siteunseen

That's the dumbest thing I've said today but it's still really early... Captain you have a P79 already, not an MN47. Phillip was talking about square exhaust ports. Sorry! Back to the Salt Mines for me. ?

Wow, that made a big difference. Anxious to read Hoover's MN47 offerings.

That fpr no matter where it is regulates the fuel pressure. My 77 had in on both sides return on bottom vacuum nipple on top. With mine and your straight shot fuel rails comes in the front closer to the radiator. Then the fpr takes that incoming fuel and regulates it (same psi) for the whole rail. It will take what you need and dump the excess through the return. That's the cool thing about those aluminum rails, they constantly flow fresh "cool fuel". No fuel overheating causing the hot restart problem a lot of folks experience. So to answer your original question, the 78 fpr has an incoming fuel nipple that regulates the psi. And a vacuum nipple on top. Rockauto.com had one for $75 when I did mine.

Opinions here please. I have access to an N42 and a P79. Without much drama, which would be the easiest to "hop up"? I've read the P79 shaving and older valves work supergood but is there that big of a difference in a N42 head. I like square exhaust ports.

@Diseazd would be another P79 king.

@Jeff G 78

Going by my '77 and what I did as far as removing everything like your sons car, my honest opinion would be go back to a '78 fuel pressure regulator with that fuel rail. Unless you injectors are some fuel hogs it should run fine with the OE style FPR. I ran into that same dilemma when I did mine but after tons of reading I found the '78 one inlet style was sufficient. Maybe the previous owner read something I missed but I doubt it.

They are using the doughnut spares in the raised rear deck of the '77 and '78 280s with larger fuel tanks. They came with a collapsible spare and a can of air 40 plus years ago so you can't really trust them anymore. The weight difference would be about the same as a gallon of gas.

Mine have a "slide bolt" type lockdown at bottom. They rattle so they hang on the wall of my garage. Similar to this...

I corrected that as your typing I guess. So Nissan had no factories in the US at the time? I do know they never went back to Japan.

Where does it stop, untruths here and there? Sets up regrets down the road imho. Google "240z restoration program" and see what Nissans contractors did. I wish I could tell you but after reading quite a few post no one mentioned it.

All mine are rounded off on my '77. I use these for the flare nuts...

Can you not bend the arm that connects to the jet or nozzle? Maybe I'm not "on the same page"?

Here's more info to add to Jonbill's answer. Thanks to @240260280 http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/ball&socket/index.htm

That's for an L20 motor. Are they the same length chain? Edit#1 The measurements are so close it is the same.

That's much better than what I did! Remember this!

I forgot my whole point. ? If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can see while driving it will tell you more. My fuel pressure went down the more I used the motor. It was sucking in a bunch of unmetered air through that hole.

I screwed 3/8s barb on a cheap gauge from Lowe's pool supplies department. I believe I used some 5/16" hose for a tight fit then put a zip tye or maybe a small worm gear clamp? Worked out great. I found a big rotted hole under the intake.

The one I scanned? If it worked I'm happy. I wasn't sure the true size would come out on a printed piece of paper. Thanks

MSA's sales department is very much more easier than the website. They're nice as can be and always give me a better price than online. Plus the 10% discount we get is always deducted. To me their website is more like an old fashioned paper catalog, you find what you need and give them a call to order. I like that. My $.02

Well thank you! I am lucky, scares me sometimes lucky. Frugal too, scares OTHERS sometimes frugal. ?

I had a ZX1100 that would get the "death wobble" around 120mph. My mechanic, drag racer and good friend told me to just let go of the grips but keep my hands in place and it would stop on it's on. It works! I wouldn't dare do that now that I'm older and in debt but when I was younger I did some dumb $^!#.

I just remembered my first time doing this, nervously I will add. I used a long screwdriver turned upside down. The handle fit perfect and held the tensioner back then my nightmare began. I couldn't get the damn screwdriver out! Finally got a good hold of the flat blade with some vise grips and pulled like a mother. Then I did my Happy Dance.

Well Mr T Wood I hope when you print it out the measurements will be true and you can lay it down on a piece of wood, draw it out and then cut it out. Let me know if I can be of anymore help. Cliff