siteunseen

Some fiberglass drywall joint tape and ABS cement works great so far! Only time will tell.

Zed Head, I'm glad you and I friends. 8^)

Thank you sir! More questions to follow...

While adjusting my carbs that hose is open to the atmosphere. Should I plug it or just leave it open? Thanks in advance.

Cracked skirts would make ME smoke! A crack up in a skirt would make me smile though. 8^)

Is "badassss beer"available over the counter or under the counter? The kind I get has no label just Sharpie marks on the caps. And doesn't come from the closet 7-11.

Sorry about this for you Guy. I've read many of your post talking about him.

You may want to look at the rubber in the transmission mount. I found one of mine had no rubber left but it wasn't just the shifter wobbling, the transmission was bumping up and down against the crossmember. But your's probably is what Dennis says. Here's something to read, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html Not mine but close. A new one,

I do, or rather it drives me. Gas and oil, that's it. Can't hear the motor, can talk on the phone (speaker phone of course) freeze the windows over from the inside and about 80% of the red light stops there's one just like it. I hate it and love it both.

From Hasting Rings; STARTING PROCEDURE 1. Set tappets, adjust carburetor and ignition timing as accurately as possible before starting engine. 2. Start engine and set throttle to an engine speed of approximately 25 miles per hour (trucks, tractors and stationary engines one-third throttle) until the engine coolant reaches normal operating temperature. Then shut down engine and retorque cylinder head bolts, recheck carburetor adjustments, ignition timing and valve tappet clearance. (Run engine at fast idle during warm-up period to assure adequate initial lubrication for piston rings, pistons and cylinders.) BREAK-IN PROCEDURE 1. Make a test run at 30 miles per hour and accelerate at full throttle to 50 miles per hour. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 50 miles per hour at least ten times. No further break-in is necessary. If traffic conditions will not permit this procedure, accelerate the engine rapidly several times through the intermediate gears during the check run. The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating. Where I live we have some pretty good mountains not too far away from home. I have always read and been told to pull the hills and not get over 3,000 rpms then go back down the hill letting the gears slow the car, not using the breaks. Don't hold a steady RPM, run it up and then let the gears slow it down. The engine decelerating itself forces the rings out against the cylinder walls, I was told that on my first rebuild and followed that and have good compression. I believe in the "break it in like you're going to drive it". Don't baby it.

Looking forward to your update. After I get my electrical upgrades from Dave Irwin the rear disc from zcardepot.com is next.

Thanks for all the replies.

I hope you get $5,000 for your car.

The more I drink the more I think. I shoulda' drank more in elementary school. That thing is more zippy on account of the aluminium flywheel. The a/c fast idle connecting arm off the front carb is hitting the heat shield. I'll either have to cut it or the heat shield. More thoughts, more beer. 8^) Mowing grass is better than smoking it.

25 minutes at 2,000 rpm, finally! And it's got some snap to it. Exhaust was massive amount of air, no smoke either. 8^) It ran hot but not too far past the right leg of the M in TEMP. That's hot for mine too. I deleted all the stuff off the balance tube so I had to pop the plastic marble off the pedal. It wouldn't get lower than 2400 at first. I'll figure all that out later. It's Miller time now! I'm gonna get on my mower. Thanks for the help guys. As always I couldn't have done it without help from the forum. Cliff

Talked with Bruce at Ztherapy and Jeff G. I'm not drilling a hole in my thermostat yet. Wait to see what happens first.

I have a house and a 3 car garage with an apartment on top. I'm single and spend most of my time in the garage so I live back here and rent my house out. The renters pay my mortgage and homeowners insurance plus a little extra for my pocket. Luckily, fortunately or thank God according to my Mom, I quit all my evil ways in '06 and moved into the apartment and rented the house out. FBI moved in next door in '08. He keeps me from doing anything stupid again. My garage is the red circle and my rental is in front to the right. He lives to the left. It can be nerve racking but we're adults, he's on the property line not me.

Chilton's and Haynes are not very useful I've learned too. Thank Goodness for the internet!

Haaaahaaa ha! Alpha males are right even when they're wrong. I remember my outboard had a cavitation plate above the prop to keep from "spinning out" with air. I'm just coming in from being downstairs all day doing small stuff. I get zoned out on something simple and waste time. I'm going to have some cold refreshments and enjoy some solitude. My next door neighbor, 30 feet from my den to his, is gone to the beach for a week. Nice guy but he's a damn FBI agent and a serious one at that. Surround sound will be theater loud tonight! I'll read up in the morning on thermostat jiggle valves when I can sit down with my laptop. Smart phones kinda suck when researching. Thank you Zed Head. 8^)

What would it hurt to snip that little stopper off a thermostat? I feel like I need some flow before the thermostat opens. Is that dumb dumb thinking? I'm famous around these parts for that!

I point my ramps out to the side of the car on the rears when I'm under mine. I've put cement walking pavers under the ramps flat area for more height. Tried 4" solid cap blocks first but my floor jack wouldn't go high enough. I used a motorcycle jack I have to lower my transmission down then I couldn't get all that out from under my car! Slid it off the jack then drug it out from under the car. Learned the hard way that day.

Could you tell me whether or not I should drill a small hole into my thermostat other than the small one it has now? The one that has some type of lug hanging down and points away from the engine. Thank you for any advice. I filed my radiator this morning and clamped the over flow hose off then blew into the cap hole until my eyes started watering. And lucky me found a leak I never knew about before. The lower thermostat housing had a pin hole that leaked oh so slightly. I filled it with water resistant epoxy putty. I'm waiting for it to harden then will sand and file the excess off. Thanks again.

Here's that thread Mark's referring to,

I'd load onto my truck and carry it to a transmission shop. I had a local shop take two of mine and make one good one, new seals and gaskets when they put it back together. $100 charge, I gave him $125. That doesn't look good to me but maybe it's not that bad.

Here's Blue's friend George, Dr. 240Z, if you want to message him, http://www.classiczcars.com/profile/27035-dr-240z/?tab=activity About Dr. 240Z Rank Registered User Birthday12/23/1950 Profile Information LocationNew Brunswick Canada Real NameGeorge Findlay OccupationDentist (Retired) About My CarsHLS3018859 (red, std): Purchased on May 11, '71 inKitimat.BC. My first car. Recently refurbished with many thanks to CZCC member, 'Blue', without whose wisdom, resourcefulness and fortitude it would not be what is today.