texasz

Not completely true, if it were to be damaged I wouldn't sell it I'd end up trashing it that is unless it was repairable but the buyer would know it's condition up front. It sucks when you get screwed by a seller who does not tell you these kinds of things (first hand experience talking here). Well that does sound like WAY more work than I was hoping for, maybe I'll pass on doing this.

On my parts car I'd like to remove the oil pan, crank, pistons, rods, etc without removing the block from the car. How is this done and is it worth the effort (I'm just selling the parts to fund my project)...time vs. money for the parts I sell? I already have the head off, removing the water pump and front cover should not be a problem. Oh and the radiator is out also so this will not be in my way either, nor will the A/C compressor or alternator as those have also been removed. Any help would be great!! Thank you in advance. :classic:

Sure I'd sell them, only thing is the block is still in the car and I do not know how to pull the parts you need. I'd sell ya the block with the parts still in it if you want to pay the shipping, or if you can tell me how to remove the parts you need with the block in the car still I'll give it a shot. There is another person who has asked for the rods first but he only wants the rods, no other parts nor the whole block.

No sweat mdbrandy, to get all three pieces will cost well over $400 from Chloe though, the used parts I have would be much cheaper of course...but they are used so if someone wants new...

Yes I do!! Please see my list of parts in the For Sale forum, there's a link to pix of it also.

The bottom of this rod should just slide up and out of the latch mechanism.

Are you looking for the signal light or the lower valance? I live in Austin and have a complete lower front valance for sale.

Are you looking for the signal light or the lower valance? I live in Austin and have a complete lower front valance for sale.

Hey Ben, any luck in getting that gas peddle and the bracket for the hand throttle off the car for me? I know you said you didn't have any easy way to remove the bracket last time we spoke but was hoping that you were able to get this part since then.

Thanx Mike!! I tried all kinds of search engines but not this one. :stupid:

Could I get you to look up a phone number for me? The information is below: JAMES ARTENZIO PAWLISH or ANN PAWLISH 226 ferry st Sewickley PA. 15143 I tried searching on the web with no luck.

Yes, this is a 240Z radiator and will fit in all years of the 240Z. I do not think that it matters if the tranny is auto or not since the transmission oil cooler in most cars is seperate from the radiator (please correct me if I'm wrong). Any how this came out of a manual so it will work in your car. I just pulled this part a couple days ago so it just needs boxed up and it's ready to go. Please let me know if you want it and for how much (also include your shipping address in a PM so I can get you a shipping price).

I got one for you! Here's a link to some pix (they are on p4 and 5) http://www.pape.ws/gallery/Parts_People_Has_Asked_About

Ok, so you all know how you are working on something and things are not going well you just can not see the forrest for the trees....well that was me on this problem. I have used the breaker bar technique before but had just got so frustrated I forgot about it. :stupid: I tried that this morning and it worked great!! Thank you all for reminding me about this method.

Ok, I was removing a head yesterday and came across a stuck head bolt that put a halt to this very quickly (removing them in order of course and can go no further). I tried using an impact wrench (not the most powerful one out there mind you, it's the $75 Craftsman model) and I also tried doing to loosen it by hand but got no where. This baby is just plain stuck!! Can anyone out there provide some tips on loosening it?

I have a 4Runner and buy my performance and upgrade parts from Performance Products; they have a website and may ship to the UK.

The arm rests were sold a little over a month ago. I'll have to look for the vinyl trim that mounts alongside the aluminum scuff plates but I do not think it is there. Would rather not ship the seats, just too darn big. The '73 did not have the hatch grills, in fact only cars built during '70 have them, so I do not have these either. Sorry I could not be of more help man.

Great!! I'm glad you got it and are happy with the condition...I try to please. :classic: Thank you for the purchase Bill.

Bumper pix are available on my website, the link is in my post above. Please see the pix for an idea of the condition. Yes, I do still have the rain gutter trim. I'll look it over in the morning but I do not recall seeing anything wrong with it and will gladly pull the parts and sell them too you. Off hand, how do they come off? I have not looked at removing them before.

Here's a fellow forum member selling his race Z. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11927

I am looking for a set of turbo head bolts...preferably new ones. Anyone got some for sale? How much?

BUMP! Still tons of stuff left, check out the list as it has grown! On stuff that says make offer...seriously...make me an offer or all this goes to the crusher.

If anyone out there has an R180 that you would be willing to sell parts from I'm looking for the companion flanges from one.

From what I understand basically, yes you would need to run premium if you have a 10:1 CR.

I didn't mention that the N42 and the N47 are exactly the same except for the exhaust ports. So if you do have the N47 you could still put it on your '82 block and get the same 10:1 compression. Only reason I said just drop the entire '82 engine in if you had the N47 head was for ease.