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The steering coupler also helped again with the vibration.. I have the rear wheel bearings in house now, still waiting for the axles with the new u-joints to arrive this week to replace. Hopefully that does alot

here video footage, there's several on youtube

Looking at the picture above there's something wrong with the carbs or the intake must be leaking somewhere. The spark plugs should all color about the same. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I replaced the old and tired steering coupler today. ( old vs new ).

I would say yes, it's still an L series engine. But not sure. We need the experts on here

Fred, maybe something like this ? Spec Clutch Kit Stage 2 Fit Nissan Datsun 240Z 260z | eBay

I would fix that header leak first. Set valve clearance also, set timing to around 15 degrees before tdc with vacuum advance disconnected. You should not mess with the spark plug gap, I did that last time, and the engine ran really bad, then I checked the manual and it says around 0.8 that's the standard factory gap. Leave the gap as it is out of the box don't mess with it. I would recommend B6ES not BPR6ES as the manual recommends. I've found the standard plugs run better. Also watch if the plug says made in Japan ( usually black letters ) or made in France ( blue letters ), you will need the made in Japan, somehow I found problems with the made in France ones. I found there's not much to adjust to SU's, the main mixture screw is the most important, if you can't get them right to need to either be rebuild or changed with another good working pair. I had the same problem with mine, they where just worn out, causing vacuum leak on the butterfly shaft also.

That's alot of snow.. my dad told me whe had snow that high in the past here, but haven't seen it yet in my lifetime.

There's many things that are not original on that 260z including the paint job and ugly spoiler.. Looks indeed like the've done nothing with it, just re-selling it for a slight profit.

Hot pressure wash it up on a bridge, let it dry and paint up the rusted parts as much as you can. I wouldn't use acids.

It's not so long ago I painted the parts of my suspension but the front end is allready showing surface rust on some parts due the weather conditions right now. It's a constant fight against the elements I tell ya... :knockedou

Sorry for you guys there in the US ! Seems the cold really got a grip there.. Here in the Netherlands we have had no snow so far, very mild weather average 5 to 8c.. but who knows we might still get cold and snow..

Nice work there E-tek, keep going it will be a whole car again soon

Your right didn't even read they put an L28 in there in the late 70's !

Datsun Z Series 240Z Series 1 | eBay

Color looks alot like mine even the wheels.., is this a Nissan paint no ? Cool 260z ! If you like to have the vintage wiper blades look here, they can send over the pond: Contact PHC Parts ruitenwissers voor klassiekers en oldtimers

Thanks for that info Chas, if it will leak I'll order that gasket. So far I haven't seen anything leaking. Now 2 days ago I went to that wheel repair shop, and they made spacers for the front wheels, the rear wheels they couldn't do, but said they center enough on the bolts.. Okay anyhow I went back home, and the vibration issue was alot less..maybe 50% less. So again an improvement.. but now I could feel other issues. When driving 50 mph in 4th gear if I go easy on the throttle there's no vibration, but when I hit the throttle there it is.. So again I checked at home and found the rear wheel bearings to have play. So I'm going to replace these aswell then since they are old.. Also to be sure I ordered the driveshaft and the two half shafts with the u-joints rebuilded from Ebay, so I can swap them out aswell ( and rebuild the current ones later on as a spare set ), these must be tired also. If those 2 things are done, I must have changed everything on the undercarriage and driveline as far as I know. Hope it's going to help with the small vibration that's left.

Very much thanks to club members here for your support ! I noticed the differential was leaking a bit, so yesterday morning I checked the gasket from the cover, and it was almost gone ( from age ) , so I put some Winss black gasket maker ( liquid gasket ) on it, and now it's dry Don't want it to be leaking and killing this differential as well.. For other people who want to change the gasket without removing the differential: take out the 2 studs that hold the differential to the mustache bar. ( support the diff ) Release the mustache bar from the mounts and drop it a bit.. now you can take off the cover. Coming Tuesday I will be going to a wheel repair shop and have them check the vibration issue..

Before you did a rebuild on the carbs, did it drive then ?

Got late last night..but the differential from Leon is on ! I'd say the whine is gone.. there's some noise left, but I think that's because there's almost no sound insulation on the inside. But I can hear the radio again ! Also there's no more clunk when going in reverse

Got some time to install the radio.. And a small video View My Video

A small update, the differential from LeonV finally arrived. I will try to mount it this week. Also I bought a classic Datsun Clarion ( JDM ? ) radio, and everything still works

This stuff is amazing on almost anything, see how for instance tar gets removed easily...

No wet floors so far..

Like this ? Datsun 240Z Rear Bumper 1970 1974 | eBay I could smooth out the existing one then and let it rechrome, that's cheaper.. I noticed the US version doesn't have the holes on top for the license plate light, but does have holes on the back for those strips, which I don't have on the Dutch version here.. so it's the best of both worlds