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Yes the p-90a can make great HP numbers, yes it can be rebuilt when a lifter goes bad, but I am not paying for it...And BTW if you can figure out how to get it to make power after 6k rpm.....let me know....there are quite a few engineers that cant solve that one.

Just gotta love Salvage Yards. I just picked up a 3.54:1 diff, And all four strut housings in great shape for $260. Now the wife will stop whining about the harsh ride from the coil-overs....seemed like a good thing to do at the time but now that she is pregnant with our first little one I no longer have the time to race. Sooooo, we are putting oem length struts back in with tokiko blue shocks and some older mullholland springs I have had laying around for years. Back to being a daily driver instead of a track car.

The P-90a is the later head with hydraulic lifters...the head you want is the earlier P-90

www.racetep.com They have the complete weber kit...I would suggest with a 3L to get their 40DCOE kit with the TWM manifold. Really dont know how much HP you will gain as I do not know the full particulars of your engine set-up and/or how much HP you are making now. As for cons....they can be very tricky to tune to get the big three all right....driveability, Top End HP, and Fuel Mileage...but it can be done...just very tricky...it is almost a black art.

2Many....you are corect the 280 housings are larger diameter....as for the extra length of the housing.....it is negligable when using aftermarket supplied gland nut...the extra slack is taken up with the gland nut.

Take the valve cover off and phyisicaly manipulate the fuel pump arm to prime the bowls....it take quite a bit more than a few turns to fill empty bowls.

Actually...Koni is no selling their strut inserts as being for 70-78 vehicles. All with the same part number...so yes struts for a 240 will fit into a 260 2+2....as for springs...you definitely need to be aplication specific because of the increased weight of a 260 2+2

Dont think that would be a great idea....CR would be 7.62:1 and you would have the crappy hydraulic lifters.

The factory cast monifold is just as bad about giving off heat as a header is...and guess what...when cast iron gets real hot it warps alot. I am running a MSA 6-1 ceramic coated with a custom mandrel bent 2.5 in stainless and a borla mufler in the factory location. Sounds great and it really keeps the heat down. BTW the Arizona Z-car header is the same one MSA sells. I do not know who makes it but I do know it was designed on an engine dyno.....once mounted in a car with new engine and tranny mounts....it requires a special bend after the colector to clear the tranny cross member.

Actually that balance tube was used on euro 240-260 Z's. It is still listed in the Nismo books as a race part.

:finger:Has no one learned yet....never sidestep the clutch....get it moving first ...jus a little...then light em up

You are correct..the interiors were vynle and plastic

I believe you can get a poly spacer from MSA....of course you could just use the identical steering bearing in the reasr as well.

Ai'nt that the truth...frikking hilarious

Here is something that most people do not realise. The HT voltage is so high that it does not travel down the plug wire as electricity but rather as a magnetic field, impervious to resistance, Therefore It is sensless to "waste" money on expensive "low" resistance plug wires. Rather it is more important that the wires have good EMI shielding. The NGK wires are the best OEM wire...other than the magnecor wires that come on ferraris. Check out magnecor.com. Lots of good info there...even a plug from one manufacturer to another...Magnecor stating that NGK wires had good emi properties.

I refuse to use any plug wire other than NGK.

The mount damper...comonly called a strut bearing...houses a steel sealed bearing in front. Since the damper is identical front to rear they had to put a rubber spacer in the rears....theese need to be replaced with a poly spacer or machined aluminum when you replace the rear strut inserts

I would recomend the Ground Control set-up....1 in bar is all that is needed in a 240 unless you have a heavier v-8 conversion.

St Elmos Fire...Silver 240 in front of the bar

Step one: order new cardboard glove box. Step two: destroy old glovebox while trying to remove it to gain access to the clock. Step three:remove clock step four: re-install/replace clock Step five: install new glovebox that you had the forsight to pre order before replacing clock.

In the Nissan service manual...it lists Castrol 20wt as the primary and Castrol 10w30 as an alternate oil. Just some food for thought.

When rebuilding the fuse boxes...I remove the box...then use a very small drill bit and drill out all of the rivets holding the fuse clips in. Re-solder the clips to the contacts on the back of the fuse block (once you have it in you hand you will see what I am talking about.) For a severely melted box..ie clips hanging in air...I use two part "Double Bubble" epoxy to rebuild it. Also...clean and or replace ALL elec. contacts on the car.....results in much cooler fuse blocks

Clean them with a citrus based cleaner...then hand polish with a jewlers rouge. I use eagle one brand mag polish.