texasz

Yes, according to VB the '70-'78 windshield are all the same and have the same part number.

STILL waiting to hear from you about the mix up with the part you sent me. PLEASE contact me so that we can get this straightened out ASAP.

Ya know, I even did a search on Rebello Racing Engine and still could not find it. :stupid: Forgot to thank you.... Thanx for the link.

Ok, I can NEVER find the link to Rebello's website when I want it. This time I'm bookmarking it! Can anyone post the link please? Why don't we add this to our Links page? I looked under Z Car Businesses and didn't see it.

In Texas we have a couple different options for cars classified as classics. We can run with the original plates (at least plates from the original year) or get new "Classic Auto" plates like the ones kmack has on his car (I think, I can not find a pic of them now). There is a place just south of me (actually a little more than 1/2 way between me and kmack) that deals in classic/collectable cars and they sell the plates there (I'm sure there are many other places that do also). Here's a link to their site, they always have a lot of nice cars to look at. Automania I personally have never seen a Z in there but I did see a 280 on their website within the past few months. And they also do restoration work so they really know their stuff! EDIT: In fact the 280 is still on there, but it's a 2+2.

I'm parting out a '73 240Z and the engine is still there! It was a daily driver before the PO parked it a couple years ago. You interested? Name your price (please be reasonable)! Please email or PM me if you want it, I'm not planning on following this thread.

Answers my question. The buy selling it, on eBay, is not too clear on this sway bars application. He states that it is for a 240Z and that there is no drilling required. I didn't think that this sounded right based upon the past threads here. Thank you all. I was hoping to save a few bucks instead of buying the ST set with runs near $300 for front and rear but looks like I'll just have to bite the bullet when I get to that point in my Z and buy them new from them to insure I get the right ones.

Last pic

Pic 3

Pic 2

Does this look like the kind of sway bar for a 240Z that does NOT require drilling the chassis to mount?

Here that's what we call "BAIT"! ROFL

I do plan on keeping the hood at this point as the PO of my driver bumped the nose into a wall. As far as I know the diamond vinyl is original, I got the parts car last summer from someone on this board (Ernie) who had it as his parts car and his daily driver prior to that. Sorry, I don't know any more about the history than that.

St.stephen, Strut tower vinyl is not very good, driver's side has a rip and passenger side has a couple nicks. The trans tunnel vinyl is gone, the PO must have kept it. The stearing wheel is worn and needs restoration, it has one cut in it. See pix of all. MikeW, The hatch interior plastic is OLD, both the pieces around the 1/4 windows are cracked and probably not of any interest, the ones behind them seem to be ok, the one on the rear (tail light area) is missing as is the one on the hatch. See above for diamond vinyl description. I did find some misc diamond vinyl pieces in the car, see pix. Here's a link to pix of the parts you have asked about as well as parts that others have asked about: http://www.pape.ws/gallery/Parts_People_Has_Asked_About

WOW!! That's a really cool looking engine bay. Do you have more pix of the rest of the car?

I have a set of iron cross wheels on eBay that I just listed last night. Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=34209&item=2456377646&sspagename=STRK%3AMESSE%3AIT The Buy It Now price includes FREE shipping as stated in the auction!

Ok, I'm tearing down an engine and I can not get the bolt that holds the cam sproket off. I have tried just my socket wrench and my impact wrench and still no luck. How do I get this bolt off!? :cross-eye

:stupid: :stupid: Sorry Michael. I just didn't read your question that way. From what I know the wiring for the lights etc up front run through the cold air ducts to the passenger compartment. The engine wiring runs down along the under side of the block then up into the passenger compartment. Sparky can provide better details about it. It was a fantastic looking job, the engine compartment looks SOOO clean!!

All wiring has been hidden! Very nice job (I saw the car a couple weeks ago).

THAT'S INSANE!!! I agree with all comments thus far, who'd buy it, just when you thought you had seen everything on eBay, etc, etc, etc. I don't know what to say....I'm speachless....there are SO many thoughts running through my mind about this auction....

I'm lost! Is this an auction on TV?

Some of it is. What piece(s) do you need? Please see the pix, they show a little of the car.

Ok, no takers on the whole car so I'm going to part it out. Name your part and your price and I'll let you know if it's available, what condition it's in, pix if possible, etc.

Nice clean engine bay, previous owner must have never driven it and steam cleaned it daily!! :stupid: Is the NGK plug box holding your radio dial in place?

Read up on Z Garage and you will know all about the mods you want to make with the exception of the N42, he doesn't talk about that head. From the research I have done the F54 block with flat-top pistons and the N42 head are better than the same block with a P90 only because it's cheaper. What I mean by that is you have to shave the P90 and then shim the cam towers to achieve the same compression ration as just bolting on a stock N42 head to the same block; the compression ration for this block with an N42 head is supposed to be 10:1. I'm building mine in the garage now with an N42 head. :classic: