siteunseen

GLAND, NUTS and TONGUE? Chicka dow now...

Looks comfortable! Good luck with the sale.

I first saw a guy do it on antique door hinges and doorknobs. I'd like to have a book of tricks and shortcuts but the infonet does pretty good. 8^)

I coated the chrome writing on my emblems with Vaseline to keep the black from sticking. Horn pad to.

If you haven't read it yet Hardway has a good write up on emblems. Car looks great!

Me to! Are those the ones I posted? I like how they blend into the rubber on your bumpers.

Seems like a lot of people are looking now. Springtime I guess. Sharp car should go quick. I'll trade you some boulders or a lounge chair for it.

Take the shift rod out and look for fresh scratches above the bottom end. That's what my 5 speed did after putting in place of the four speed. The bottom gears, fourth and reverse, your shifter might not be going far enough forward when you pull it back. It will have a scratch on the front side of the shift rod right above that little plastic cup. To me it sounds like the BCDD needs adjusting if it drops when you push the clutch in. Or the throttle position vane isn't making contact with the idle side? Could be a spider web keeping it from contact.

Looks good compared to my badly faded #305 blue. After you wash it remember to raise the hatch and dry off the latch area. The rain gutters on the sides don't go all the way down and water gets in. Here's my "Blue Jean Blues" faded Z.

Great timing for @jfa.series1 joke. Kid digs through a huge pile of manure because he knows "there's gotta be a pony under there!"

Try a new set of plugs, bp6es.

Looks good! You are on the downside of the hill now, congratulations and it goes to show how persistence and asking for help pays off.

I had to put a small bottle jack under the front tires and push them waaaay up in the fender wheel to get mine on. After I got everything bolted up I dropped it down on the ground and torqued the nuts.

Hopefully you can find a nice replacement faceplate. You have a lot of hard work completed on your dash area. A nice faceplate would be icing on the cake.

A silver Sharpie paint pen on the radio's face plate works great. Thanks again @psdenno

"I tried to take it back Boss"

Opening and closing the choke before he starts it drops the nozzles and they refill with fuel right? I pull mine all the way back and crank it, let it run for a minute or two and then go half choke. Drive out of my neighborhood which takes about 2 or 3 minutes then get on the main roads and close the choke. I think his choke time is close to what I do and he's worried for no reason. From all his past post he wants someone to say YES or NO. So can you or anybody else tell him YES or NO? Everything I've ever had with a manual choke has been different. My Exmark mower has to be choked EVERYTIME I crank it no matter how hot it is. I can run it for an hour and turn it off for 5 minutes and it won't crank with out choking it. I guess it needs the throttle blade closed to pull the fuel in? Jalex do you have to choke it throughout the day or just first thing in the morning? Do you let your pump run for a couple of seconds to fill the lines and float bowl or do you immediately crank your car? If you read the definition of "choke" I think you'll ease your head/mind.

Did stopping the hot water fix your percolation or whatever was causing it from "stuck in traffic" you kept on complaining about? If it did, move on. If it didn't run the rubber fuel rail as was suggested umpteen times, change the carbs back and don't use the choke if it bothers you that bad. 45 year old car remember.

I like your's better! Sounds like real life. Psychiatrist with horse $^!# in there office? More like the psychiatrist's own $^!#.

Never heard that one before, funny! Pretty sure I would be considered an optimist. Next the psychiatrist took the optimist to a room piled highwith horse manure. The boy yelped with delight, clamberedto the top of the pile, and joyfully dug out scoop after scoop,tossing the manure into the air with glee. "What on earth are you doing?" the psychiatrist asked. "Well,” said the boy, beaming "...there's gotta be a pony in there somewhere!"

Here's his web-site http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/

I used these two on the different builds, couldn't tell any big difference. You'll need this too in a few places And this on most all my gaskets just to hold them in place while I put things together And most of all, use this on all your threads Oh yeah, some Loc-tite

I refurbished my combo switch to get my dash lights back. Only broke one tab. 8^) Dave Irwin would've been a better choice but I was young and dumb, broke too. Very little has changed except more candles on my cake.

I have a quite a few from my rebuild in a folder. Manifold gasket, rear main seal, intake washers, oil pan gasket, and more I'm sure from Nissan. Bearings, rings, oil pump, timing kit and a bunch of other stuff from rockauto.com. Water pump, clutch kit and fluids from amazon.com. The 2.8 motor I have was a lot easier to get parts for. 2.4 was more difficult in my opinion. First thing to buy is How to Rebuild Your Nissan L Motor by Tom Monroe. amazon.com, $20. I'll dig through that file and see what I have. I don't know if there's a check list, I've not seen one. Zcardepot.com has a complete bolt kit that I used instead of cleaning and reusing the old ones. That was nice. He may have a rebuild kit too? zcarsource.com has one I think, MSA may also. Most folks do a rebuild thread on here, read a couple of those for paint and other tips. The motor mounts from Nissan are high dollar but are right. Aftermarket ones need a little adjusting but will work and way cheaper. We'll be here for help.

Gettin' ready for them little Z cars all over Austin I see!