texasz

$12k for that in Hawaii is a deal...for them to ship a Z from the mainland is not cheap. And that 240Z does not look that bad from the pictures provided (I'm sure it's worse that it looks, they usually are).

That engine bay just looks blaa, plain, boring, nothing pops. That shaved valve cover only adds to this feeling.

I need some help here. I've put together a lot of information (below) on possible transmission/diff combinations I may put in my Z and need a little guidance as to what this all means. Here's what I think this is telling me...the wide ratio (77-79) is going to give me more off the line acceleration in 1st and 2nd with a long wait to $^!# to 3rd and poorer highway top end speed than the narrow ratio (81-83) tranny. That being said, the it gets messy when you start to look at different diffs in the mix. These are the sites I have used as references for all this research. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html https://tiresize.com/calculator/ http://www.vmar.com/java/gear.html http://www.zcsd.org/tech-articles/differential-ratios.php The numbers in orange are the MPH difference from one gear to the next. In my mind I'm thinking this is good to look at since it will help illustrate "time" spent in each gear, the size of the jump from one gear to the next which would relate to time in the 'power band'. Maybe I'm completely out of my mind, you tell me. 😉 So of course the big question...what do I install???

Or just get a brick. lol

They should be 4-screw. I have a 1/71 as well and it too has the 4-screw set on it as others have also confirmed.

One of the issues with those old sun roofs is their tendency to leak. Beyond that I think it is really a matter of preference and many do not like them on these cars, myself included. That being said, both my 4Runners have factory sun roofs on them and I love those. As for eliminating it, I've seen people do both a complete roof skin replacement as well as welding in a patch. The complete roof skin is probably a better solution and they pop-up for sale some what frequently, just keep an eye out for someone parting a car out that has a solid and straight roof (and make sure you get one from a 2-seater as that appears to be what you car is, I believe the 2+2 roof is slightly different and will not work on a 2-seater). The other thing to consider is you will also have to replace the headliner as there is a large hole in it right now. 😉

Wow the price on this one jumped in the last two hours...from $19k to $40k...for a '73 no less.

I would avoid that guy! Search Facebook and you'll find he has his own personal hate group...not everyone can say that. 😉

Oh crap, I missed that...I Googled Houston Z Car Club and that was the first result and did not think to dig deeper. Please forgive my error.

You may also want to check out the Houston Z Club, https://www.zcluboftexas.org/ They have a Sponsors page on their site that may be of help as well as the Links page, if all that fails maybe see if there's a way to ask that group as I'm sure someone in there can give shop names. If you want to bring it to Austin then go to Austin Z Clinic https://austinzclinic.com/ and Kevin will take care of you.

I was thinking the same thing on #2, AC tensioner pulley.

Nope, I would think that it would be too bright and make it difficult to see.

Hmmm...I'm not sure. These are OEM though, in the first picture you can just see the corner of the Nissan logo on the sticker (red arrow) and the second picture I just took of one of the ones I received from them a couple months ago.

$67 here: https://zcardepot.com/products/engine-motor-mount-oem-240z-260z-280z-280zx?_pos=5&_sid=d972a746c&_ss=r

Also if using a computer just right click on the link on the left and select 'open in new tab' then you can copy the URL from that new tab which will be a link to the specific page. Thank you Carl for creating and continuing to maintain this site for SOOOOO many years, I know I have used it since around 2003 or so. There's a TON of great content on it. I will agree about the technology being dated, use of frames on websites was a big thing for a while. For a site that is free, no donations requested, and completely run by one person it still does the trick. I can see why work has not been put into the technology as that is time consuming and a never ending story as technology is constantly changing. As long as frames continue to be supported by modern browsers I think it's fine the way it is. There are other Z sites built on old technology though still contain a wealth of valuable information...Z Therapy (https://www.ztherapy.com/), Datsun 3.1 Stroker (https://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/), and Bryan Little's Z Garage if you can still find it...just to name a few I can think of off the top of my head. Oh wait! I just found Bryan's newest iteration (at least the 3rd URL I've found for it, the oldest being geocities) of his site and it is much more modern than the old one (https://datsunzgarage.us/).

Bump... Looking for input on the above mentioned NISMO electronic fuel pump please.

I removed that panel yesterday without removing the tire, it was actually quite easy (the car is up on jack stands so maybe that helped make it easier to remove the panel with the tire still on).

What great timing on this thread!! I just pulled my tank yesterday.

The over riders were an option for sure. The bumperettes may have been an option, I'm not certain. I can say that they were available in '70 given that my 08/70 in my garage has them.

What about this NISMO one? Any thoughts, opinions, or experiences with these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/660122143-NISMO-High-Flow-Volume-Fuel-Pump-Electromagnetic-Piston-Type/133371205206?fbclid=IwAR0s4RwbojHnmGp909LiAy0DsYpQ1Uf2GGgz6GwwNcQZj0h-MCvJy-0O7YQ

I know that this may be a long shot, I need to get in touch with an admin from Hybridz.org to help me access my account. Long story...short version, I cannot access my account, it must have an old email address so password reset not working, no public link to get help on the site. So if you are an admin over there please contact me. If you have an account over there and can help me get in contact with an admin please let me know. Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide. 🙂

Nice looking color.

The Maxima was also known as the 810. "The name "Maxima" dates back to 1980 for the 1981 model year when the upscale 810 sold as the "810 Maxima" in North America."

To add to what has been said already, rust/corrosion will cause resistance in the circuit which can result in the issue you described. Start with the easy test, drop in a shop/garage or place like Batteries Plus or auto parts store and have the battery/alternator tested. If those both test to be in good condition start chasing down resistance in the circuit by cleaning up connections...start with the ones most likely to be bad like the ones on the outside of the car like @dutchzcarguy mentioned. There can also be corrosion on/in the fuse box as well as the switches on the steering column. When going through all of these connections and cleaning them make sure that there is good contact and that they are tight also.

Agreed on the jack stands!! Mine are certainly NOT from Harbor Freight. 😉 Thank you everyone for your input. Looks like the Pittsburg from Harbor Freight is the winner.