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Could br the tach itself......power for the coil feeds thru the tach first on the 240's...it uses a reluctance pickup method to figure rpm.

You have to use an open ended wrench, that is the only way

It is real simple folks...Serial Number was stamped on a chassis when production began....prod date was the date it "Actually" rolled off the line. Now as for series one vs two...if it has a cigar lighter in the dash it is a series two...no questions asked...if the cigar lighter and ash tray cover the fuse box it is a series one....it all has to do with the chassis change to facilitate the later "type B" tranny. Series one should have hatch vents and 240 c pillar emblems, series two should have no hatch vents and vent panels on the c pillar. But mind you I had a 71 with "A" type tranny no hatch vents, and vents on the c pillar.....kinda like lets test the vent theory before we finish the new console design for the later tranny

I would not recomend trying to "pin" the mech advance cams.....but I will tell you that you want around 33-35 degrees total advance at 3k rpm.

I am not sure on that one....

I have seen where a guy stuffed a 75 fuel tank under his 240....the only other options are to get a 75 tank and a 240 tank and have the baffles in the 75 tank relocated to the new 240 tank the other is a resevoir of sorts...never looked into it much but you basically have to use two fuel pump, one to fill the resevoir and the other to provie the final fuel pressure. Talk with someone at SDS or TWM or TopEnd ( www.racetep.com ) I am sure they have a better answer for the problem...me I just always kept the tank better than half full, and BTW I was meaning a really sharp / hard right hand turn, like hauling arse out of the parking lot turn.

I have done this conversion before...many times...but we always used a 2.8L w n-42 head for the conversion. The only negative aspect is that if you corner real hard to the right with less than 1/3 tank of gas the fuel pump will starve and the engine will die. Check out my web site at www.geocities.com/superb60ce to see photos of a converted 72 240Z

These are the formula I have Throttle bore = (sq root of (dicplacement per cyl in cc X max rpm / 1000)) X 0.82 Main Venturi = (sq root of (dicplacement per cyl in cc X max rpm / 1000)) X 0.65 Main Jet = main venturi X 0.04 Air corrector = Main jet + 0.20 These of course are "begining" numbers...final tuning and cam selection will refine the process

Thanks for the thumbs up.....spent quite a few hours last night updating it, I think it had been over 2 years or so.....any other takers gonna take a look and give me some feedback??? www.geocities.com/superb60ce

Call Top End Performance, www.racetep.com they have complete weber kits, manifolds, linkage, fuel pumps, halmeters etc. BTW specify to them that the manifold and the mount kit need to be for 45's as well. They will help ya' out.....also BTW I do stand corrected......if you have that much head porting you could use the 45's....just be carefull not to overrev the motor, as it is gonna be a free spinner at the top end.

Just to let ya'll know I have finally, after two years of neglect, updated my website. take a peek and give me some feedback. www.geocities.com/superb60ce

ROFL ROFL

Basically All I am saying is the only advantage to running 45's over 40's is if you need very large venturi's, and you dont need very large venturi's unless you are making a ton of HP at a very high rpm...BTW a very high rpm for a nissan I-6 is 8k rpm and it decreases with an increase in stroke. Anyone who builds engines will tell you that HP is made in the head....I seriously doubt that his head is ported in a manner that would require the use of 45's....if it is I will stand corrected, but the amount of porting I am talking about would cost as much if not more than the engine itself. A large enough cam may need 45's, but that is negated because of the enormous stroke of the LD28 crank. Rebello does know engines, so does Sunbelt, so does Honsowetz, and so does Gene Crowe...and a little known company in England called Janspeed. (They used to do some really trick heads). Oh I better just get off this soap box before I get a headache. BTW the 40's and 45's cost the same.

Dreco...go ahead and use the 45's....I think they will come with 36mm chokes...worse case it is too much and you can choke them down some more...I was mainly concerned with port matching....but apparently Rebello is not..oh well.

I ran a 2.8 with a trick head and 40DCOE with 33mm chokes....had a devil of a time geting good driveability with it....I would suggest 40's and 33mm chokes on a 3l and get it proffesionaly tuned from there.....check out www.racetep.com give them a call and talk with them about it. I seriously doubt that your head is ported to 45mm, and I know the off the shelf TWM intakes are bored to 40mm....port matching will get you more HP in the useable range than a over-carbed engine will.

If you have Su carbs ther is no sense in "pumping" the gas pedal...there are no accel jets...my z starts about the same way...turn the key..let the fuel pump run a bit...pull the chokes, crank her over till she fires...let her warm up a bit.. then smoothness...once warm starts with the bump of the key. Any if I remember right that is the same way dad's Z was in the 70's

...Newer Webster: pigeon..Rat with wings...

check your PM

I would not think so...they are tempered to the static shape...they should be fine.

Thats hilarious....I only go over there in the Z....was just there a couple of weeks ago....actually I have the Ground Control street prepared camber plates. They are a really slick set-up....just very rough ride...dont want to induce early labor on my wife.

I say 40's for the fact that the TWM manifold is bored to 40mm....to the fact that the intake ports are about 40mm, and to the fact that a 3litre is a stroker motor that is best suited to making gobs of bottom end torque....with 40's it will be olot easier to get 2 of the big 3 knockedout....driveability...aka bottom end torque, and fuel mileage....then it is just a matter of main jet selection to get the top end power.....gotta remember that the motors they were hanging 45's and 50's off of in the 70's were really "over carburated" and were turning around 8-9k rpm all the time. Give me some specific numbers on your engine..ie total displacement and I can crunch some numbers and get you a pretty good ballpark setup.

A few year ago Scott Bruning of Z-Therapy fame had a MIT engineering student do a study of 240Z factory velocity stacks VS all other aftermarket stacks.....the factory stack flowed more air at a higher velocity than all the others....just food for thought.

I drove a 71 240z through my college years....mind you it was only 17 years old at the time, but if it is in decent shape when you buy it and you are halfway mechanicaly inclined....they can be very easy to maintain and very reliable

Ahh we considered this....I am running 150lb fronts with 175lb rears......cant get much softer than that.....the real problem is the solid aluminum block camber plates.....there is absolutely no rubber in my suspension...that is the real problem......besides...I am going to hang on to the coilovers and camberplates....a swap back in a few years would be rather simple.

Not a big NASCAR fan, but they use a very discriptive term.....Understeer is PUSH...oversteer is LOOSE