grannyknot

Does that mean you have to remove the existing airbox and blower?

I agree it certainly is the fastest but it also comes with the danger of the stripping chemicals hiding in the seams and crevises then seeping out after the new paint is on causing breaks in the paint, then the rust starts all over again (ask me how I know). A small fine wire brush and an air gun along the seams helps a lot removing the last of the stripper. Looking good, I really like your plastic sheet trough under the work area, I'm going to try that next time.

Ya the plastic pintel covers the tip.

You just won the lottery my friend, it looks like it is lovely condition and should be an easy clean up. They are lots of fun to drive.?

Good work, I also like experimenting with different refinishing techniques, I have had some success with sanding lenses down and then lightly buffing on a wheel but it is SO easy to melt the plastic that I've stopped that and use compound polish now, much safer. I'm will try the clear coat method now, SEM has a very good clear. For rubber refinishing I use a Grey 3M Scotch pad until all the hard oxcidized rubber is removed and the surface has a flat appearence then a couple of coats of AutoGlim tire dressing.

Where did you find the U joints with grease nipples? I didn't think they were making those anymore.

Just looked at the pics, that is in great shape for 25 yrs parked, some soap and water would bring back most of the interior. For me that would be a keeper, as soon as you sell it you're going to kick yourself. As a mechanic you already know that engine is going to need some TLC to get it going but with 35,000 miles it is just broken in. If you do decide to keep it there is a small army of guys willing to help with any problems that come up.

Always nice when a 240z drops into your lap, it looks good. So you're thinking about restoring it or selling it, if you sell it as is you will get less for it than if you put in some time and money and get it running well, making sure all the lights, signals, horns etc are working properly. Also, try and find as much original paper work on the car as you can.

I have four 2 ft high jack stands that I use for a car that I'm going to be underneath for a while, I place the stands on blocks of wood to gain a bit more height. After the scraping wash everything down well with a strong industrial cleaner and/or paint thinner, sand down the original primer with 80 grit paper. If you don't want to go the spray gun/compressor route there are some good 2 part epoxy primers in rattle cans now. I have used this stuff a few times now and it's a quality item, https://www.66autocolor.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=2k+epoxy+primer&Submit=Submit to cover the entire bottom of a Z you are probably looking at at least 6 cans. Once you have 2 good coats of 2k epoxy primer from a can or spray gun you can do anything on top, paint, undercoat, some guys do bed liner.

Did the 73 still have the drainage tube on the bottom of the antenna unit that goes through the bottom of the quarter panel?

The only way to know what rust is hiding is to drop all the suspension and start scraping, very often under that thick layer of undercoat that has been there for decades you will find patches of rust. That also gives you a chance to recondition all of the parts you removed. There are brushable coatings but I have never really found that they work as well as spraying, to protect the body paint you can use the 2 mil clear plastic sheeting that house painters use. Drape a big sheet over the car and tape it up along the body edge sealing the car up until you have finished underneath.

@five&dime, your mention of the Silicon/Bronze Mig brazing got me curious so I p/u a reel and started playing around, fantastic stuff, very versatile, perfect for panel repairs as there is little to no heat warping. So thanks for that.

Thank you your Lordship, I suddenly feel a little younger.

I usually go straight to the Unread Content, the Members Map doesn't show on the page but as soon as I jump to any thread the Members Map link is at the top of the page. Uhhh.... yeah let me work on that... what button is that again, hmm, let me ask my wife.

If I hadn't seen those pics I wouldn't have believed either, the measurements that I have done always showed the P/S was longer than the D/S. I guess the grease inside packed up and hardened into the limits of travel and that's what gave the different lengths, anyway it's nice to see that settled once and for all, at least for all of us non believers.

For me the link to the Members Map is right at the top of the page, I'm running Firefox.

https://www.classiczcars.com/membermap/

Sure it's okay, most of the hinges by now have some kind of slop in them anyway.

Damn, I thought about ordering 3 sets from Banzai because the price was so good but only ended up ordering 1, but there is a huge variety of just the rubber blades, there has to be one design that will fit or made to be fit.

Cliff, I don't understand why you want to remove good glass from the mirror housing but to keep the costs down you could try the same lock face cap pliers that Zup linked to in my lock thread, https://www.dhgate.com/product/new-model-car-door-lock-face-cap-plier-removal/396796240.html It is the same application really as the door lock caps except re installing and rolling the lip back into place might not be possible.

Estimated retail value $12,018 What?

I read on one of the weather sites that it is colder in the mid west/prairies today than it was in Antartica , mind you it is summer down there.

I don't have the Silvermine kit but built a similar setup and there is no noise at all, it is easy to forget it's there until I'm in a parking lot and give it a half turn of the knob and use one finger on the steering wheel. The best thing is to be able to turn it off once you're out on the Hwy.

Damn, that is so sweet, what a great colour. Did you do all the body work and paint prep? Whoever is doing it has some mad skills.

But that would be a double D post.