siteunseen

I live in the North. Under 50 & I stay inside eating chili and quietly (sometimes) farting.

Thanks to Leon I bought a stock clutch instead of the high dollar Centerforce. Mine's easy to drive once I get out of the garage and up my driveway, that's all it takes to get the feel. I asked about what clutch with my Tilton aluminum flywheel in a thread I started. Wise man Leon said "stock unless you like wasting money".

I have them on my 240. Go to amazon.com and put your car info in, it'll tell you which ones you need. I can't say they're any better for street use but they sure look good through my wheels. I can post a pic when I get home. I used some Wagner ceramic pads. Good price and no squeal.

Looks promising. I wanted ask you if you've read or seen someone putting a switchable valve in the engine bay that would bypass the core until cold weather? I'm almost positive I read where somebody did that in the past. I'm not using my laptop at the moment or I could search around. Any thoughts or have you heard of this? I'm pretty sure it was a 240 because those allow some hot air releasing in the cabin when you don't need any. Maybe it was an A/C thread?

I'm a little worried about those lousy cork-soakers tendency to leak. I've already bought the parts so I'll give it a shought but if it leaks, I'm done with it.

Nice looking interior dmoralesbello. I have a ZX short shift rod I used when I switched transmissions, 4sp to a 5sp in my 240. I hated that thing's position but I liked the way it popped back to the neutral position when I moved it out of gear. I may try what you've done someday, looks like something I might could do. Wheee here's a good read if you haven't already, http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPageTransmission.htm

I'm getting ready to replace the hoses and "**** water" valve on my 240's heater core. I'm going to pressure test it somehow before I go to all the trouble of installing new parts. My question is, does the heater core build up as much pressure as the radiator after I shut the car down? I know the radiator cap will blow off if I loosen it while hot. I'm on the fence about hooking it back up knowing there's a high pressure, high temp bomb behind my radio. Thanks for any help.

Great SS bolt kit! I recently used the complete engine kit and will again, well worth $100.

Read the ad!! K&N Performance Air Filter, 73-74 240Z-260Z Description: This is a great upgrade to the stock air filter for late 240Z's, 260Z's, or any Z that is running the Hitachi (flat top) carburetors and the stock 73-74 housing. This filter measures 2 inches thick as shown above. Model Guide: Datsun 240Z, 260Z Code Guide: Datsun S30 Year Guide: 1973, 1974

Run your carbs up to 1,000 rpm. A lot easier to drive and more oil flowing plus you have A/C, right?

I apologize for not giving you the credit. You get a standing ovation for that work of art! I only wish it had worked. I linked the address bar instead of your post.

Now you have.

I forgot to put my oil slinger on my 280 when I rebuilt it 4 years ago. No problems at all. With the car running and looking at the belt from the alternators side does/did it look off center? I had to add a washer to the top mounting bolt to line mine up straight.

Seems like you've been down this road before. Did you ever correct the problem or just move on to another problem as usual?

Found this through google/images. Maybe you can figure it out by comparing yours? That Tom Monroe book is the best! ZX and Z oil pickup comparison. ZX is on the left and is a bit longer to clear the baffles in the AZCar cast oil pan.

In the morning when you first crank it, remove the radiator cap. Let the motor get up to temp. You should see coolant flowing across the radiator. It will burp some fluid out and then settle down. The coolant level should be at the bottom of the filler hole and moving constantly, even more when you rev the motor. I can assure you blocking off the flow through the intakes will not increase the coolant temp. My car and dozens of others have this done without problem. The '70 & '71s didn't have that coolant circuit at all. My bet is low coolant level and air in the system. You need a meat thermometer in the radiator while the car warms up. They're a couple of dollars here and available at grocery stores. You can prop them around the thermostat housing as well as the cylinder head for a true temperature reading. Your Mom probably has one in a kitchen drawer.

I couldn't be happier with that commutative property suggestion!

Russian hackers! That was a good informative post too. Damn jackwads.

And a Merry Christmas to us all! Please replace the fuel rail with rubber fuel hose. it's proven to help with percolation of fuel, as per Jeff G an automotive engineer with a race team that uses the 240Z.

Maybe it's not the original after all. It has clear plastic caps and it seems the OE were Tokico or Nabco with metal caps like my 280. No big deal, originality was lost long ago. The ones I'm seeing all look the exact same, priced from $45 to $100.

Have we met?

I wanted to be able to find this again so I've added a post. Great information to know. Thanks.

It's like the harder you pluck a guitar string the louder it is.

Ouch! That's gonna be a minor PITA. Put one of those thick Mustang ones in next.