siteunseen

I had Zs in high school and then a water cooled 944 when I was 21. Then graduated to an air cooled 911 when I was 29. After my ego fell to my common sense I got back into Zs at 40. Best decision for me, I enjoy working on my Z as much as driving it. Here's my view, are you willing to pay or do you want to do some work yourself? Newer Porsches aren't very friendly for DIY'ers from all I've heard. My '82 SC was a simple 911 and it was a pain to work on.

Here's one in Michigan for $350, supposedly. http://www.car-part.com/ 1982 Transmission Assembly Nissan 280 ZX MT, w/o turbo; 2 passenger,MANUAL TRANS,RWD,178K 10723 $350 M-45 Auto Parts, Inc. USA-MI(West-Olive) Request_Quote 1-800-214-2472 Request_Insurance_Quote 585

I'd forgotten about that movie. Thank you Captain O.

I believe this is where @Zedyone_kenobi found his. It wouldn't go into gear and they talked him through the fix over the phone, IIRC. Looked really good too. http://www.zcarsource.com/manual-5-speed-turbo-t-5-transmission-280zx-81-83-rebuilt_8_56430_197417.html

If you can still get one? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ0/2321/02257.oap?year=1978&make=Nissan&model=280Z&vi=1209260&ck=Search_cylinder+head_1209260_1075&keyword=cylinder+head

2 door

zcardepot.com has a good inventory of Z parts, A+ business. Stay away from datsunpartsllc.com and californiadatsun.com. same guy, many names to try to avoid bad reputation from being an Ebay seller. Old user name "urgelous", LMAO

If you find a machine shop they could remove that rear stud for you, likely for not much money. I had the same problem with mine, I kept drilling with step up sized bits until it broke into pieces. The heat expands the stud then when it cools down it shrinks a little so if you heat it with mapp gas let it cool down before the Easy out. I buggered the hole pretty good but fortunately my local Nissan dealership had the next size bigger stud that went in perfect. After reading I decided to use the bigger stud in the front hole too, under the thermostat. The header I bought from MSA has those two holes bigger than the rest but I'm not sure about the OE exhaust manifold? but you could always drill it out bigger. Here's the bigger stud from Nissan next to the original size.

I've never removed the oil plugs, just the freeze plugs. Those four allen plugs on the head are casting plugs or plugs for access holes when they built the head. I tried to remove one once, wouldn't budge then i found out there's no benefit in removing them. The cam tower locating dowels should be fine, if they get in the way for some reason the machinist will pull them out. You can take pliers and squeeze them in a little and twist them out but you need to get them back to their proper shape before reinstalling. I'd leave them be. Those rocker arm adjusting studs can stay also. The only sides that I've ever seen flat were the bottom and the intake side. There's a lot of machine shops in North Georgia area familiar with the L head, truthfully most any shop that's been in business for 25 plus years is familiar with these motors they just haven't worked on one in a long time and have to be talked into it, $$$$ and plenty of time to do the work, at least that's the way it is around here. I would buy this book if you haven't already, it's a step by step instruction guide that's easy to understand. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_9?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1479222354&sr=1-9&keywords=tom+monroe Here's some good info too, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

That looks very similar to the Xenon spoiler that MSA sales. Check jegs.com too, they have good prices and free shipping.

That sounds really cool ! I'd like to hear a good roll on if you know somebody with a fast enough car.

I checked all of mine and .105" is the largest diameter I have. Your more than welcome to a few feet of it. I could get 10' in an envelope. Let me know. Cliff

Another thing I forgot to mention. The '77s had a recall for the EGR coupler to the intake manifold. Mine was never corrected and caused the aluminum intake to rot out all around that thing over the years, HUGE vacuum leak. You can take a mirror see under the back end and underside of the intake where the EGR connects to the intake.

Yeah, neat story, "rolling restoration" is a lot more fun to me. Do a few things and drive it for awhile. I'm scared to do too much, afraid someone's gonna run into me and total the car. I need struts on my '77 also, push the front bumper down and it almost bounces the front tires off the ground rebounding so fast, but I'm like you and will have to pay someone to do that. Keep trudging along and you'll never be bored.

I chased the "lean stumble" for a month after a complete rebuild and all new fuel system. Probably spent $2,000 and my car would spit and buck like crazy. A friend of mine clamped off the return fuel line to the tank, it ran much better so I put the potentiometer inline and in cabin like Zed Head says. Finally have the newish running car I worked so hard on. If your's has the high PSI you posted your under hood fuel lines should be as hard as a rock. I would pull the hose off the fuel filter and run the pump into a catch can just to see how the pressure and volume are. Sounds to me more like clogged fuel injectors. Anyway, good luck. This might be worth reading too, "quieting a noisy pump", http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html A cheaper pump option, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/upgrade/index.html Here's the whole EFI page, there's a lot on here that will be helpful, most of this is done to a '77 too. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm I bought one of the last OE Bosh's, I guess, for about $250 5 years ago. haven't seen another one anywhere online since. Now they are all Beck Arnley. https://www.google.com/search?q=Beck+Arnley+152-0253+Fuel+Pump+-+Electric&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=Beck+Arnley+152-0253+Fuel+Pump+-+Electric&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Here's some poly replacements from zcardepot.com if you can't get OEM. https://zcardepot.com/driveline/transmission/transmission-crossmember-poly-mount-bushings.html

It's behind the rear carb, in the red circle. The line starts under the rear spark plugs and goes behind the motor into the rear intake through to the front intake. Then into the thermostat housing. I posted a picture showing where I plugged mine. Not sure if its in this thread or one of your others. I plugged mine in four places but you could just do the two ends of the coolant flow for testing.

How about a new video? Chirping into 4th? I have an old compressed air boat horn I crack with the windows down when I'm shifting. No chirp just a "whooooop". Freaks out dogs and kids!

My eyes. 8^( I asked if he had plugged the coolant line through the carbs and he responded "yes" in those 7 pages. I'm trying to participate whether they like it or not. and doing the best I can. We're all learning and contributing that will help us all, IMHO. Participation a two way street Jalex.

Have you seen the pick-up they're wanting to sale? Nicest one I've ever seen! Maybe they'll build it in Northport, AL and coach Saban can sale it at his Birmingham dealership. Country folks driving an MB and tailgating with it. That'd be great having all these Alabama fans switching from F-150s because HCS drives one. "Something people love 'bout a pick-up truck" Alan Jackson.

I'm thinking he's out of California? And that's part of the LLC name. Just a guess though.

If you do have to remove the console take you're time, they crack easy around the choke lever slot. Remove the screws on the sides then the ones in the rear console part. There's two electrical connections you'll need to unplug to the left of the radio. One is the choke light and the other is the defrost and seat belt lights. When you get the screws out lift it from the rear and remove the screws holding the choke lever from underneath, 2 I think. Oh yeah you'll need a small screwdriver to get the choke handle off, very small like a jeweler's screwdriver. I didn't know and went to pulling and yanking (giggity) and broke my choke holder. Once you get those things unhooked, lift it up from the rear and pull it out towards the back of the car. It's easy just take your time.

That's funny! Reminds me of my Dad saying remove the radiator cap and drive another car underneath it.

Yes. Here's the outer boot, under the leather, Then the one that covers the transmission hole, Thanks Blue for the pictures! I'm glad the Tech Tips are available again, makes illustrating things much easier.

You have 175F to 200F running through your carburateurs. Fuel boils anywhere from 100F to 400F. This is helpful for carburateurs in cold climates but if the thermostat doesn't close it could bring unnecessary heat into the carbs. There's mention of it in the '72 FSM, according to this reply. " The manual also states that if the thermostat fails to close in hot weather, carb percolation may occur." Z Therapy says plug it, I've plugged mine as well as Beer Man Pete (I followed his instructions). I'm going to borrow Namerows disclaimer: IMPORTANT: If you are in any way concerned about your ability to do this type of work safely and successfully on your own, do not attempt it. Instead, get a licensed mechanic to do it for you.