grannyknot

The rear calipers I'm using are off a Maxima and they look identical to the ones in Silvermines stage 4 kit so I just assumed they were the Maxima calipers. I'm using the vented 4 pot Toyota calipers up front with a 15/16" MC. I also installed a Wilwood proportioning valve but it does nothing, the valve is wide open and I can't get the rears to lock up even on gravel.

Damn, that was a great car, but I see Jim`s reason for doing it, I did it myself with an M6, although it was a difficult decision to make I was not going to give the car away for 30 cents on the dollar. Besides it is helping a few guys finish their cars.

Or a robot bee

Is that Jim`s car

Well I assembled this configuration of parts my self, saved a few bucks and my parking brake works fine, however to get the parking brake working with these calipers you have to optimize everything cause the when the parking brake is activated it only pushes the inside pad about a one tenth of an inch so everything has to be adjusted perfectly. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/stage-4-rear-big-brake-kit

Try here, a good guy to deal with, https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades

Nice find, the sellers Z looks pretty nice, he parted that car?

Your practice welds are just fine, try running a bead with every setting the welder has, run them right next to each other and label them so you start to get a feel for what is too much and not enough. Your machine will have a chart that will get you in the ball park but it's better to know by sight and feel. Re the quote above, you know that 16-18ga are thicker than 20ga. 20ga is more difficult to weld than what you are practicing on, much easier to blow holes through, it can be difficult to run a bead on 20ga, a better way is a number of spot welds or tack welds untill you have a bead made up individual welds. Looking good!

Ahhh no thanks but you are welcome to take a selfie with him, Justin loves selfies.

Good, glad I didn't cost you too much, I was digging through my collection of crush washers and o rings and in a pinch a M8x1.25 and a fuel injector o ring will work temporarily until you can find something more permanent.

@ryanotown22, my apologies, see post #3. Forget the 1/2"x20 that is completely wrong, my notes are wrong. The drainage bolt you are looking for is a M8x1.25, I just checked my gas tank and it is M8x1.25, what a twit. The problem with a standard M8x1.25 is the bottom of the head isn't really flat and there is not much of it to get a crush washer to do its job. The original drain bolt had a larger head with a machined flat bottom for a good seal. The "packing" is the copper or aluminum crush washer.

Actually, I'm still trying to find mine, I removed it when I was restoring the tank and put it somewhere safe, so safe it still hasn't shown up, I may have to make one.

Ain't that the truth and where is the line between them? Eastwood rust converter or Ospho or any of the other products are just phosphoric acid, it converts iron oxide into iron phosphate. You have to remove as much of the rust as possible before applying it because it can convert the top layer and turn it black (iron phosphate) and leave rust underneath. You apply it and must keep it wet to keep it working, if it dries you will end up with the white powder and no paint or primer will ever stick to it, you will have to sand it off. You need to wash the converter off while it is still wet with water but even then I have still ended up with the white powder. I don't use phosphoric acid any more because it is such a pain in the arse. It sounds like the rust remover/dissolver you are using is the Evaporust type, not an acid, works by displacing the oxide ions with a chelating agent. Immersing the rusty part in the rust remover works very well and you can just paint over but I do wash it before priming. Using the gel type rust remover for vertical surfaces is much more tricky, the ones I have used are not really gels as much as a blob of snot like material that does not want to spread, I haven't tried Eastwoods version yet hopefully it is better. With the gel type you need to cover the applied area with Saran wrap to keep it wet and working but you really don't want the gel type to dry. It becomes this hard crust that can be very difficult to remove. The above is just my experience and my understanding of the chemistry, so what should you do? That takes us back to the lines between good, better and perfect, you will never get all the rust, every seam has some, I remove as much as I possibly can and seal it up with 2k epoxy primer, that at least will slow it down as much as possible. So sand off anything that looks whitieish, nothing will stick to that stuff.

BIG EDIT Sorry about this but the 1/2"x20 is completely wrong, You are looking for an M8x1.25 bolt. I was looking through my notes and 1/2"x20 is what I have there but that must be for something else, I just went out to the storage shed to dig out the gas tank. A 1977 280z gas tank has M8x1.25 drain bolt. Note to self, re check my notes

Wealthy soccer Mom playing with her phone no doubt, I see this sort of thing everyday in traffic which is why I have a dash cam running all the time. The Province of Ontario has a law against driving while using any hand held device but almost no one pays any attention to the law and continue to use them. But I just received a note with my vehicle insurance renewal that states Insurance companies in Ontario at least now consider a ticket for using a hand held device a major conviction and will result in an annual increase of your premium by 40%! Now that may actually produce some positive results.

How long has it been sitting in primer? Do you know what kind of primmer was used?

So cool, I want. Allows you to test the fitness of your battery or the effectiveness of your A/C Where did you find it?

You could use a much lighter application of a spray can adhesive since you want to be able to remove it again, you could try out on some old fabric or vinyl and use just enough for it to grab and hold.

Maybe you should ask him if he needs any help around his property, you know, cut the coke with icing sugar, pop the cold tablets out of the foil packages for meth, show him your earnest and hard working.

That is much better than I thought it would be, for some reason I was thinking it would be flat glass, not convex. Thank you

That's what I tried to find but settled on Conan

Yeah this happened today, helluva time cleaning it up,

The brake lines on a my 77/280z also had the olive green coating, I started sanding it off at first, it ended up being too difficult so I replaced them with a new set of Cunifer lines but I'm pretty sure the green coating is some kind of plastic or at least it sands off like plastic. You can see in the last 2 pics how the coating curls up when scraped with a razor which makes me think it isn't paint or zinc. If you can't find NOS lines there is always the possibility of stripping the lines and have them powder coated of painted.

Kats, I was just looking at the photos you posted in your new album and it reminded me of a question I've always wanted to ask, The front mounted fender mirrors on your 432 and Fairlady, are they as functional as door mounted mirrors? The fender mirrors without a doubt look very cool but are they as useful as conventional side mirrors for seeing traffic behind you? Thanks

Nothing like that on the 72 or 77, could they have been replaced at sometime in the past with after market rockers?