siteunseen

Does kinda look like a castle! Minus the moat.

I don't have one but I think it's called a castle nut? You should be able to find one at local auto parts in the HELP section for brake parts. Probably a common thread and the height wouldn't have to be too exact. Good luck.

Looks good. I have bought enough stuff for mine I thought about creating an LLC and using all of it to lower my gross income. What's less than zero? Maybe Uncle IRiS would pay me?

That's a neat story Phillip. Elvis wanted to be like James Dean and drive a Spyder. My Grandad went to Germany and all he got was a P-38.

Out of stock at the moment but from all I've read if you talk with him directly, email I guess, if he has enough interested people he can make them up pretty quick. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6146476

Yes! That was BC time, "Before Connectivity".

After reading around I'm not too concerned with them wearing down very fast, if at all. I think they're heat treated throughout but can't find anything definitive saying they are not case hardened. They also say that the lash pads today all come from Nissan? Schneider doesn't keep them anymore and MSA recommends .170s for my grind but they aren't open yet for me to call. Stay tuned... "Wikki D" says Don't get hung up on a specific size, as mentioned earlier in the thread: cutting down to correct thickness is very easy. Any machine shop with a magnetic deck and surface grinder can do this job a full set at a time...though facing them initially to get them close with a lathe or bridgeport would save time and stone face on the surface grinder.

Lets see what @Lumens says. He has installed the same cam kit I have and may know. I thought if something was hardened steel it would be throughout? Schneider told me that .190s were all they had. I assumed he meant all the time but they could've been out of stock at that moment? Worth a phone call to see though. I'll report back Monday.

Man that helps! Thank you. One more though. Install all 12 valves and the springs first? Then do one rocker at a time. Thanks I looked and now know the answer. I'm more astronaut than rocket scientist.

So if I get the exhaust and the intakes hitting the wipe pad right by filing them myself I could have the other 10 cut down by a machinist? Do one of each and use those to check all twelve lobes? I was going to use the outer spring only for the sizing of the lash pads and do one at a time. Thanks Guy, I appreciate your help. It really helps getting started into the unknown after talking with someone that's been there and done that.

It took awhile to hit me but the mp3/usb player I put in my truck is half the size of normal head. I'm hoping to put one in the glove box of my 240. Nothing's in there but insurance papers.

I love it! . I've read a good bit on thinning the lash pads. It's all in the flat files I buy, rough/medium and a pair of leather gloves. AlaZama out...

You have to let us know how the quarter mile runs turn out. Looking back at your photos I see ".150. I saved some money with Schneider but they sent a bag of ".190s.

I was thinking but not typing it but I would remove the console if it were mine. I believe I may have a little bit of that ocd too.

I think I'd be "ready to go" before that one got finished.

$100 is cheap to take out the OE and then reinstall another in a 240. There's a lot to remove that's easy to break.

That is an interesting part to me. I don't think I've seen them in any of the Zs I've had. Mine are missing but it doesn't cause any problems that I know of. I don't park them outside though? Vintage Rubber has them for $130. I won't be buying anytime soon. https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+hatch+hinge+rubber&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwir19uPpPzTAhXBOCYKHbLHAXAQ_AUICygC&biw=1280&bih=616#imgrc=_

I have a Tilton 10.5lb 225mm with the $100 Exedy clutch kit that isn't noisy at all. My 280 with the same clutch kit on an OE 225mm flywheel is noisy as hell when the throwout bearing has the load but I beat it down with the old bearing when I installed it onto the collar. The next time I had a machine shop press the new on, no noise. EDIT: I used a bench vise and the old bearing instead of a hammer to press the first one on, sorry.

In my experiences, if courtesy can get it my local dealership can to. Get the part number and call, they'll check the stock and if it's available you'll get it in just a couple of days. Amazes me at the parts they still have for my '72 compared to my '77. Bought new scuff plates about a month ago, the newer better ones that aren't covered with vinyl. Go Nissan!!!

Could be a lash pad popped out? I had one come off and have read where others have too.

Oh boy! Is it a 1,000cc or a 600? Looks like a 1 liter as tall as it is. You'll have trouble with your face getting hit by the handlebars all the way through third gear. That's one helluva beginners bike.

Are you talking about the connection from the harness to the back of the radio? It has power wire, illumination and two speaker wires? I can get to that pretty easy since I still haven't installed the console. That's what I'll check first then if I have to I'll pull the rear hatch panel that covers the speaker. Thank you for a direction/idea on where to start. I'm hoping you aren't talking about a capacitor inside the tuner when you say "coupling cap", hopefully just a capacitor on the speaker if it's not the power/speaker/ illumination plug. Thanks again.

Pretty old thread but I have a question that someone may be able to answer? I recently installed the OE am/fm radio in my '72, it was a huge PITA too so removing it ain't happening. When I push the power knob off and on it makes a pretty loud popping noise but when it's on a station I can barely hear it. Like usual I did a dumb thing and didn't bench test it prior to installing, regret that now. Would anybody have any experience with this type issue? Is the radio bad or hopefully the speaker? Thanks for any help!

EDIT: Oh yeah, the whole reason I posted was to say I think your original paint will shine like a new nickel and I love #920 Safari Gold, it's my favorite behind #918 Orange I agree with Jonathan on the original paint, from what I can see of the pictures. I found some touch up paint from amazon.com, talked to the guy and told him how old the car was and he sent me an almost exact match. I washed mine a few times then did the touch ups and had it wheeled down. The guy that cut the paint offered to buy the car for double what I paid. The night I got it home After a lot of elbow grease and soap After the wheeling and polishing by a pro