grannyknot

and I'm sure I saw a thread on it as well. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/city-of-toronto/1973-datsun-240z-g-nose-fender-flares-webers-original-motor-108k/1395992940?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

At least we know the dog doesn't have any nut allergies. Whoever said you can't fix stupid didn't know this guy. Biggie Smalls, may contain nuts

Peanut butter? I think they mean penis butter.

Send it to the dippers and see what's left when it comes out of the tank, I wouldn't want to be the guy that has to repair that body.

You gotta give us more than that man, is the door being reassembled after restoration, did it break? Can you post some pics of the linkage you are working on? There are little S bends at the ends of many of the linkage rods that can be difficult take apart or reassemble without the glass removed. Need pics.

I'm trying to post the blow up of the Vin tag but doesn't seem to be working, if you can blow it up the numbers are clearly visible. I'll keep trying.

Like you said the splines will probably clean up well enough not to be a problem but the input shaft that spins in the pilot bearing looks like it has some real pitting when you blow up your pic, a bronze bushing is going to get chewed up pretty quickly. A needle bearing might work but you would have to fill those pits to bring the shaft up to size. I think Loktite makes some kind of compound for that purpose, a roller or sealed bearing would be best, but then you would have to have the end of the crank machined to accept it.

The tag reads L26 - 087013 RLS30 - 033565 You have the pink slip in hand so I assume you want to sell it? I would pull it out and hose it off first then give it a wash and find out what you have, a solid rust free shell is always desirable. Without the numbers matching engine it will be worth a lot less but there will be many buyers that won't mind that at all, engines are still pretty easy to find. What a great find, lots of potential. Please post some pics after the clean up and of the interior.

After you clean the oil off you're going to scuff up the metal with sand paper and clean thoroughly again with wax & grease remover just before spraying primmer.

Wow, maybe some water got in there and couldn't get out until it rotted, the top of the rail is actually the floor pan. Seeing that it is the floor pan rail that is rusted I would replace the whole rail. I would also do some exploritory surgery on the other rail just to make sure.

You could also just take an old cloth, drip any kind of oil on it and wipe the bare metal with it, it will keep the rust off for months and is easily cleaned of with thinners or soap and water.

Well you may have to put the car up on jack stands to get enough room to work but the area around where you are cutting won't need any support. Looking forward to the pics.

I would cut out the rust in that section and weld in a patch but it is hard to believe those eight inches are the only rust. Anyway open it up and have a look down the rail and go from there.

Just got the wheels back from the sand blasters, not easy finding a 14" stock looking tire with a modern tread design and quiet on the hwy. I settled on a set of P195/70 R14 Hankook Optimo, they seem to fit the bill.

Oh yeah, if you set up gas for your mig you will never go back, I guarantee it.

Thanks for posting those, I counted 18 in the 3rd pic from the bottom, wonder how many of those are still on the road.

Tell me you kept the external sun visor, so cool.

Absolutely, make it mechanically new and reliable on the inside but with the moss still growing on the paint.

Nice, that's going to work just fine. A bead roller is a great tool have eh?

You could leave the hatch alone and shave a little bit off of the cylinder lock notch so it acommodates the thickness of the filler. Is there room enough under the center panel to get a small bottle jack in there?

Who is selling the firewall insulator? Looks great.

Well Jeff, here you go, this is my 5 window /52. How soon can you start? It's a nice lawn ornament, looks great with snow on it.

Some past owner must have had the valve cover bead blasted and had to remove the oil baffle to clean it. I have had good success with Three Bond 1184, it has very good resistance to oil but both surfaces must be pristine clean so you would have to remove the baffle and degrease both the valve cover and the oil baffle. You could use no sealant but then you would have more oil mist coming out of the breather valve.

Yellow/gold zinc, it is the same thing.

You really should have a stringer attaching both of your rotisserie engine stands together, even a 2x4 clamped on to both sides would do the trick. It puts a lot of strain on your mounting bolts, your work looks great. How do you like the Tabco panels?