Mudge

1960s pimp mobile.

F54 either has flat tops and is injected, or will be dished and turbo (and injected), the F54 is just the block, it does not state engine configuration. I would not advize a carburated turbo.

Thats exactly what is great about those cars, serious stick to the pavement handling. Long, low and WIDE is how I like them.

Rebuilding to me is basically all new parts, overhall would be prefered to me if the bores check out, new rings/bearings/seals yada yada and thats it. Bores should be checked and then cleaned up with a glaze breaker so the rings will seat, its a budget rebuild basically and on most engines should be fine.

Resonation is a sound thing, I think you mean regulator. The voltage should raise when you raise the RPMs past a certain point, probably around 1000-1500 or so is good enough to test. Is your battery dying on you after driving with lights on or ? What are the symptoms you have that you are troubleshooting the alternator in other words.

Their spelling drives me nuts, the wheels look kind of nice though.

Actually the early US 5 speed should match the 240Z 5 speed, I believe this is correct according to the Haynes I have, this would be a .864 5th gear. I would personally shoot for a 15-17" wheel and no more, I have 15x7" and they are pretty nice overall, but would eventually like a 16x8-10" or possibly a 17x10" if I could get one at a reasonable price point (insert laughter here). Take into consideration going this big requires fender flares and coil overs, not exactly cheap, but for road racing I want the ultimate in grip. Right now with 195/60 15" I dont have nearly enough tire to hold the brakes, otherwise the car handles very very nice.

http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html

www.ccwheel.com/ Wheel sets are around $1600 or so, I wouldn't bother with 7" skinnies, try to find something more readily available and cheaper. You can get 7-8" wide Centerlines for around $400.

No offense dude, but you are absolutely positively talking out of your arse. Mesh styled wheels are almost always going to end up stronger, and lighter than other designs. Ricer wheels? I think not, forged and very lightweight for thier strength, and at a good price. Ricer wheels are overweight, totally different offset, and you wont find any that wide either. These are road race wheels and are highly regarded by Porsche owners just as much as us 240Z ricers. Maybe all you do is cruise around in your car and you dont like racing, thats fine, in the meanwhile let us enjoy being fast.

CCW, Complete Custom Wheels. Awesome car, if you dont like it you dont like road racing cars - too bad

I bought a fan for a Saturn, you can buy a wiring kit for $20-$50 depending on what options you want. You can get a junkyard fan for $5-$20.

The only Subaru LSDs that I know of are R160, ask the seller.

When you look at boosted motors, the piston is almost always different. This is not just about compression, or heads, but also about ringland strength. There are boosted 240 engines out there also, again they end up breaking ring lands with power, if you hit detonation it should be instantaneous or near instant death for the engine, the turbo engine would have a little more leeway but detonating on cast pistons is not advised at all. Ripping off the entire top end and manifolds, and then wiring for the turbo car versus just dropping the engine in and then fixing the wiring, makes just swapping engines look easier. I just did the swap over the weekend in my 240 and removing/reinstalling these engines took a day. Doing the whole top end removal and reassembly could be done in a day, but why all that hassle? Find a complete car and gut it. I got my 280ZXT car for $150 with 70k miles on the clock.

There is a group purchase for a clutch pack unit, $500 instead of $750 or so. Or there is a Quife option for about $1200, which I'll be getting, worm gears instead of clutch pack. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19244