Carl Beck

Hi Art: Lots of guys have been running triple side drafts for years with no return line. I believe the reason is that Cannon supplied the fittings, that did not accommodate a return line - so the Z owners just used that was there. Not the best set-up, but it usually works. They also usually run an electric pump with a fuel pressure regulator. For the most part the return line in the OEM system is there to keep the fuel moving/circulating and thus cooler than it would be if left standing still in the lines close to the engine. Both the mechanical and electric pumps have predetermined upper pressure limits - that is to say they put out 3 to 4 psi - at which they either stop pumping (electric) or some physical restriction stops the output of more fuel. I'm sure you are old enough to remember that most cars in the 50's and 60's had no fuel return lines.:-) In either case the first thing to do is measure the fuel line pressure at the carb.'s - - - if you are getting excessive pressure (6+ psi) - it's possible some PO has installed an electric pump that's output is higher than needed by the S.U.'s, or it's possible that the electric pump is not putting out enough fuel because the filters in it are clogging up.. I'm not positive - but as I recall - the OEM electric pumps on the 73's only ran on the START position of the ignition - then when the engine was running the mechanical pump actually supplied the fuel. That would explain why the PO "jumped" the electric pump to pressurize the fuel line prior to starting - it would take less cranking on the START position to keep the electric pump running. That is "IF" the car still has its OEM electric and mechanical pumps in place.... If some PO has installed an aftermarket electric pump and wired it to run all the time - then it should run any time the key is ON.. (easy enough to check).. All the above said - the poor running condition may have nothing to do with not having a return line. Could be that the car sat, un-used back East for a prolonged period - and now you are really dealing with varnish and rust in the tank, or in the fuel filters - at the pump, the in-line filter, or at the carb.s. Could be a weak pump as well. I do agree that it is important to have a return line on the 240-Z's running the S.U.'s - it keeps the fuel cooler and it's part of the evaporative emission controls... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Filipe: Since you used two pictures of my white 72 240-Z on Page 4 of that discussion forum... I'm hoping you will at least translate the captions related to them {vinyl top and side stripes}... How did you ever find those pictures? You have an amazing restoration project there... You'll have to tell us far more about it. regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Hi Rex: If you got the instruction sheet, can you read it? :-) Can you Post a picture of the Parts Number Labels? Just wondering what colors are on them. Carl B.

Doug: I take it that you want the correct battery size - because you are using the OEM battery hold down on top of it. (yes/no?) If that is the case - then take the OEM Battery hold down (that sits on top the battery) with you when you shop for a battery. Todays "Group 24" may or may not be the exact identical size as they were in the 1970's... Secondly many battery manufacturers have moved the original position of the battery terminal posts - so they now sit closer to the middle of the battery (for a more "universal" fit and broader application). This can be a problem with the OEM battery cables - as they can come into contact with the metal battery hold down. If you look at the OEM battery hold down - that sits on top the battery - you will see that it is "notched" out where the battery terminal posts are originally - so that the battery cable terminal will not come into contact with the metal frame... Additionally - the battery terminal Posts are today a slightly different size than they used to be. The difference in size between the + and - posts have also been changed. Sometimes the old Cable Terminals will not tighten down correctly on the newer design battery terminal posts... The last time I looked - Interstate built the only Group 24 that still was a "close fit".. but it wasn't perfect. I've switched to using the Optima's... they don't fit perfectly either, but they don't leak battery acid down on your frame rails either... FWIW, Carl B.

I found a brand new 1996 300ZX TT for a friend at a Dealer in Texas...in 1998. There were still a few around the country then. FWIW, Carl B.

Put another way - you usually do not hear the starter relay click - because at the same instant you hear the starter solenoid kick the starter in.. or try too. So if you hear the relay, it's usually OK. The first thing to do is remove and clean the battery terminals. Just because they might look good on visual inspection - doesn't mean they are. So take them off, clean the terminals on the cables and the battery until you see clean shiny lead. Next check the battery water and then put the battery on a charger and make sure it is fully charged. Next reattach the terminals and make sure they are tight and making solid contact. If at that point the starter will not turn over - it's time to pull the starter and take it to be checked... Most major auto parts stores can do that for you.... call a few in your area before going... FWIW, Carl B.

No - you need Ported vacuum to run the vacuum advance. When you go to WOT manifold vacuum drops... where vacuum at the intake ports on a carb. increases. You would have to disconnect the vacuum advance on the 77 Z dizzy - and you need about 17 degrees initial timing. Webers need lots of initial timing off the line - because of the rich mixture supplied by the accelerator pumps... so something between 15 and 17 degrees initial - then you want a total of about 32/33 degrees all in by 2800 to 3000 RPM. Anything above 32 degrees and I'd bet you'll lose hp - but you have to put it on a dyno to know for sure. To re-curve either distributor you have to make adjustment to the mechanical advance weights and/or springs. Any good automotive electric shop will have a Sun Distributor Machine and they can re-curve the distributor timing for you. All of this also depends on the quality of fuel the Federal Government is telling the gas companies they have to sell in your area... It worked for me... Carl B.

Strikes me as priced too low... I'd think any MG fan would hit the buy-it-now.... Carl B.

Is this some kind of secret?? I'm always interested in observations related to collectibe cars for sale. Carl B.

It sounds like you need to "network" in the old fashion way - get out in the physical world and meet some fellow car nuts... Go to as many local car shows or meets as possible in your area. Walk around and talk to the guys there with car - street rods, customs all the better. As them for recommendations for a shop that will paint your car, and one that has an owner that is good to work with... Take a note pad and write things down - - chances are you'll see one or two names pop up as "recommended shops".. be sure to get the names of the people giving the recommendations. The visit a couple of the recommended shops - and tell them who sent you. This does two important things. First it lets the shop owner know he has happy customers out there sending him more work: and second it reminds him that the quality of his work and his ability to work with his customers - is what is important to him... He's bound to keep that in mind when dealing with you too... BTW - My body shop used PPG DBU on my White 72 m with a couple coats of high quality clear- It was painted several years ago - and I've been very happy with the results.. I also agree that it is far better to stick with higher quality materials that your body shop likes to use.. "Higher Quality" does not mean insane retail prices either. When selecting the materials - it's important to let the body shop know how the car will be cared for in the future. One paint system might be far better than another if the car is going to be parked outside. Likewise other options might be selected if the car is going to be strictly a week-end pleasure driver and kept most of it's future life in the garage.. One important aspect of "Quality" has to to do with how well the product meets your needs. Paying for features or benefits that you won't need or use, is simply a waste. On the other hand, failing to to address your "real" needs is negligence you'll pay for again and again... FWIW, Carl B.

Stock is 15mm or 0.59 inch... FWIW Carl B.

Hi Dan: Would that happen to be an L20A, L24 Series Engine Manual? Carl B.

Better still - Post the engine serial number. It's on the side of the block, just below the #5/6 spark plugs... There are two pads cast in the block - and the engine serial number will be stamped into them...

Personally - I wouldn't trust any fracture in a cast iron part... far easier to replace it now... FWIW, Carl B.

I had outlined white letters on my metallic blue Z since the mid 70's. Goodyear GT's... I replaced them with blackwalls a couple of years ago - and the car hasn't looked right to me since. To my tastes the solid white letters are toooo much... to each his own, Carl B.

That is really funny.... I'd think that "painting" over them is the red neck part.... Carl B.

Hi E. My personal experience would differ from yours it seems. Perhaps it depends on who is painting the car and what materials they are using and of course their experience. I had a 1970 SS396 El Camino painted a metallic silver (original color).. The body man I used has had too many National Show Wining Cars to count -- and he panel painted the car. I owned it for 10 years and it looked as perfect at year 10 as it did on day 1. You can see it featured in several books about Chevell's and Chevy Trucks. It was painted with Diamount (sp?) I do agree that you let the body man do what he wants - - but on the other hand it is possible to pick a body man that knows how to panel paint a car; and that can orient the parts in the paint booth properly. Personally - I think the overall answer to the original question averages out to be around $5K for work that is at least OEM quality, done to a schedule that one can live with. (keeping in mind that the 240-Z's were not "perfect" to begin with). FWIW, Carl B.

Don't be fooled into thinking that just because an electric arc welder will run on "110" volts... that you can plug it in anywhere you have 110. That's not the case, you need 110 on a 30 Amp circuit, or you'll be blowing the circuit breakers... Most household outlets are on 15 or 20 Amp circuits... and it takes heavier wire and heavier outlets for 30 Amp service. IMHO the 220 volt set up's from Miller or Lincoln are the only way to go - and you can plan $600.00 to $800.00 by the time it's all said and done, when buying a new one. You need a really good helmet, gas supply and and other small tools... Make perfect sense to buy used - it saves sales taxes and shipping in addition to depreciation on the equipment. Just be sure you buy really good used equipment. Personally - I'd recommend buying a small portable gas welding set up FIRST. Far more useful to the average home mechanic, and they are only $200.00 to $250.00 when on sale.. Unless you are planning to do a lot of thin sheet metal welding - the arc welders aren't much good for anything else. FWIW, Carl B.

OK you guys - fill us all in please. I remember seeing that Z - was it on E-bay? or offered locally when someone else was looking?.... Give us the when, where, why, who, and how... I happen to like the white 240-Z's... Carl B.

Quote from Business Week, April 7, 1973: - Begin Quote - Puffing continuously on Kent cigarettes, a tast he acquired on a visit to the U.S. ten years ago, he describes himself as "just an element in the management of the company". But subordinates do not take such a casual view. Secretaries bow almost to the floor in his presence, uniformed showroom employees accord him a snappy salute, and even some Nissan directors cringe in his imposing, black suited presence. "Our President is like Henry Ford, a very strong man", says a Nissan employee. Kawamata delights in picking English names for Nissan's cars and takes credit for the Violet, Cedric, Bluebird and Fairlady models. The last one occurred to Kawamata after he had seen the Broadway musical, My Fair Lady. The Violet, he says, was picked because of its "esthetic character". He asks; "When you hear the name Violet, doesn't this create an image of loveliness?" Naming autos represents "my sentimental side", says a chucking Kawamata. But the names change when the cars go into the export market. Nissan's marketing experts fear that such effeminate names would never make it abroad. In the U.S. for example the Fairlady becomes the Datsun 240Z and the Bluebird becomes the Datsun 610. - end quote - FWIW, Carl B.

Your 74 260 has an R180 rear-end Your Parts car has an R200 rear-end The R200 is larger and has larger mounting bolts, so the holes in the mustache bar are larger. You order new rubbers for your 74 if you want to keep the R180.

What is surprising - is that a speciality company can't deal with old samples - an correct as necessary. Sounds like you need to find another supplier or two to check with. These parts are just too simple... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Art: My copy arrived today in Clearwater, FL 33764-6669 regards, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Vin ?????

I have a lot of country music loaded on my iPod... it makes the highway miles fly by...."if you know what I mean"... Will - Can't Get No "SATISFACTION" - was written in Clearwater, FL ...although at the Fort Harrison Hotel....but a Holliday Inn Express is close... FWIW, Carl B.