grannyknot

Those Tats look like he did them himself with a ball point pen.

The brakes are the most important system on any car, pull the M/C and the booster, if the inner cylinder of the M/C is in good shape you may be able to restore it with a rebuild kit but then a new M/C is cheap at about $110. Brake fluid may have leaked into the booster so you will need to check that out, clean up and repaint.

Heli-coil is really only a temporary fix, do it right with a Time-cert and never think about it again, you might also want to replace that bolt with a new one if it is chewed up.

Looks great, love the colour. I hope your stereo box is properly secured to the sub frame, that could end up as a flying projectile in certain situations. Are your seat covers from Interior Innovations?

Put it dry and let the trans oil do its thing.

I might be a little bit biased but I think if Nissan put the original 240z design back into production they would sell million of them. Update the suspension, brakes and electronics but leave the exterior exactly as it was.

Cord type material or packing isn't used much these days but was used for decades in older machines of every kind, if the material is packed in dry it will expand once it wicks up the oil and can give a good wiping seal. Of course your leak should be fixed properly at some point but it is pretty hard to justify dropping the whole trans for a 25 cent Oring. Another possibility is the flexible stretchy string that joins 3M ear plugs together, I have used it for many repairs, really interesting properties, you can stretch it to twice its standard length before it breaks but remains rubbery. I'm kind of a cheap buggar so I like to find alternatives.

But any Oring large enough to slip over the shifter housing wouldn't be tight enough to prevent oil from seeping out. The oil up in that area is just from splash with no pressure, if dropping the trans is out of the question then you might get away with some simple packing. You could try a length of kitchen cord or felt wound tightly around the gap between the trans and shifter housing and see if you can push it forward into the recess where the failed Oring is in the trans housing. You only need something to wipe the oil off of the rod. Might be worth a try.

Picard with his eyes wide open.

Very nice! That's my new desktop back ground.

I was just about to add that exact comment to my post, I'm the wrong kind of buyer.

Ah, Phoebe Cates

That's kind of a tough one, I have followed the work you have done on that engine over the years and if I needed one would buy yours without hesitation and sleep well. It's a sweet, ready to go drop in but then, the obvious question would be why would you buy an L24 when you could buy an L28? Lots of L24's sitting in the corner of garages, I just gave one away to friend. Hope you are not insulted, on your engine I would lay out $1,200 - 1,500 on an identical unknown engine, not more than $600

And without these forums everyone has to reinvent the wheel each time they come to this problem.

Your engine is a thing beauty, would love to hear that on startup. Congrats on the Skyline, it always amazes the incredible condition of used cars from Japan, someone spent a lot of time and money prepping that car for you?

Any aquarium shop will have some for sale.

I thought I would do just that to mine but could not find an easy way of getting into it without causing some damage, I didn't have a second one if I screwed up the first so I left it. If I was going to do it I think I would run a hacksaw blade around the center of the cylinder that is normally covered by the holder, after the replacement of the filter and carbon glue/plastic weld it back together.

No, that's the just the way they are, it's suppose to tight fit so they don't rotate. If you can remove that bearing again but ONLY by the inner ring, little to no pressure on the outside ring, then you need to check the bearing surfaces on the axle for any burrs. Start with some steel wool and spin it around the shaft to see if it catches on anything, you can also slightly bevel the the edges of the bearing surface with some 400-600 grit paper. A wire wheel will do the same thing. Then grease the axle and pop it in the freezer and have a pipe ready that fits over the axle and is the same Dia. as the inner ring of the roller bearing, your going to use that pipe to tap it down into place.

I use these guys for USA orders, https://www.crossborderpickups.ca/ They say they ship across Canada but I don't know the costs, I have my orders shipped to their border address and they bring it across the border and up to Toronto for $10 plus taxes on the item. I pick it up at their warehouse on the way home from work, saved hundreds dollars so far.

It kind of looks like the springs are off center or loose at full droop, maybe it's just the way the light is hitting it.

Whoa, that is some serious repair work, I guess I would tack some angle iron joining all 4 pillars to each other then tack a couple of diagonal cross braces as well and then start drilling spot welds removing one layer at a time. Some pieces will be repairable and some look they will have to be remade.

Richard, you could tap that little dent out then give that blade another shot of paint but even if you left it as is it will not run out of balance, it is still the same amount of weight in the same axis. The rad fan doesn't rotate fast enough for that dent to make a difference.

Absolutely, I was thinking of the block on the engine stand like in the photo.

The engine bay is really looking sharp, love the coordinated colours, but why are you putting the tank breather up front? Your just going to smell it a lot more than if you mounted it some where at the back of the car.

There are 5 freeze plugs then the drain hole on the block in that pic, far right. You can run water through the coolant passages and it will drain out that drain hole, you can reverse the flow or back flush through the drain hole and move a lot of crud out that way too. I have had a lot of success with filling all the coolant passages with full strength CLR letting it sit over night then flushing and back flushing with a garden hose or better a pressure washer.