Carl Beck

Go back to stock springs... What profile 14" tires??? Go to a 70 series and lower the air pressure to factory spec. just thinking outloud... Carl B.

Mike: Here is one that might help... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32233&highlight=fused+jumper FWIW, Carl B.

It goes from the fuel pump in the rear - to a terminal up under the dash - as the Previous Post shows... You have to install a jumper wire between to the two connectors. There are very good pictures in previous threads - just use the Search Function. Yes - on the 72's the fuel pump will be hot when the ignition is on. In the previous threads - different methods of wiring were fully discussed... Find that Thread - and if you have follow on questions Post them to that thread - so we can all see the pictures your working from. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: That "York" reference may apply to the 240Z. The aftermarket kits used the York piston compressors at that point in time. Once the 280Z's started to arrive with Factory or Port Installed A/C they used Hatachi Rotary Compressors - - there were no Air Pumps on the L28's, so the rotary compressors were mounted on the lower left of the engine. FWIW, Carl B.

How it would be registered and titled would depend on a number of things, including which State you title it in. If you took an original 240-Z, that was titled - and swapped all the mechanical's into the Aluminum body - you would retain the original title and registration. Likewise if you adapted/used an older Corvette drive train/suspension etc. In most States changing component parts on your personal vehicle, does not require a title/ nor registration change. Due to changes in the laws related to getting a Title for Custom Built Cars in many States - you could request a "Custom Car Title" as: Manufacturer = "Custom Car " Model Year under these new laws = could be 1970,71,72,73 Year of Manufacture under these new laws = could be 1969,70,71,72,73 With the Custom Car title you may have to get a "Safety Check" by the State Police.. depends upon what State you are in. It could be driven on the streets - but is supposed to be "of limited use"... not daily transportation. FWIW Carl B.

"IF" that's a VZ decal in the quarter window. "IF" - if the hub caps on that Z are correct for that car - then it would be a 71 Model Year. "IF" that is the case it could be one of our missing Vintage Z's... HLS30 23537. That or it is a picture of HLS30 40904 before or after the pictures with the slotted mags. I don't recall seeing a front license plate like that on 40904.... The only "Red" 1971 VZ that we know of is #40904 and the only 1971 VZ still missing is #23537. FWIW, Carl B.

For the most part A/C was installed by Nissan {actually DAS} at the Port in 78. FWIW, Carl B.

I haven't used that product - Minwax Antique Maple Stain..... however looking at the overall color on the wheel at this point, I believe you will be happy with the result. I think it will accentuate the color... Stain only the bad side - if you want to see it before you do the entire wheel... Carl B.

Hi Roger: I'd say that the short answer is "Yes".... but I'd suggest that the steps go: 1. Strip the car to a bare shell. Media blast the entire body - if that is what you have decided to do. This has the advantage of making any previous body work visible 2. With a bare metal shell - clean it down and apply an epoxy primer. You want to do that as soon as possible after media blasting to prevent flash rust on the sheet-metal. Many shops clean the bare metal with Ospho, then actually rinse it off with water, and blow it dry. The Ospho will etch the bare metal, and protect it from the rinse water.. just blow it dry. Then apply the epoxy primer. All metal patching can then be done, then re-coat the metal where necessary with the epoxy primer. Then do any body work that needs fillers like bondo right over the top of the epoxy primer.. Here you want to work the metal such that only very thin coast of fillers are needed. 3. Yes - paint the engine compartment, door and deck jams, and the interior etc. 4. Assemble the car to the extent that you have the doors, hood, rear deck lid and fenders all properly lined up - - - 5. Apply the top coat of paint to the entire car. Professional shops with great painters, wonderful paint booths and lots of experience - can "Panel Paint" the parts then assemble... but using that method it is easy to have variations in the color, not to mention gaining nicks in the paint ... So Panel Painting is not a good choice for the do-it-yourself'ers. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes. The shear strength of the bolt/stud are far above weight of the engine/tranny. Just be sure you have about a half inch threaded into the block. I usually remove the original bolt/stud and use one about a half inch or more longer - just so I have room for the chain link and washers. FWIW Carl B.

You use the same bolts/studs that used to hold the Factory lifting lugs - just bolt the chain there, using large washers on top of the chain link. Bolt the two front and two rear chains on your Load Leveler together if you have too. So you will have one connection at the Left front of the engine and one at the right rear.

would be great if someone took a video camera along - so we could all enjoy the ride! FWIW, Carl B.

Perhaps DeskTop Screen's could all be put in one Directory or File...so they could be located and downloaded as a group. We've had a lot of really great images Posted throughout several Threads.. Just a thought.. FWIW, Carl B.

$550.00 is "reasonable" if it's an NOS part and not damaged. I also agree with ConchZ.. if yours is in pretty decent shape, and if you have a good facility near you - then the rechromed bumpers can look better than new. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ben: Welcome to the group and the Classic Z Car world. Lots of helpful people here and I'm sure you will enjoy your experience with the 240-Z. 12 years with Ford... hummm... I may have to pick your brain. I have a 91 Super Coupe with 9K miles - and the Radio (Boise Sound System) and Odometer both stopped working at the same time. Really odd... but so far I haven't found anything that ties them together... Maybe an off-line discussion there... Post some pictures of your Z when you get a chance and fill in a little more details... mileage etc. That would give us a better over-all idea of the condition of the S.U.'s and the distributor... Should we guess that the original Flat Top's have been replaced with the earlier S.U.'s?? FWIW, Carl B.

Was high school in the "70's" or just last year? At any rate, glad to hear you finally got your Z, I'm sure you will enjoy owning it. If you have been here for a while, you already know that we want to see pictures!! and hear your "Z Car Story".... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Zak: The hard line for the 73 is pre-formed, and it is made to fit the inlet on the 73 wheel cylinder. Off hand, I can't remember the routing of the hard line... I do know that some time ago the 70/72 rear wheel cylinders were NLA - and the only way to get replacements was to use the 73 wheel cylinders with the 73 hard lines. Seems to me that the last time I tried to order the hard lines one or the other side for 73 was NLA also... FWIW, Carl B.

The short answer is "Yes". If you are going to use a stain, you have to get the original top finish off. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes, you want the rubber warm. The Installer that did mine, used a spray bottle with soapy water as a lubricant. He also had a couple of nylon tools. One had a rounded point, and the other had a flat blade with rounded edges. Kind of reminded me of Tire Iron's only very small. Took him every bit of six minutes to put the metal trim in... Of course he has most likley done hundreds if not thousands over the years... I remember seeing the special tools advertised somewhere.. you might want to google it... FWIW, Carl B.

If the part numbers on the box - end with N3001 then they are for a 1973 Model Year car {10/72 forward}. To use them you would need to get the hard brake line for the 73 Model Year for the back of the drum... FWIW, Carl B.

With gas prices on the way UP - I'd Put $3,695.00 on the window. 22 is way too cheap for a small pick-up with 56K miles... FWIW, Carl B.

"Jewelry"..???? Agree - that is a great picture.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hello cc2. Welcome to the group. It is rare that a 240-Z stays in the same family for 36 years!! Glad to hear that you were able to retrieve it from Texas. V8 swaps into the early Z's are pretty popular, but for the most part they are Chevy based. So it will be interesting to see how the Mopar works out for you. Any plans to run Hill Climbs with it?... You are in the right part of the Country... Looking forward to seeing some pictures - good luck, FWIW, Carl B.

I completely agree with Steve. This 280Z is worth twice the asking price - as it sits. If it were anywhere close to me, I'd grab it in a heartbeat.... FWIW, Carl B.

See: http://ZHome.com/Classic/240ZFloorboards/ChrisFloorboards.htm This may help.. FWIW, Carl B.