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I wonder why they aren't accredited with the better business bureau? I hope I never have to deal with them but it makes me wonder why. I could hire one of the many attorneys available. Thank you for your input, I'll read up on that. Could be a marketing ploy by Hagerty?

Halloween is near. Costume it up, maybe you'll win the best category and some Kisses (Hershey).

I drilled mine then retapped it to a larger size, 12x1.75 I think. It is for the Nissan Titan pickup. No harm other than a little more noise back there. Mine was broken for a year or so. I drilled the broken stud then used one of those Extractor bits. There is such a difference in the size you can waller it out without any worry. I used a propane torch too when i got ready to back it out.

Thank you! Good news for us that like to do our own work on a budget. Way to go @Blue

Today I insured my '72 with Classic Collectors insurance by Infinity for $129 a year. $500 deductible on comprehensive, collision and uninsured motorist with a stated value of $20,000. 6,000 miles per year total, I MAY put 2 to 3,000 on it in one year. Very pleased with this. My agent didn't offer Hagerty's but I don't see how there could be much difference. Tomorrow I'm going to add my '77 and hopefully get a multiple car discount. With the vintage tags at $10 each for life and this incredibly low rate I can't imagine selling either one now. 280 for the highway, 240 for around town.

I think a mustache would be period correct.

Talk about unpeeling an onion, WOW! You have a tremendous project going on but by the looks of it you are the right person to tackle it. I'm not about to go poking around on mine after seeing this. Thanks for the reality check.

I wonder why they vented the hoods in '77? I personally don't like water getting in my engine bay like it does through those. Mine are loose too and sorta float/wiggle when I'm speeding.

So true! at least down here. I had a 325is back in the 90s with with driving lights that came on with the headlights. After 2 "refusal to blow" visits to the the jailhouse I cut the wires to those babys.

It seems like the one I bought from Futofab may have touched a little in the center too. I'm thinking I had to do something extra with those rear mount brackets like maybe put an extra washer under their bolts to get the bumper off the body. It's super close now, like paper thin, but not touching. My biggest headache was the chrome carriage bolts I had to source myself. All the ones made for chrome bumpers were either too big or too small. Rossi'sZ told me he used stainless and polished them to a shine with polish and a buffing wheel. Worked great.

Easy way to check is pull up the E brake. If it comes up without resistance your problem is the rears. I rebuilt my brake system at each wheel and then shortly thereafter the booster took a crap.

It's a great feeling isn't it.

I was pleased with these stainless steel manifold studs from zcardepot.com, no more rusty studs. https://zcardepot.com/stainless-steel-bolt-kits/engine-kits/intake-and-exhaust-manifold-stainless-steel-stud-kit.html

You guys have reminded me of something I need to do. Tom Monroe also says to retorque the head bolts as added insurance but do it when the motor is cold, pg. 155.

For a good shine I've used Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze on dull cars. Read the reviews from amazon customers, 5 stars. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Show-Car/dp/B0002UQAM0

Can I use just the outer OE valve spring to get the wipe pattern right? Honsowetz's book uses special "set up springs" that I don't have but I would like the least resistance I can get while doing this. All my lash pads are .190s and I figure I'll do a lot of filing to get them right. Any experience on which to use while doing this would be appreciated. Thanks, Cliff

if it's making a clunking noise it could be a worn out differential mount. They are available from many places, I like zcardepot.com myself. If it's a whining noise you should try replacing the old fluid with new. I used RedLine in mine and it really helped quieten it down.

Sorry to overwhelm a new member Cooper but essentially what we're saying is you should drop the transmission first, get the collar off and see what you have before ordering your clutch kit. Here's something that shows the 92mm measurement they're talking about. Best of luck with your 240Z, they are amazing cars.

I guess that's what it is, easier marketing but why the price difference? Maybe the tube of lube is taller or shorter? EDIT: I didn't get a new collar with my kits.

I agree with you on keeping it simple for Cooper but there's obviously something different about the clutches from '70-'74 and '75-'83. I'm just curious as to what it is because I'm with you on them being the same but the suppliers seem to feel different. From MSA;

So the OP can buy the $112 Exedy clutch kit #6009 for a 280 and use on his 240 4 speed instead of the $186 one for 240s? When I check fitment on amazon.com it says they won't work on a 240. I would go with your advice before amazon.com's but am wondering why the discrepancies in the two? Not a huge savings but cheaper nonetheless.

The guy that bought my #110 painted the calipers with a high heat color that's close to the body color. I think it looks pretty cool and had never thought about doing something like that.

I'm running a 225mm Tilton aluminum flywheel in my 240 with the $100 Exedy kit for the 280ZX 5 speed I switched over to. It takes a few minutes getting used to the lightweight clutch after driving my other manual cars/trucks. After I make it out of my driveway and onto the streets, I'm used to it and love the quick revving. It reminds me of the street bikes I used to ride. I would drain the transmission fluid if you're just doing the clutch and replace it with Red Line MT90. New slave cylinder and hose. New rubber seal around the speedometer cable. Those you'll have to get from a Nissan dealership, $3 or $4. While you have the transmission out you should replace the rear oil seal also. They're cheap and can be bought at any chain auto parts store. If it were MINE I'd put a 5 speed in if you can find one. 70 mph at 2,100 rpm instead of 3,500.

I believe I see a stair case and a Samsung phone. I'd be happy to win the dirt.

Thanks Chas! I see now why the 240 assembly kit is much more expensive than the 280. There's a lot more material on the 240s. The 240s 4 speed is shorter so I guess that's why the heights are different. Learn something every time I use this forum.