Datsun Dealers

The friend chose a VW camper with no engine for $450. I had 20+ photos in the description; the auction ended at $910 but did not meet reserve. Next step is a few hours of elbow grease on the interior and engine bay, then leave it on craigslist.

There's one vote!

My 240z has been running great with new L29 and about 1200 miles on it. The problem is, my diff has been howling/whining for 1000 miles. Short trips around town are fun, just slightly annoying. Would you drive the 2 hours each way? I have free towing. My dad says if it was going to blow up it would've done so by now. Just haven't found the time to install the rebuilt 4.11 R180. If I don't take the Z, I'll take the fiance's Honda Fit and get 36mpg.

Looks like an eBayer in Bulgaria has met my reserve. The problem is I sent him/her a message 32 hours ago and haven't gotten a reply yet. Advice? I want to delete the bids but am unsure how long I should wait before doing so.

New Mr. Gasket electric fuel pump installed, bought new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder to be installed. Also listed her on eBay; friend was taking too long to decide and I've realized I don't have much free time to put into the car. Here's the link, bidding starts at $1.00. I would much rather sell it outside of eBay. Much more photos in the listing description. Datsun Z Series 240Z | eBay

Pm sent Steve J.

She hit $10,000 with almost two days left. Have any of you taken a look in person? I'm curious of a couple things: 1. If the seller tried to turn the engine over by hand, or simply turned the key, to no avail. 2. If the winning bidder will actually follow through with the purchase. Too many times I've had a vehicle auction end with winning bidder messaging, "Sorry I have a family emergency, can't buy the vehicle," without even looking at the car/truck. It is on Bring A Trailer so I'm sure that's bringing more attention.

I agree it doesn't look like original color. Paint code isn't visible on the sticker. Underneath looks red as well where undercoating has flaked off. Door jams are orange if I remember correctly. It has has the metal splash pan, which I was surprised to see.

Basically, I found this 1973 240z through word of mouth. It was not listed for sale anywhere. The story is it was an older gentleman's old time hot rod. He had a heart attack. I bought it from the guy's sister. My only intention is to get it in the hands of a Z fan, and not cut up or in the scrap yard. When I bought it, the car was on jack stands. There is the typical rust. The guy clearly loved the car at one point. I bought it with clear New Mexico title, soon to be in my name in a Georgia title. It has Montana and West Virginia stickers on the rear bumper. Here's what I've found out so far: -PO refinished wheels, brake drums (I had to put the wheels on car at purchase) -rear brakes rebuilt at some point -all brake hoses replaced -replaced alternator -pertronix ignition -rebuilt distributor -re-cored radiator by NM shop -aftermarket cam (ccw core) looks great -non-factory oil spray bar (this sucker is stout, no flex or anything, functional) -full cartech 4bbl holley setup with plenum (never seen plenum for sale) -rust in rockers, floors, lower door skins, dog legs, battery tray. -the seat supports and floor are semi-stable--I can sit in the car without sinking -interior is ratty -hatch area above taillights looks great, except has dime sized hole. tool boxes, spare wheel area completely solid -I can't find any bondo on the car whatsoever -looks to have been repainted at some point -windshield has been replaced, newer gasket, no pits/nicks in glass -at least driver's side window replaced -it has maintenance stickers all over it, looks like jiffy lube serviced it at 145,000 miles in 2001, it's now at 145 and change -no clutch pressure, but master cylinder is full of fluid. I'll sort that out this weekend I rigged up a gas IV of sorts to the carb, and she started immediately with fresh gas. The idle was so smooth I couldn't believe it. The aftermarket fuel pump (purolator proformance) was dead, bought a Mr. Gasket 5-7psi to hook up this weekend. Note: photos were taken with flat passenger's side tires...they have been filled and hold air. Basically my question is, do I sell it as-is (running, rust, cheaper), or put some time into it, getting it on the road, sorting out clutch, brakes, rust. My theory is, as-is, those with Datsun experience knows the rust is not out of the ordinary, and will fix the rust the right way or turn it into a race car. I have a lot of friends that love Datsuns, but are unfamiliar with them, and some have a sort of mindset that if it has rust/bondo they can't enjoy driving it. If a beginner takes on the rust, the project could never be on the road again, but if I put a little work into it, then sell it, it is more likely to be on the road longer/be enjoyed more. I have a garage full of spare/performance parts (car was built 3 months before my own) as well as a full 4 screw SU setup. I'm thinking about taking the cartech setup to put on the shelf. I have a fellow Subaru owner friend that wants the car pretty bad, but isn't experienced in diagnosing problems in an older vehicle. We have to learn somehow I suppose. My goal/plan is $1500-3000 depending on how much time/money I put into her. The Z population is thin on eBay, especially in this condition, and craigslist in the southeast is sparse as well. Most cars are 280z/280zx. So let me hear your thoughts.

Belated congrats for the new Z. I followed your other thread, and still look at it for my gradual rebuilt rear drivetrain install. Question about your 240z tint strip on the windshield. Is it applied to the inside or outside of your windshield? I found a N.O.S. one on eBay a year or two ago, and tried applying it to the inside. Maybe it was because it was a 30 year old piece of film, or my lack of skills, but I failed miserably and gave up. Recently a gentleman told me tint strips are applied to the outside. Figured I'd ask.

Look for a metal plate inside the driver's door jam. Towards the top there should be a month/year production date. Looks like she's had some motor work. Tell us more about her. Does she have a name? Give her a bath.

Yes 93 is available here in GA. I try to stick to the non-ethanol version as well (around $4.39/gallon). I plan on moving to Colorado at the end of this year. I think she'll run ok on 91. Is there a video size limit for these forums? I want to take a good quality video of my current exhaust before I change it a little.

A year later... I just broke 1,000 miles on my new L29. I gave up on the triple SKs; they couldn't idle enough to my liking and I didn't want to mess with all the jets. Sold them and made a couple hundred dollars. Back to my 3 screw SUs. I cut my throttle arm from the firewall to the balance tube to use the SKs, so I had to find a new rod...difficult task. Stumbled on a local guy with a parts car, bought a bunch of carb parts, ended up with the whole dang car a couple weeks later in exchange for a 83 5 speed and p90 turbo head. There was something wrong with the rebuilt kit I bought a couple years ago (maybe I got a flat top kit) that I put in because once everything was together, she wouldn't run. What do I do? Put in the original needle valves along with some SM needles...and she purrs like a kitten. Amazing throttle response, with stage III schneider, clifford headers, and borla muffler, everyone looks when I step on it. Sounds like a V8 at idle but the glorious straight six sound under load. There's one catch. Once I hit 1,000 miles I started taking her over 4,000 rpms. At 5,000, she falls flat on her face and putters out. I'm going to dial in the timing this weekend with a timing light. Upcoming projects: my humming diff is still going strong at 1,000 miles after it started. I have a fully rebuilt R180 4.11 open diff ready to put in, just sourcing some bushings and trying to decide if I want the Ron Tyler diff mount. Also looking for a used 432 style rear spoiler and non-ducted spook airdam.

I've got to be honest, I'm a little surprised myself. But after two years, WingZr0 came through and gave me my original money back. I can understand things turn for the worst sometimes. He's a man of his word in my book.

Just to make sure I wasn't nuts, here's a Z for sale in that price range. Ready to drive, and no "rust free" claims. 1972 Datsun 240Z

I think the gentleman's sentimental attachment to the car has inflated the price. I like the history of it--the PO of my 240z owned it for 34 years--but I paid half that price. The clutch could be stuck to the flywheel from sitting for so long, or the slave needs to be bled. The very very most I would pay for the lemon lime Z is $4000, without being able to test drive it. I think in the $5,000-$7,000 price range you can find a decent Z car with most mechanical details sorted, some upgrades, some things that need attention, etc.

She's beautiful. Have a name yet? I've been eyeballing a local 1600 myself.

I like your profit in horsepower perspective, as well as the "keep it on the road" plan. My Z was off the road for about 9 months waiting for my 'new' L29. I replaced the radiator as stated above, and replaced every engine accessory except for the fuel pump so far. Still going mechanical. With the engine out, I also replaced the steering rack bushings and steering coupler. That is a very reasonable price. Thank you for sharing it. I paid more, AND had to worry about a local race shop's Z familiarity. I always read/believed you couldn't touch one for less than $7000.

There are other companies which sell oversize stainless steel valves in the $180-220 per set range. Which head are you using? As much money as I spent on getting my E88 ported, I didn't want to skimp and figured I might as well go for stainless/oversize valves.

I think it was 14 ft. lbs. IIRC. Someone will have to verify. You don't need to remove the thermostat housing. As Zed head said, I used a couple extensions along with a socket swivel/joint. I couldn't have done it without the last tool.

I sense a bit of sarcasm BleachZee?

I read this thread yesterday and was going to post the manual but it looks like it's already been done. Here's a recent photo of mine. I paid $800 for them including the intake. They are 45mm and I have about 8 hours worth of cleaning into them. I noticed that like a photo posted above, mine don't have any model # stamps on the top plates. The 2.9L engine is fairly modified (check my build thread for specs) and they seem to do ok. They are even running admirably on the factory mechanical fuel pump. I plan to go with a Mazda RX7 unit when I find one. I have some vacuum leaks I'm dealing with right now, and timing is still set by ear. Does anyone know where to find the SK sight tool or another method of setting the floats to factory specs?

My L29 engine builder had to mill the 0.030 over pistons a little off the top for his own peace of mind I believe. Otherwise he told me I needed a 2-3mm head gasket. I'd have to ask him exactly why. How often do builders keep pistons flush?

The K&N air filters actually arrived from Pegasus Racing on April 30th I just didn't make the time to post an update. I'm a lot more willing to go for longer drives now. I did not factor the cost of the K&Ns into the figure for the carbs. It hurt a little. I keep thinking I'm done with spending money! Since the last update I took the carbs, intake, and exhaust off. I figured I might as well get my NOS Jet Hot coated Clifford Research header put on with an exhaust made by a real shop instead of the hack job that was on there before. After some research and a recommendation I found Eddie's Custom Exhaust Shop in Augusta, GA. I got an estimate of $160 for 2.5" pipe including making the header extension from the 6-3-2 header. The owner told me I needed to supply the header reducers. After ordering from NAPA for $26.99 and waiting two days for delivery, they sold me a set for larger headers. The exhaust shop sent me to a local race shop I had never heard of. After walking in the 10-bay garage seeing all sorts of sweet rides, the owner of this shop guided me into the store area. There were about 15 isles of all the race parts you only ever find online. Ignition, AN fittings, fuel pumps, the whole nine yards. Fully built 383s and polished rear ends. I was like a kid in a candy store. The local race shop sold me the reducers I needed (pre welded together I might add) for $16.99. As the guy was ringing me up I asked if he had any exhaust tips for sale. He pointed to the other side of the wall and I could not believe what I saw. A NOS ANSA tip! I asked if he had another and he said there should be another in the box. I could not believe it and I felt incredibly lucky to have gone into this shop. I'm going to eventually weld them together and turn it into a twin tip design. I suppose this makes up for when WingZr0 ripped a few of us off for $400 a piece. The exhaust shop finished around 1 p.m. after dealing with the hiccups. Instead of going for a Flowmaster or Magnaflow muffler, I opted for a used Borla Pro XS he offered me for $20. Overall I'm happy with it. I'll post a video--eventually. I still haven't gotten around to swapping the rear differential. I just bought a fixer-upper investment/rental home that will be taking a great deal of my time.

Thanks for the tips guys. I filled it with fluid and have been driving it for a week or so--about 180 miles. It still whines but my new parts from Black Dragon for the other R180 arrived so I'll be putting it in within the next couple weeks.