Carl Beck

Hi Mike: Thanks for pointing this out. The VIN was listed in Pete's book and thus was on the VZ Register at ZHome.com Now we have a picture of it, and a little more information about it. We now have 29 of the 37 VZ's at least accounted for. It is one of the VZ's that did not retain its original engine to begin with, so now the question is "did the owner retain the VZ engine installed, that would match the paperwork - if one wanted to return it to its VZ configuration. As far as the market value goes - I'd have to say that the future value, once we are out of this recession, would have to be negatively effected... VZ Collectors want Vintage Z's not street mod'ed Z's. In todays market who knows? At any rate I doubt he'll be getting many bids above $20K to $25K. The fact that it had to be put on E-Bay should tell us something, as most VZ's have changed hands privately over the past two or three years. If the reserve isn't set too high - someone will get a very nice car for reasonable money. FWIW. Carl B.

The present plan is to leave here around Friday noon - that should put us in Atlanta some time around 8:00 - 9:00 PM. All depends on a number of things out of my control.. When are you planning on going up? I'm going to call Bill C. and Rich tomorrow.. hope to see you there, Carl B.

Hi Mike: Great Video - thanks for sharing it with us. Perhaps a subject for another thread - but what specific camera etc do you have mounted? I've been looking at different options. BTW - You can drop the NISSAN logos/advertising - they don't pay the contingency money to the customers here in the U.S. that race their cars any longer.:stupid: I think that the contingency money, very small support that it was; and the Competition Dept staying open - was really the main reason one would see a Datsun 240-Z here in the States with NISSAN advertising. . FWIW, Carl B.

Outstanding!!! The broken stub axle is a real bummer. thanks Mark Carl B.

See if this helps: http://ZHome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ThomasMSD.htm That was the only "Chrysler" part I could find - many that is what you were thinking about. FWIW, Carl B.

Only a few more days - get your act together and BE THERE. This is a great event, wonder cars, great people and time to enjoy it all. http://classicmotorsports.net/events/mitty-09/ So who is planing on being at the Mitty? FWIW, Carl B.

Andy - what off-road sites do you hang out at? Carl B.

I removed it on my White 72 - the only way to tell is to take the rear panels out - or drop the fuel tank. Of course the other way to tell is the car doesn't smell like gasoline.. Carl B

Hi JD: I think we'd have to at least see lots of clear images, that show the details of the car. Additionally we'd have know the original mileage, and if the car still has its original engine. One person's "mint condition" is another person's "restorable car"... The value of a Datsun 240Z today is about 85% determined by the actual condition of the entire vehicle... About 10 to 15% is dependant upon the location or market into which it will sell. FWIW, Carl B.

1. Several Original Owners including myself have used nothing but Armor-All on our dash for the past 36 to 40 years. Our dashes are still crack free and we are still using Armor-All. Might not be "scientific" enough for some - but it certainly represents a very long term experiment, with observable and positive results. There are better protectant products for use on tires today.. 2. What you use on an old dash - the previous care and maintenance of which is unknown - will most likely be a shot in the dark. If there are areas that are turning gray and feel stiff, you are most likely looking at vinyl with U.V. damage. I'd coat that dash with Vaseline Petroleum Jelly and let it soak in for a couple of days - then wipe it dry with a soft towel. Far more important than what you use - is how you care for it going forward. Keep it out of direct sun, and avoid subjecting it to broad thermal cycles. If possible, you want to avoid shock and vibration. Don't put stress on the dash by installing larger radio's, or taking the dash out and bolting it back in. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi David: Here is a fairly high resolution picture - that might show you what your asking about... Download it to your computer - and scrol around. It's a fairly large file.. http://www2.zhome.com:81/78EngineFront.jpg hope that helps, Carl

Seriously - if you have to ask - the answer is most likely - NO. Keep looking until you find a car you want - rather than a price that's nice. FWIW, Carl B.

Hello Valerij: It would be helpful if you let us know what price range you are looking in. Can you spend $20K+ Euro's for a very nice example, or are you looking for a car to start a restoration project on? Can you arrange the shipping, and handle the import paperwork? Or are would you want a professional importer to handle the entire transaction? Give us more detailed information and perhaps someone can help... regards, Carl B.

yes - the picture on the Left is the original - and I'm glad to see you could still get new one's. Now we just have to make sure that someone still offers the rubber replacement blades that fit/work... If you take the wiper arms off - it might be a good time to go ahead and take the cowel panel off - and clean/grease the entire drive assembly. Amazing how much that improves the preformance of the windshield wipers FWIW, Carl B.

Here are the BRE Instructions. You will notice that there are three places at the rear of the spook - that should line up with the existing captive nuts on the bottom of the radiator core support {aka Front Cross Member}. Arne's doesn't seem to reach back there. The Spooks that I bought from Les are exactly the same as the original .. and mount to the underside of the radiator core support.. FWIW, Carl B.

The picture on the Left is the correct and original. That part has more than likely been superceded to a newer replacement. Nissan supplies the newer part, even if you use the old part number - as long as the newer part supplies the same form, fit and function. Cosmetic details aside. You might - just might - find a New Old Stock {NOS} pair on E-Bay, or you might find very good used replacements. FWIW, Carl B.

This is correct. The throw-out bearing collar has to match the Pressure Plate used. The throw-out bearing is the same 70-83 non-turbo. For the most part today - it is almost impossible to find an OEM spec. 240-Z Pressure Plate. The Nissan replacement parts are 280Z/280ZX Pressure Plates - no matter what you order. FWIW, Carl B.

Hello David: Good to have you here. Your "English" is far better than many of us here in the U.S. and most certainly far better than most in Canada. Did you live in a country, in the past, where English was the standard language? At any rate - good luck with your wood working project. I'll go through some of my files and see if there is anything that would be of use, that you already don't have. regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Gregg: Thanks for letting me know - and please convey my best wishes to everyone! Sounds like you will all have a great time! Drive safe... Carl B.

The shape of the center valance and front corners for the 280Z's are DIFFERENT than the parts for the 240Z.... I do not know if the center section for the 280Z will line up with the mount on the 240-Z. The 280Z has a larger radiator core support and I believe it sits lower in the car... Maybe someone here has been there/done that????? But I've want to know for sure before ordering parts.. FWIW, Carl B.

Also - you always want to check the little rubber hose that runs from the float bowl to the bottom of the carb. This hose needs to be a very high quality formed vinyl construction - and over the years many have been replaced with less expensive, even cheap rubber fuel line. These rubber lines easily kink with age/heat - and restrict fuel flow.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gang: Mr. Shin Yoshikawa will be spending the day with DATSUN Enthusiasts at the Datsun Heritage Museum this coming Saturday - 25 April 2009. Datsun Heritage Museum 41610 Date St., Suite 103 Murrieta, CA 92562 1-951-696-1087 Shin will have plenty of his wonderful Cutaway-Drawings of our Z Cars, as well as models of the Toyota 2000GT along with his book on the Toyota 2000GT. If you have an interest in the 2000GT - Shin's book is a "must have". A bit expensive for some - but the printing/publication/photographs are well worth the price. Here's your chance to get an autographed copy!! All donations will go to support the Datsun Heritage Museum... See Poster below or visit http://DatsunHeritageMuseum.com for all details. You can also download a copy of the DHM News Letter while visiting the sight. FWIW, Carl B.

Sound interesting... hummm http://www.hemmings.com/newsletter/newsletter.html?volume=4&issue=45&id=2195&refer=news&emlid=70721#2195 FWIW, Carl B.

Penetrating oil and gravity: In many cases - I've simply put a little penetrating oil down the strut tube - then hung the Shock Rod in a vise, and let the strut tube hang below over night - about six inches off the floor. By the next morning they have usually broken themselves loose. It's usually not just "rust", so much as a vacuum that sets itself up below the shock valves, or the bottom of the old cartridge and the bottom of the strut tube. If that doesn't do the trick - like Enigma and Arne said - get the slide hammer out... it is usually not a major problem. Note I said "usually" In very few cases, I've had to put a little heat on the lower part of the shock tubes. Good luck, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Great - thanks for the heads-up. I wish that the owner of the 911 and I had been able to spend more time together. Really nice man and very neat car. It was very hard to stay by your car to talk to people about it - and still get around the field to see everything else. Thanks, Carl B.