texasz

Yes, I agree that's why I have a trailer and need the hook to winch the car up on the trailer with. The name that they are known by is misleading indeed, my intent certainly is not to tow the car by this hook.

You forgot the link to the thread.

Can someone post pix of how/where the front tow hook mounts please? I have the hook (not the flat stock with a hole in it, the actual hook) and need to know where the bolt that holds it in place is located so I can mount it.

Just to add information to this thread, here's a link to some more on the early vs. the late 5-speed tranny: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html Note the other physical difference in the picture, one vs. two "ears".

I've done the rear exhaust bolt method before, in fact just two weeks ago. I've also taken a chain (a trucker's chain used for towing) and wrapped it around the engine threading it through the open space in BOTH engine mounts to keep is from slipping forward or backwards while removing the engine.

Thank you for this info...I just pulled a tranny from my 1980 parts car and had done some recent reading to find a lack of info as to if I had the close or wide ratio tranny. For some reason all the info I found made NO mention of the 1980 model. If the only difference is in 5th then I'm in good shape and got what I wanted for my Z as I will be autocrossing.

And what's the source and pricing? I have a set of trip Mikuni 44s from Todd myself.

I do want/need one of these though it's low on my priority list right now.

Ok, so what's the head and what does the valve cover read on the top?

Do we have an idea as to the pricing yet? I would not commit to too many if the price were to be $90.

I agree about the caps and spelling...also just my opinion. FWIW On the engine you want...I'm in a similar situation with my wants vs. my cash on hand. I found that DatsunSpirit.com has a very high HP engine build available...well over 300HP for around $7k. Want even more power, I believe the next step up is $10-12k. To push 250HP you are looking at a bored and stroked engine with head work, a cam, and triple carbs (Mikuni, Webber, OER, Solex, etc). As a point of reference the carb setup will run you around $1500 alone, maybe more as it's been a few years since I bought mine (personally I'd consider contacting Todd at Wolf Creek Racing for them...that's where mine came from and he's great to work with). Dave over at Rebello is a great guy to work with also from what everyone has said. I have talked with Dave and Eiji at Datsun Spirit about what I want and have to save more coin before making that jump. Just to add to the mix I've also heard good things about Sun Belt (http://www.kssmotorsports.com/sunbelt/about_us.aspx), they are in Atlanta as I recall. Rebello (http://www.rebelloracing.com/) is in Cali, and Datsun Spirit (http://www.datsunspirit.com/) in in VA. Everyone will jump at the opportunity to tell you cheaper ways to make the power you are looking for including doing a V8 swap, going turbo, etc. Ultimately it's your decision. Do you research and make then decide what you want to do. As for the heads you have, the N47 is identical to the N42 with one exception, the N47 has ROUND exhaust ports whereas the N42 has SQUARE ones. The square exhaust ports are by far the most common and thus the most desireable since manifolds/headers are easier to come by. The ONLY TWO heads that have the round ports are the N47 (1977-1980) and the P79 (1981-1983 non-turbo) [reference: http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/index.htm]. The N42 seems to be the most desireable for high power applications...which also means the N47 should be the same in terms of performance. The P90 also seems to be sought after though it has been said that it requires more work to obtain the higher performance from it (although it is also said that it flows better since it was the turbo head). There have also been write ups done on the E31 head for performance though these seems to be fewer and not as recent...has to do with the valve sizes and combustion chamber size/shape. No matter what to reach your desired HP range with an N/A engine you will be boring and stroking it to the best of my knowledge...this means sourcing the pricey and sometimes hard to find LD28 crank from the deisel Maxima. These pop up on eBay with some frequency and prices start at $400 if you are lucky and go up to around $600. Then you have to decide which pistons to go with. And this is all assuming that you are going the ol' school method. If you talk with Eiji he will tell you that this is 80's technology and there is a better way now...of course that costs more money. Like I said, do you research! There are a few websites out there dedicated to the 3.1L (or 3.2L) Z car engine. Search for things like 3.1L 3.2L Stroker and you will find plenty of reading material. Or you could just chose one of the afore mentioned options (i.e. V8, turbo, etc). Hope that this helps. I've been looking researching these engines for a while to decide what I want to do and how much I have to save to do it. FWIW I want the cool factor and sleeper nature of a 300HP+ L6 N/A engine...nobody would know what hit them until it's too late. Now I just have to sell a LOT more of the spare parts I have to reach that goal.

Thank you for the replies guys!! gnosez, those links were great!! Very helpful and informative. Blue, I already knew about Bad Dog and was preparing to order I just wanted to make sure that was the right part and from the links from gnosez it appears as though it is.

Anyone got good recommendations for frame rails for a 240Z? I'd like some heavy duty ones that just fit over the existing rails to add strength and rigidity to the car. I know of only one place to get them off hand and that's Bad Dog Parts. Anyone have experience with their rails? Anyone have a better suggestion (i.e. superior product, cheaper price, etc)?

Would these be from a 280ZX? Does anyone know?

Do you have install instructions to go with them?

Got more info on that head kit from Japan? Very interesting.

Ok. And with 29 splines what year/make is it from?

I just want to be sure I'm clear on what these parts came from as I have someone asking to buy them and want to ensure they are the correct part for his application. What I have are the part that has the 4-lugs on them for the wheel to attach to, they pass through the wheel hub at the bottom of the strut tube. They have 29 splines. Are these from the 280Z and 280ZX as stated above?

Once again you guys are a wealth of information! Thank you for the replies. I'll look around for such a tool locally first...maybe Harbor Freight??? If not I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and buy one online.

Thank you for the feedback and ideas on this type of switch. So you are using both the inertia and oil pressure switches in the same car? Interesting idea.

I know that there has been disucssion on this topic in the past for those who add an electronic fuel pump to their early Z. I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with the item being sold in this eBay auction? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310298569974&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

Ok, this may sound like a silly question at first. How do you drain the fluid from a manual tranny while it's in the car still? I guess another question would be how much fluid should there be so I know how large a container I need to catch it all? Last time I pulled an engine/tranny together all the tranny fluid ran out through the drive shaft hole and made a mess on my garage floor...I'm looking to avoid that from happening again.

WOW, I'm sold I have to have one, where do I sign up!!

If it has T-Tops then it would not be a 280Z unless it was modified, this would be a 280ZX and yes they did have t-tops in 1980...I have one for sale myself.

So which taks from later cars are a direct bolt in for the 240Z? I'd like to get a tank with baffles if possible.