siteunseen

If you remove it and sand all the old fuel/varnish off the shaft it should work fine. Good luck. Ps make sure those hoses are still pliable and soft that go from the nozzle to the float chamber. I've got some new ones from nissan if you need the p/n. They're J shaped thin wall hoses. Nothing else will work very well.

I think it's been long enough, Mark if it hasn't send me a fart in jar, but Mark thought you were the actor on those hotel.com commercials. That's funny to me because I'd guess the same. https://nutmegcreative.com/blog/meet-captain-obvious-brandon-moynihan/

Right turn in the US but who in the heck is that? Mork from Ork? Shazbot

I bought a fuel sending unit and the o-ring from local Nissan dealership, $45 IIRC. The heater core valve and hoses are still available too. Plastic rivets all over the interior panels and the rear finisher around the tag and rear lights still available too. Rubber grommets for evap hoses coming in from the rear plus they're used on the heater hoses on the firewall still available. I have a good bit of OE Nissan part numbers in my file. You'd be amazed at what the dealers can still get for almost 50 year old cars. Zcardepot.com has all the stuff too. If you need something just ask. The best way I've found to search our forum is Google whatever and put classiczcars.com at the end. You'll get tons of info.

A charged battery with all the plugs out of the head will let you get a reasonable number on the compression gauge. Enough to know if you have a bad cylinder. A gas can in front of the radiator for the suction fuel hose to the pump worked for me while my tank was out. Run a smaller return line off the fuel rail in it too. After I got it running, a couple of bungee cords to hold the gas can let me drive it around the neighborhood.

Yeah, me too! I'm sorry but I thought he was talking about a $15K paint job. I read from the bottom up. Lazy habit but I'm trying to do better.

If it's been sitting awhile I'd make sure all the carb parts are moving freely, nozzles dropping and raising back all the way. The oil levels are right in the domes etc.

This was most helpful for me on my 240. Got a lot of info but ended up using Red-Kote like I did on my 280 whisc I used this other link. Confusing, I know. I just woke up. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

@Zedyone_kenobi is selling his roadster. He might sale his silver with red interior 240? @Hardway also looking for new projects. He has or had a nice silver one too.

Great to have an experienced wrencher, restorer on here. Welcome. Looking forward to your post. Cliff California Datsun?

HaHaHa! 'Ole Hoover bag.

I believe you've found the winner Granny. If it was blue with white stripes, definitely.

I use mine as a kitchen cabinet.

I wonder if @rossiz sold his EFI stuff yet?

Cheap oven cleaning foam works good on the first lap, the heavy crud layer. Then media blasting. If you get the heavy stuff off first you'll be able to reuse the blast material. Run it through a screen though.

This is what I ended up buying after wasting money on smaller stuff. Then this for small stuff...

Congratulations! The next ones will be rotors and pads, a little easier. You'll learn some neat things on here, colorful grammar too.

Me too! (78 yesterday ?)

If you take a screwdriver and turn this gear up? I think, it will tighten the shoes by spreading them further apart. First I would pull the emergency brake up a few times. That should get them tighter. You'll know by how far the handle comes up after a couple of pulls. Should be less and less with each pull.

$101 paper weight for now but one day...woo hoo!

I did away with all that stuff on my '77. Here's a picture of the plugged throttle body.

It's a reproduction https://zcardepot.com/products/engine-splash-pan-guard-240z

That's a good idea there, 240260280. Do you have to drive it like that or is all measured in the gravel driveway?

Very nice! The corks from Grey Goose are useful in many ways.