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It hasn't ever felt hot enough to cause damage but I've not grabbed it after any long running time. I'll keep check on it now that it's so close to the paint. Thanks for reminding me. It sticks out kinda goofy far but I don't mind as long as it doesn't soot up the rear. It does spit out a few drips of moisture, I wonder what causes that?

I see pretty decent 280s for $5,000 and less but I agree, they're only going up. That looks close to $3,000 maybe?

I wonder if the 280 exhaust would work better with the r200? Mine is the r180. I will look under my 280 and see what the difference is, it has the same set up from MSA.

I love those things! My Grand Dad gave me those 20 years ago, he said they were house levelers.

I got the speedo connection leak stopped. After doing what I did I took it for a short blast around my neighborhood, then put clean newspapers under there and they were spotless this morning. Yaaay! New oil seal in the pinion gear housing and an oring on the outside of the housing. My rubber top hat looking washer was still in good shape,amazingly. There is a groove that oil seal seats into too, didn't realize that at first. Soaked it in lacquer thinner overnight then used a wire brush on my Dremel to get down inside and clean it out then I used a deep well socket to drive it down.

That's what my Dad said when I said something about guys in there with shorts and sandals on. Times have changed, that's for sure.

The hanger on the front of the S pipe works better attached to the driver's side of the cars bracket, you can see where I had it on the other side before and that was pulling it towards the passengers side. The hanger at the very back can be pushed up and held in place through the 2nd hole from the bottom, I cut the top 2 holes in the rubber off. It pulled the chrome tip right up next to the cut out but it's not touching our rattling. Moving the hangers up as far as I could allowed the pipe to fit snug up against the crossmember with the hump cut out. And further back, tight up against the moustache bar?? I don't know what that's called but it's at the rear of the differential. It's not perfect but damn close. Saved me some money too.

A guy is/was selling that set up, tokicos and eibach springs for $500 on Atlanta Craig's list. new in the boxes.

I got that problem whipped but it whipped me too. I've taken some pictures of a couple of things that made a big difference in getting it tight up against the underside of my car. In my opinion the hangers are welded on facing the wrong way. Once I realized they were pulling it towards the passenger's side I was able to to correct that and that's when it lined up in the hump and tight against the differential. I'll get those posted later today. Hopefully they may help somebody. I feel like I just flew in from Albuquerque and boy are my arms sore. 8^)

Generic directions; Tools needed: 1/2" & 9/16" wrenches and/or sockets, small bottle jack. Step 1, don't get in a hurry and rush the exhaust installation Step 2, refer to step 1 I got excited and wanted to fire that little baby up! I hastily installed it the easiest way which was using the top hole in the hanger straps. Now I've gone back and using the bottle jack am able to tuck it tight up against the car. The mid and S pipe flange is no longer the lowest point on my car. I was about to let the muffler guy do it but working on these cars is my hobby so taking it to someone is my last resort.

Here's what I read, http://zhome.com/History/BlackP.htm

I did a lot of reading on Shell's Rotella T oil as an alternative to the VR-1. It supposedly has 1400 ppm of zinc and after a couple of oil changes the valve train is a shiny as the day I bolted it down 4 years ago. It doesn't leave the dark brown spots like the others have and reads to be a cleaning type oil and I believe it now after using it myself. Do you think that's from cheap oil or never changing it? Maybe both?

I've seen a Black Pearl sales brochure on the internet before. If you haven't seen that you should try to google/images the phrase. I remember the 2nd mirror, aluminum wheels and hood pinstripe pictures.

Does anyone know of a way to tell if a motor has been removed before? I've checked the wire/speedo cable looms and they look untouched. I'm thinking it's the originally installed motor and judging by the pedal rubber the 23,000 odometer reading is really only 123,000 miles. I'm working on a sales ad. I don't want any wrong info so I'm trying to figure this out. Thanks for any tips.

I've been working on a 240 that I never drive and am getting ready to sale. Sunday I adjusted the timing and the carburetors. It runs better than ever from what I remember. The timing was at 5 degrees BTDC, I ran it up to 10 BTDC and it seems to run much better at 10. Then I was reading the FSM this morning, I do things bass ackwards, and noticed the timing for a non US car is 17 BTDC. Why is there such a big difference, 5 here and 17 in Japan? What would the other owners recommend for the timing at 800 RPM?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic08a02a

If I could still read them. You know how all those last warm sips & spit drip out and to the bottom of the trash can, gnats flying all around as you dig. 8^)

Yeah it's hard to make it right. I think between the front and rear flange bolt holes and the range of movement on the muffler you have plenty of opportunity for error. As bad as I hate to admit it, directions may have been useful.

It looks great! You can see some spotting on mine. Maybe if wasn't using the flash they wouldn't have shown up so obvious? I do think the Dupli-Color you found is better for what we're doing. The next one I paint will be with the "Ford color Dark Shadow Gray". My red one is a lot different looking. It had already been painted when I bought the car.

I'm almost positive anything built during or after September of a year is considered the "new year model". My '77 was built in 09/76. But I'm no expert on history and facts of these cars, just what I read.

I stayed under there as long as I could stand it, or actually as long as I could lay it. That "S" pipe needs bending and the flange that bolts it to the long tunnel pipe is what scrapes. It's the lowest point. I'm hoping he can cut the flange off and weld it right there. I gotta guy. 8^) Thank you all for your suggestions. Cliff

I don't have it up in the air but I see what I'm going to have to do. I've got set up so the muffler tucks up in as best it can, but it won't scrape my driveway. I'm going to move the muffler to get the inlet at it's highest point and pull that pipe over towards the driver's side into the hump. That's the plan after reading this thread, The muffler will be opposite from this picture, the way it is now.

Yeah, I should have added a picture or two. 8^( That's what it's not doing, going the 2.5" up into that hump. It's very close to the ground and I've already scraped it a little bit. I have to fix this. I'll try looking with better eyes this morning and get some photos. Everything else is perfect.

That is awesome. Love the face!

I can't get my pipe to go through the upside down C tunnel below the differential. Anybody run into this or is it just me installing it wrong? Thanks for anything.