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You know me too well!

To put a period (correct) on this thread I soaked and wiped them with a sponge. Then used Maguire's #7 to revitlize the old paint. The one I did looks good and is still early '70s paint. I didn't want to repaint and have a gold tooth shining when I opened my 52 year old teeth to be seen. I'm happy and the money and time will be put in a box for years but worth it when I sale.

I think it would make an annoying sound if it touches? Try bending like Mr Arnett says but on my 280's 6to1 I had to Dremel the vertical shield to fit. Also the transmission. The header barely made contact and I hate hearing things that don't belong.

I'm thinking you need to remove the heat riser to install the 6to1 and the carb heat shields.

Hey @Diseazd I want your opinion too! Keep the hubcaps old looking but protect them with some wax for 20 years storage. I like Maguire's #7 on old paint. I'm scared I'll go all "Cliff" and over do it, OCD and all that Bud Light. I've made up my mind just typing to you and Cantech Z. Thanks. Cliff

@CanTechZ need some advice. I soaked these caps in Murphy's oil soap and hot water then cleand them with a Scotch brite pad. They cleand up nice. I'm going to wax them with Maguire's #7 to get some color back. I want them to look original from '72 to go with the car when I sale it. My question is, should I spray them with the matte stuff you used or just clean and wax the best I can and be done? I've got an all original car so I don't want too nice of caps popping out when I sale. Thank you for any advice.

I like to say "thou shalt not covet your neighbors donkey" Don't ask to borrow my weedeater you cheapskate Southern Baptist.

Sweet home Alabama! $100 🎁

The flat tops almost make it worth the money. I wonder if has a p79? When I first saw it I thought "great deal" then "carbs and intakes not included".

I said what mine was sitting still in my garage, no air flow except the OE fan. I'm not sure he ever tried that but that would be the same as stand still traffic. This was 3 years ago... California Datsun engine sold to a guy in Panama. Move on, get a honest straight motor. You're walking over $100 bills to pick up a quarter.

Do both but a ceramic header from MSA.

Put a zip-tie around the new tensior to keep it together while you get the chain on. I could only find a ZX kit when I built my 2.4. Worked great but it has different hole spots on the guides. I used the inner holes and got the chain really snug. From what I read you shouldn't be able to see any of the metal on the tensioner when it's all together. Get a new oil pump while you're at it.

I was a Series I for a couple of years. Things changed now I'm a higher Series, a very higher Series.

If you decide to buy the hose from MSA call them and give your CZC.com member ID, 33599 I think and you'll get 10% off.

You can buy a 3/4" PEX coupling for a splice. Only a dollar at any hardware store. Use worm gear clamps or zip-ties to hold it tight.

Down here with all our humidity I keep a couple of stereos in my gun safe that has a dehumidifier built in. It's fire and water proof so the dehumidifier is kinda redundant I always thought. I bought a gun safe dehumidifier from walmart that I use in my 240. Doesn't work very well though. It's filled with silica that turns green when it's moist. Plug it in and overnight it heats up changing back to orange.

The title threw me too. Here's a good thread if you haven't already seen it.

I have the cheaper and more available Fram g2 filter before the OE fender mounted filter. I change the cheap one when I do an oil change. They're just a few dollars.

I bought this 25? years ago. Finally got a real one.

I agree but unfortunately it's a mid-term election year. Mr Putin knew that when he decided to invade.

Looks great! I've racked my brain, "library", but cannot remember anyone say it was easy. You pushed through and it definitely paid off. You might have a side gig?

It's the ground for mine. Shine them up and reattach. Good luck. Cliff Ckuld be the horn pad connections too?

I did. The metal goes on the header, soft side against the head. Soft side against the cylinder head.

That's my story too. I had a Ruf 911 slot car body on a Whisper Jet frame. 20 years later I bought a '82 911SC. Kept it 10 years or so then got my brain back and bought my high school car, #305 280Z. Best decision ever, eh one of the top 10.