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Help Z Playing up


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Ok well tonight I wanted to drive the car for the first time in a month probably.

Last time I had a problem it was with the module on the distrubtor and caused all sorts of headaches.(electronic distributor).

Today i cranked her over took a few more turns than normal and coughed to life revving pretty hard.

Then she started spluttering and i was tapping the throttle and keeping her going I was pulling out the drive and it started to get a bit worse then i smelt a fuel like smell decided nup not going anywhere popped the hood and found fuel leaking where the hose connects to the fuel pump(mechanical). Fine that's a leaky hose most likely, that's not it look at the distributor and she's playing games saying im doing 4000rpm when it's barely idling.

I put her back in the garage and switch it off.

Tighten the hose to see if it will leak again still a bit confused.

Try to turn the key once more and nothing no click no crank not lights everything electrical is dead.

Really unsure what's going on :(.

Any ideas fuses look ok. The car was running ok before nothing major was gonna replace head with new e88 with large cam but with the car running how she is a bit lost as to what to do.

The hoses arn't 30 years old either there about 10 years tops.

I can fix a fuel leak.


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My first guess would be a wiring issue somewhere between the dizzy and the coil possibly.. the abnormal tach reading points to an electrical problem somewhere in that area since that's where your tach picks up its signal.:ermm: But then, I'd be just guessing since electical problems stump me worse than any...

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Originally posted by Gav240z

Ok well tonight I wanted to drive the car for the first time in a month probably.


Maybe she overheard you talking about roasting her tires and videotaping the heinous act for the gratuitous pleasure of your friends and aquaintances. :( :cross-eye :devious:

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I think you have a couple of seperate problems which have occured at the same time.

To solve you no click, no nothing, my best advice is to check your baterry terminals.

I had a similar problem last night when I left work, although now I know what the "problem "is as it's happened many times to me.

I have fitted a screw time battery cuttoff switch and every time it's been the contact. All I need to do is unscrew the switch nut, clean[sand] both sides and replace.

Solve this problem first, then look at you next problem.

Unfortunatly, I have no experiance with electronic ignition, but a educated guess is a problem with the module?

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Yes Bambi your probably right she probably heard about me going to video tape the hidious act :).

I think you all have a few good suggestions since it was 1pm at night i didn't do much problem solving had a look at the coil connections and everything.

It could be a problem wth the battery terminal i replaced the negative connection recently because it had been overtightened and cracked the connection so i thought i'd replace before it gave grief problem was the auto shop i go to only had 1 type made of cheap $h!t metal coated in some pretend gold coating. I couldn't get them to fit properly without having to tighten very hard and

that caused it to snap. therefore it could be snapped and hanging off i haven't checked but it did cross my mind last night.

What exactly do fuseable links do? I was thinking these could be the problem but i really don't know much about those. As i say fuses are all normal.

I guess i shouldn't rule out the tacho being the cause but even in my old 260z where it wasn't working at all it still allowed the car to run. I have a spare but the hassle to remove and fit again is well a hassle so i'll try other stuff first.

I hope it's not the module cause I don't want another second hand one but a new one here in AUS is $800 :(.

I know that the fuel leak is another issue just from the way the car was acting but I guess it's time to replace that hose.

Anyway more investigation and we will see in the mean time any suggestions appreciated. :D

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New update.

I checked battery terminal but found it seemed ok in terms of contact even if it is cracked.

I started the car expecting it not to start after last night. To my suprise it cranked over very roughly tried adjusting electrical timing and nothing if anything adjusting it makes it worse.

I get a lot of dark smoke as if a rich condition which means most likely poor ignition thinking either coil or module again.

Anyone know if the distributor and coil not working properly would have an effect on not being able to crank over the motor even without spark?

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Problem solved.

Turned out to be a number of things all at once.

First was the fuel leak I believe caused by the removal of the intake manifold recently I think it caused the fuel hoses to get streched a bit and come slightly loose so I tightened them up was leaking in more than one place :finger: .

The next problem the reason the car stopped running lights went off and tacho went silly. The earth lead to battery terminal was cracked causing poor connection. I knew it was cheap when i bought it. How do I know well i started car again today first time fires over as usual. Then stopped after it was running like crap, went to start again no go, played with battery terminals and voila fires up again.

So need new uncracked terminal.

Finally the roughness backfire and other carry on can be attributed to a rich condition. I think the carbs seats are worn causing a rich idle and fouling up the plugs.

I will get the car professionally tuned when new engine head goes on.

Also the tappets are out of adjustment but no point adjusting them when im changing engine head soon.

Thanks all for the advice. It's always something small. :cheeky:

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