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Good news! I carried the 2 expansion plugs for the ends of the block to the machinist today. He said I could get the block tomorrow with a set of chrome moly rings he ordered from Hastings, they're supposed to come in today. He was honing it when I was there then he'll vat it this afternoon, it'll be ready in the morning. YAAAY! I'll paint it this weekend and get the internals put back in. I've decided to use the original E88 for now, he's not started on my E31 yet. I asked about something Madkaw said in another thread about the valves not sealing against the valve seats. He said he puts the valve seats in and then does a 3 way cut on them to match the valves, no worries on that. Then I asked about the .190 lash pads, would I need to source smaller sizes for him. I never thought of this but he says the cam kits come with the tallest pad needed and he has to mill the others down to size.

You can't see it post #22 either? I quoted #21 and it shows the same picture in both, Chrome. I'll copy and paste it below. Shows up for me, and after looking I can see it has been sprayed with aluminum pain, not bead blasted.

Also the exhaust fan switch for those Mexican restaurant nights.

I have some friends with Harleys, they have those nice trailers too. Mount an air conditioner on top like an RV, have generators and an RV type toilet. Put cabinets and a loveseat, AeroBed mattress. They stay in the trailers instead of hotels and love it.

Has that head been bead blasted? I want to do mine with glass bead and have it look like that. Thanks, Cliff

My E31 had bronze seats, I posted a picture and got a reply from Blue. I had a problem and didn't even know it. Thanks Blue, they're being replaced now.

I've never heard beer called "parts" before, that's a good one. Did you place your order with the local QT?

I thought about your Harlequin the other day at a restaurant when I saw this picture. I know one named Diesel, absolutely the biggest dog I've ever seen. He barks, you freeze.

That's funny you asked, we just talked about the carpet changes. Post #10, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51630-z-car-source-carpet-and-seat-kits/ 195/70-14" is what mine had.

Good deal. Getting the race in there was a little tricky without a press.

He's 7 hours ahead of me so 8am here is 3pm there which is awful close to 5 o'clock.

Nastitties at Nascar races.

That's a good point, Jim. I replaced my front bearings and didn't torque the big nut down to spec, which is very little, I just tightened it until the rotor was solid and spun freely. After a couple of trips I heard a bumping noise, took the wheels off and sure enough the rotors were wobbly. Torqued them down then, lesson learned for future brake jobs. Another instance I used the FSM for specs.

From 6am until about 8am for me, then it's back to the house. Very little traffic on the weekends at that time of day and I don't have to use my lights. A Bloody Mary for breakfast helps.

Hopefully it's loose pads, cheap loose pads. That spring like thing that goes under the pins could've come loose?

If you keep the solid black wheels, I'd keep the black bumpers too. I like the chrome from futofab.com on mine but I've got polished lipped Konig Rewinds that go good with them. Tough choice, but you've made some damn good decisions so far.

You want to trade houses for awhile? I'll pay the airfares! It's 100 outside and I've got to mow my lawn today, rain is on the way thank goodness.

I copy the posts and paste them into an email to myself when I want to keep info I've read. There's probably a better way I'm sure but that works and is quick.

Well the parts were for shipping only and the rear bumper would have to come off to get the hooks off. It'd be like buying a new car with the protective film still stuck to the hood, roof and trunk.

So you kept the hold down hooks on your's too? I have removed mine after I read their original purpose was for shipping, not towing. But since learning that I see a lot of restored cars still have them. Originality I suppose, but I read the dealerships just didn't take them off. I guess that's why the dealer prep fee was only $75.

Has it ever ran for any amount of time? just short runs then it sputters out? Mine was doing that when I first bought it. It was a crudded up fuel tank. It'd run long enough to clog the filters then leave me stranded somewhere in the neighborhood. To confirm this you can run the fuel lines into a small gas can and bypass the tank. I strapped one in front of the radiator, 2.5 gallon jug, and drove very slowly around the neighborhood for about an hour without any problems. I would put in a ZX distributor with electronic ignition and get rid of those points. It's easy to do and cost me about $150. $100 for a remanned distributor and $50 for the ZX coil, ZX cap and plugs from amazon.com. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

I went to check in with my machinist today. He has the block done and is waiting on moly plasma rings from Hastings. He wants the expansion core plugs for the front and rear of the block, I'll put the sides in after painting it. Promised to have the block ready before the July 4th holidays. I'm going to put one of the E88 heads on there for now. I might get the E31 and cam kit back from him and send it to someone else, I have the feeling he doesn't want to mess with setting it up. I've learned a valuable lesson from this, I should never say "Take your time, I'm in no rush". I told him that in February thinking I'd have it by April or at least May, WRONG! Nice guy though so pitching a fit wouldn't speed him up any, probably wizz him off and make things even slower. He's the only guy in town. Sorry to post my work in your thread but it was quicker to find.

Did you have to thin that chassis paint much? Seems pretty thin already and from I read on their website they recommend 5% acetone. I usually do 30% to 50% on most other paints. I use a gravity HVLP gun to spray a bunch of light coats, maybe that's why I have to thin it down so much? Thanks for any tips.