Datsun Dealers

I've had 3-in-1 oil in my 2.9L SUs for about 500 miles, in Georgia 95+ degree F summers, to extreme Colorado winter. I have also deleted the coolant tube through the intake and around the block. Takes longer to warm up; I drilled an extra 1/8" hole in the thermostat. At 15 degrees F, the car was sluggish (to be expected) but that coolant tube would acts as a heater. Overall I've been happy with the 3-in-1, but I'm upgrading a lot of items and sorting out some gremlins this spring. I may switch to Marvel Mystery Oil this summer just to see if I notice a difference. I'm not sure which would be best for high elevation (~7,000 ft).

For my reference, link to ratsun.net video http://community.ratsun.net/topic/42794-how-to-convert-an-open-25-spline-clip-in-r180-to-bolt-in-for-a-510/

I made some more progress on my rear suspension. With the help of this sandblaster, all of my suspension components, except springs and strut towers, have been sandblasted. I can use it for $15/hour with unlimited sand and a massive air compressor that never stops. Total time spent was about 2.5 hours. I was also able to remove the transmission crossmember bushings. Now all that's left for bushing removal is control arm bushings. I successfully removed the original 4-speed. Only injury was a busted lip. I also took the '77 five speed out of its tuff bin and test fitted the shifter. I used to have a close-ratio '83 ZX transmission in the garage, but traded it and decided to keep this one because it looked much cleaner. Just waiting on new sensors from Black Dragon. I quickly discovered after I unwrapped my rebuilt 4.11 R180 that it was a K R180. My original stub axles are bolt it. The K R180 uses clip-in stub axles. After finding some photos from hybridz.org and a helpful video on ratsun.net, I'm took apart the old howling diff for the threaded buttons in the center of the diff to swap into the K R180. The drift pin would not cooperate. I broke a brand new heavy duty punch. My only guess is the diff whine may have created extra heat and seized the drift pin. Note to anyone attempting this, do not use drill bits to try and hammer the pin out as stated in the ratsun.net video. It does not turn out well. Finally, since I only needed parts from the center of the diff, I proceeded to cut the outer casing in half. Hopefully the K R180 will come apart easier since it was recently rebuilt and never run. I still need to clean/paint the strut towers, and paint all rear suspension parts with Rustoleum satin black. I'm also debating on cleaning the underside of the Z and spraying some new undercoating before everything goes back together.