grannyknot

I seen guys weld a 1/8" welding rod on to the edge of the B pillar then just shape it until the gap is perfect then blend in the new edge with some filler.

Well it took longer than planned but it's working, copied @mikev88 method but found I needed a nut on the top of the on/off stud to keep the swivel from flying off, an M5x.8 die works perfectly. The Duplicolor Pontiac Blue DE1610 really is a very close match to the stock colour, so thanks @siteunseen

If you like the look then you could probably talk him down on price some more, but it won't have much resale value if you want to move on at a later time.

Edit, never mind, it has already been answered.

Those are your fusible links, they take a little longer to blow than a standard fuse.

Well the price is still at $800 so the BaT crowd might agree with you.

Is that a source you can let us in on or just a one time thing?

I like having studs for the exhaust for all the reasons ZH mentioned, but also when you are mounting the manifold or header you can let the studs take the weight.

That length sounds about right but you may have to go a little longer depending on what is available, 60 ftlbs is what I use but really I haven't looked it up in years, check for yourself here,

Well if you are comfortable removing/replacing quarters then that is the best way to tackle the inner wheel wells, it also gives you access to all the other rust you just know you going to find. The unibodies on these cars are not as stiff as modern cars so it's always a good idea to limit how much sheet metal you remove at one time so there is no chance of sagging.

It's a good idea to replace all the studs if you can, they take a lot of abuse over the decades with air guns, brake jobs and tire replacements. They are inexpensive and available at any auto parts store, same with the nuts. Once the new studs and nuts are installed and torqued to specs take the car out for a 1-2 mile drive and then re tighten.

Looks great, single stage or base / clear?

Yes sir, that it is That was last August 2017, the engine has been rebuilt and purring again.

But your R/T mount was not made by Technoversions, right? The 2 R/T mounts that I had trouble were from Technoversions.

Listen ya young whipper snapper, one of these days you will start having senior moments then we'll see who's laughing.

Ahhh, the last minute colour dilemma, dangerous waters.

Have you pre fitted the R/T mount and know that it will slide up into place? I ask because I have had to do some major hammering to get one in and the bolts a lined. The diff looks great.

Inside.

I'm not sure that sending unit for a 77 is still available, a few of us here have save ours by letting it sit over night in CLR, comes out very clean and working (that is if it was working before)

I pushed the air dam forward so the back edge lined up well with the wheel arch and with a die grinder removed enough of the urethane so the bumper recess lined up with body bumper recess.

Every time one of these cars comes up on BaT they go for $15-19K Why so cheap?

Just read your whole garage build thread, Epic! Will be great to have all your projects under one roof then just walk upstairs and you're home.

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