kickstand80

I was assuming that since your parts car was a ZX so was your driver. Yea you are going to have issues. I have a 77 engine in my garage (a own 3 ZX cars) and if you would like the exhaust manifold, pay for shipping and its yours. I am in North Dakota. Maybe we ca do some trading. Where are you located?

Do want to drag race the 1/8 mile, or do you want top end/low rpm at hi way speed

Keep everything from the parts car! Parts are hard and expensive to find. Gut the interior, especially if its the same color as your car. Gut the HVAC, there is a resistor pack for blower speed that is mounted to the blower housing that is impossible to find if yours dies. You cant get the vacuum motors, that control where the air flows from the dash. Keep all the gauges. Keep the weather strip that is on the doors. It is NLA and no one makes the stuff yet. Pull it all and put it in totes. Keep the outside mirrors for when yours dont work anymore. Keep the steering column cover and all of the wiper/headlight/curze control/ blinker stuff that is in the column cover. Keep all of the control modules that are under the carpet. Keep the curze control actuator/cable that is in the engine bay. Keep the engine and all of the electronics. Keep the distributor. Pull the EFI wire harness and put it away. Keep the ECU. Keep the door glass. IF the windshield is good try and get it out and keep it (you cant get a new replacement). $^!# just keep the entire car if you can. There is so much that you cant get anymore!!!! I would go back to a stock exhaust manifold and skip the header. The manifold off the spare car will be the same. The O2 sensor that you installed will not help the performance of the car. The ECU is designed for a narrow band O2 sensor. The ECU wont know what do do with the signal from a wide band Sensor. The car will run without the O2 sensor connected. The O2 sensor has a very small part in the ECU calculation for fuel. Get a correct sensor The screws on the AFM that you adjusted are for air/Fuel ratio at idle only. Places that are overlooked for vacuum leaks are dipstick, oil filler cap, Power brake booster, vacuum advance canister (if the diaphragm is bad) and the PCV system.

I still have and sell the repair kits for the breaker plates in the matchbox distributors

I still have and sell the repair kits

I still have and sell the repair kits

I have one that had a rub spot that caused the flapper to bind. I was able to use sand paper on the body to correct this. As I recall this AFM came from a 1976 car that had been sitting in a farm field for almost 20 years.

Nissan Stanza FPR has very close specs to the 280zx

If you have popping going on then you have something really out of spec. If everything is working as it should, there will be no lean popping. I have considered removing my cylinder head temp sensor and using a variable potentiometer like this: https://zcardepot.com/products/variable-resistor-for-fuel-injection-mod-280z-280zx That way you go rich to start the car and lean it out as it warms up. If you have a Air/fuel ratio meter you could nail it down perfect while cruzing

You can get a gasket material set at Orilleys. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fel-pro/oil--chemicals---fluids/adhesives---sealants/gasket-material/33e43ac38f2f/fel-pro-gasket-material/fel0/3060/v/a/6681/automotive-truck-1987-nissan-d21-pickup?q=gasket+material&pos=0 Has everything youn eed

Just wanted to say thankyou to ea6driver for the parts. Very easy to work with and all parts worked. I purchased the Thermo-time switches and all were functional.

#1 is the switch that turns of the "Hair Dryer" aka injector blower. It is mounted in the thermostat housing #3 is the hi engine coolant temp switch. It disconnects the power to the distributor and shuts down the engine due to overheating. It is mounted in the heating plate under the Aux AIr Regulator #5 are coolant temp sensors but not for any Z car. The oval connector was not used until much later #4 is an O2 sensor #2 are thermo-vac valves. Dont know the difference between them. There may be ID numbers that might give a clue. They were used to limit vacuum to the distributor until the engine was warmed up and also to the EGR on some cars.

When you say "gas" do you mean gasoline or exhaust gas?

Do some research on the carbs. Find a jet kit for them and start dropping the jet sizes. You are way too rich. What are the carbs? What year of car?

I do believe you can get a repair sleeve for that. This https://www.ebay.com/itm/385131109922?hash=item59ab9a5e22:g:dNkAAOSwuu9jLVv1&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8Mmzd8Qx%2BQgKiBCruMq60Ch39qBTre9opXhacRBBgAFVTA4WUV8n9h6E1AHSm71h9%2BzzHHKBzOSkpC3OxETALPdXZcXzTBdUNWYoSuaWQdpiJKPY0QpAvLNNHW7Q%2Fs2fe82M6Y76I3PvmnDrSK4Hk87FrDreNeq2vphqHrt87AXOITO7FFQthAEWned0fpKN5omlIQ5nfNIGK%2BVwA%2FXJoy9q4xwZ6uY3L1bks7RjyCUceDxM1KmgWkoKB9kZPA97q%2FK07Ky%2Ba1X%2Bd8GMQWYQ5fwGy%2BERSyij%2Bo4Vpkgzg2tQICwWIjkVeFU9gt5nyfTX%2Bg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMzPLGqIdh I have used these with great results

If you put it on backward, you can't get the oil pump drive shaft to mesh with the crank gear

I have one, it is for sale for 1 billion dollars or trade for a puppy and world peace.🤪

Lift the rear as high as your jack stands allow. Get a rubber cork from Running or any real hardware store that is the same size as the oring. Or use a shop rag to plug the hole when you get the gear out.

you need to make a puller to get that cap off. Thats why there are 2 small bolt holes in the cap

Good video, bad puns and awkward English language lesson. Does not apply to the s130.

How did you replace the seal? Where did you get the parts? More info please

someone had the cam out of that thing. I see 4 dots on the cam support so they could get the towers back in the correct spot.

Photos of the 74 in ND.

Local yard had one as of last week 1974 260z. Its in Mandan North Dakota. I will see what they want for it and let you know, then the evil S word....................shipping.