit of a twist on one end or the other to re-align it. Misalignment will cause the nozzles to stay down in the choke position.

That's the bottom of the fuel nozzle. Have you retrieved the brass nozzle that attaches to your broken piece? My first thought was Ztherapy (Salem, Or.) as a source for the nozzle.

I'd pull the valve cover, cover as much of the surrounding area with some thing to catch the oil, (shop towels, bath towels, plastic sheeting, etc), start it, ensure the cam is getting oiled from one end to the other, shut it off and clean up the mess. That's how I discovered an early oil spray bar that was severely gummed up.

You can find a tutorials on YouTube for specific projects like valve adjusting.

I've used mineral spirits to soften the rubber and wintergreen oil to keep the rubber soft. However, I just googled "rubber softener" and found that many are using silicone spray. Soak the rubber piece in silicone spray (it contains a plasticizer), seal it in a baggy for 3 - 7 days and voila, refreshed rubber. It's worth a try.

It's probably that love-hate relationship we have with rust.

I'd pull the float chamber top and check the float valve for extraneous matter blocking it open or wear on the needle or seat faces.

I've never heard of a differential cooled with fuel. I doubt I would have even considered it as an option.

I'd break it off and super glue it.

We 've got the same feeling here. 20 f this morning and tonight along with freezing rain that is predicted to end up 1/4"-1/2" thick. That means trees and power lines down around here. Thank God for our wood stove. I keep thinking about our Canadian neighbors and even stop whining about the cold when I remember them.

@jalexquijano I'm still not clear if all the plugs are fouling or just #4. Or if #4 is the first one to foul followed by the others. Please clarify.

Is #4 still the only plug fouling or are we dealing with all the plugs fouling after idling in traffic for a half hour?

Probably something to keep the sunroof? from leaking. The something looks like carpet, hopefully it has a waterproof base.

I'd look into the shifter bushing. Worn ones can create a lot of lateral movement.

Is the sound coming from the engine or starter? A stethoscope (3' piece of garden hose) and a friend turning the key would help to isolate it.

If you can't find anything wet under the car, I'd look behind the right rear plastic panel.

Even someone as old as Jay Leno.

I don't remember any yellow paint marks on my Nov. 70 build 240. The key word is remember.

The downside to me would be struggling to start the engine when it's cold, not two choke cables.