grannyknot

Geez, I sold one like that last year for $80. Have you tried @zKars he's got a lot of stuff.

Mark, you will be one of those guys at car shows who bring mirrors with them so everyone can see how pretty the bottom of the car is That's a lot of work but is going to look great.

Well I can see you have posted something Allan but since you are on my f--- off list I can't see it I'm sure I'm not missing anything of worth though.

Rust bucket is a subjective term, that's what we call a pretty clean Z where I live.

@Takhli that's pretty clever, hope Matt's paying you well for your work

Oh look, the Prima Donna's nose is bent out of shape YET AGAIN, sure doesn't take much does it?

If it comes up for sale in North America someone on this site will see it. Good luck.

@bartsscooterservice I'm not talking so much about the rad, they have a life span and some are better than others, I'm talking mostly about inside the water jackets and the corrosion that can build up just as notWes has shown us in his pics. And it is not just poor heat transference, the corrosion can actually plug up coolant passages and water jackets so the engine can end up with hot spots that screw up the rings in extreme examples.

How exciting! If you don't know when the engine was last turned over it might be a good idea to remove the spark plugs first and squirt a bit of oil into the cylinders before trying, there is a whole prodcedure that one of the members here wrote up on bringing back an engine that hasn't been started in a long time, I'll see if I can find it. It's a beauty.

If the heater core is still in the car why not hook it up to the engine and test it? If it is leaking you will have to pull it out anyway.

Your right John, the door doesn't really need to be much darker, I'll bet just some more shine will give it a darker appearance. Can't say I like the idea of black shoe polish right next to where my wife will sit with some favorite white top that will be ruined and I'll never hear the end of it. Got home early today so I thought I would get everything prepped for installing the engine later on this week but as it turned out I had just enough time to get it in, not a minute too late, I'm getting too old to be dropping engines in by myself. I'm running out jam. Thought I would take a pic of all this new hardware cause I aint going to see it again once it's in the engine bay, rear end almost finished, just have to fit the exhaust system now,

Thanks Blue, Well thank you Bruce I appreciate the offer, I'll give you a couple of days notice, I will certainly need some help trouble shooting all the gremlins and bugs that are sure to show up.

I salvaged my original fender seals but now I'm thinking of back tracking and using your method. The black under the cowl vents is also a good idea.

Radiator or Engine flush will only improve the heat transfer, it won't hurt anything.

And if you look at that photo and try and picture where the rest of that 3rd persons body is, then the carpet, cover and spare wheel had to come out and that person is sitting on the bottom of the spare wheel well with there legs up on the storage bins. Must be comfy.

Hopefully one of my three cats got them. Made some good progress today, finished installing the front suspension so the car can come off the jack stands now and back on to wheels, got the engine bay wiring harness in, door glass and quarter windows in and started playing around with the leather trans tunnel cover, also almost finished the firewall insulation. Starting to get more comfortable with contact cement and the tack off times.

Hmmmm, I have always believed (taught decades ago in auto class) that the ground wire should be the same thickness as the Positive, in this case no# 2 cable and that is grounded into a 7/16x20 seat belt anchor nut. If I were to ground that #2 cable to a little M6x1 bolt on the hold down bar, well it just wouldn't feel right, doesn't seem like there would be enough surface area. I know it would work but I'm thinking worst case scenario, doing 150mph with high beams on wipers on fast, stereo blarring, blower on full while I lean on the horn, happens all the time

Needs the Bambi treatment, Godzilla's foot.

Wes, If you are going to tackle the cooling system I would advise you to do the entire system on the first go around, the system works very well in stock configuration but the inside water passages of the engine block and rad have to be CLEAN. Rust and corrosion don't transfer heat very well so you need to get that crap out first, while the system is all still together run some good quality radiator flush through it and don't forget to open the heater valve as well. I have also used CLR on occasion and it worked well. Then after the engine cools off flush the whole system with fresh water from the garden hose until it runs clean. You will probably be the first guy in 40yrs to have cleaned that system so expect a lot of brown crap to come out. Then replace the rad, thermostat and maybe the water pump, no more anxiety gauge The stock 4 spd tranny is a very stable fun unit to drive, a 5th gear is nice to have if you do a lot of highway. Your Z looks great, a good example to build with. Chris

I live for that old car smell You could try MSA, http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/40-2579 But I also have had good results with spray can carpet paint.

I got the headlights finished and installed, the main power cable from the battery and out through the floor pan and out the to the starter.

No one has placed a bid on it yet.

Boy, that needs a lot of work.

My god those cars sounded good.

After burners