siteunseen

Look at the tensioner. If it's showing a lot of the plunger shaft you probably need to get in there and replace parts.

Well here again I'm at a quandary. Putting one on now that I've gone this far would be a huge bummer but would give me peace of mind. I don't know what I'll do.

That block has been vatted and the oil passages reamed out with a gun cleaning kit. But boy oh boy was I happy to see that! A Dewalt set on low with torque set in the middle and a rod off a paint mixer that I ground flat. Scared for about 10 seconds then my shoes got an oiling. When I took the picture my drill was running at 1/2 "throttle", wide open on low shot it out of the head. Put the cover on and ran it trigger all the way. Thanks for your help Captain. And thanks Blue for that tip on filling the pump from the filter opening.

I don't think you have to pull the motor. The front cover is all (if that ain't enough).

White ones too! That's like putting a Swifter on your baby's bottom.

Very well could be. Here are the old ones off mine. You could pull the valve cover and see down there I beleive.

Me too! Gigidy.

Maybe this fellow, JT240Z, built my motor before I bought it. The purpose is to "sling" oil to lube the timing chain. The part can be left off and is recommended in high RPM engines to be left off. This is not only done by many engine builders, but is even written in the "How to Hotrod Your Nissan" book as a performance build modification. It explains quite well why to leave it off. It comes down to oil return rate and rotational resistance from the large amounts of oil in the timing chain area. Much of the oil returns back to the oil pan via the front timing chain. The slinger kicks the oil back up and keeps the chain bathed in oil at low engine speeds. The problem is it inhibits some of the oil it slings from returning back to the pan. This excessive oil is just generating resistance to rotation. Kind of the same effect as windage in your crank case. Stock trim... It wont mater either way. Me... I've always left it off and have never had a problem. Street or race.

I think it's Acetone and ATF. That works great.

I don't have one or remember having one. My FSM shows an oil thrower. Could there have not been one or did I lose it and my mind? It's an early '77 with a 2 row pulley. MSA has one for $1.70 for '70 thru '83 but no other parts places have a listing, Courtesy either. Will it really cause the crank seal to leak if I don't use one? 3 woodruff keys, chain sprocket on 1st, worm gear on 2nd and the pulley's on the last one. Everything seems nice and snug sitting on an engine stand. Thanks for any help.

Conjecture and guesses are what put men in space. I've set it at #3 and used red loctite, torqued to 100lbs.

I thought you weren't supposed to use coolant at 1st, just water. Just one of the thousands of suggestions I've read. You know better than most of those suggesting though. Can't wait to see some pictures.

I'm with Grant. $10 for 2 filters to start with.

I put my timing stuff on and was very careful. I turned the crank over and now the crank sprocket dimple is 2 links to the left of my bright link. Is this normal? Kinda' seems like it since the crank sprocket has less teeth than the cam sprocket. Motor turned like rubbing panties together.

Would a hose that runs from calipers to hardline on brakes work from the slave cylinder to that hardline? Mine is rotten and I can get a single brake line from rockauto super cheap. They look the same to me. Thanks.

Steve that's pretty much exactly what the mechanic said. Stock engine would benefit most from the cam advance. And won't cost a penny more than what I've got already. Also said if I didn't like the way it ran it would be no problem to go to #1 hole on cam sprocket since the chain is already in the right spot on the crank. But "Don't drop the chain!" I'm sorry to say that I will be doing the reverse of what you suggested, #3 first. Thank you for the reassurance and for reading all that Racer Brown article. It was confusing to me.

Got this email. 50% on some stuff. http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1209248&m=wc&l=en&html=true

I guess I'll expirement with it. If I do what he says then I've got him on the hook. Thank you all for your thoughts. Much appreciated. Cliff

A mechanic friend that I have lots of faith in suggested I install my new timing set at hole #3. Says it will give it a little more umph. His shop has a waiting room with an armoire and a flat screen. Rovers and MBs with engine covers. He started off on Datsuns and said they used to do that a lot that it advances the cam slightly. Any thoughts on this?

And where I messed up was not checking levelness between holes I tapped. The 1st 3 are straight up and down but the last 3 are slightly tilted. Slipped in the vise between the wood. Nobody knows until now.

Here's what mine turned out like using his measurments. No CSV or pressure gauge though. Kept it simple on 1st try.

Write a book. Sorry. You've not left enough info to get answers.

I just put my new cylinder head on. I used anti-seize by permatex and turbo bolts. #9 wouldn't click my torque wrench @62lbs after almost positivley feeling the same as the other 13. I quit as I don't want to be in the same situation your in. Do people retorque after break in?

That's the thing to do, step back and think it over, you'll figure something out. It's almost been 8 months on mine from walking away. Hopefully it's not a car you have to drive. Uh I meant have to use daily. Of course you have to drive it, they hard to push.

I had one broken on mine when I bought it. Head was rolling around my valve assembly. I took the cylinder head off and the bolt was sticking up about 6". Vise griped it. But you may not want to remove the head. It only takes a couple of hours and is cheaper than a welder. Threads are in the block only.