Walter Moore

I used the MSA kit, but only to replace the bulbs that were burned out, so perhaps I didn't hit the ones that don't fit. My biggest problem was getting the original bulbs out of the socket. They are "push and turn" style bulbs, and once they were pushed down, there was nothing above the housing to turn.

Better late than never!

You will have to change your speedometer gear in the transmission with 275/40/17 tires. The OD is bigger than the original was by 43mm. And you will need a negative offset. Does a 275/40 require a 10" wide wheel, or is it more like an 11" wheel?

Sounds like ignition, but I would have to see it to be sure. Check for spark (carefully) and go from there. Could your distributor have shifted? (i.e. is it loose?)

If it has a converter, then I vote for that being the source of the smell. I remember that the rotten egg smell was actually very common on the 75 - 79 models of American Cars when they were new, because they all ran carbs and tended to run rich. (Also, the EPA allowed a lot more sulfur in gasoline back then then the do today.)

Yes, you have to drain the cooling system. Well, actually the choice is to drain the system INTENTIONALLY, or to pull the hoses off first and take a bath in antifreeze. Personally I prefer the former.

Interesting shift lever you have there. The car is really taking shape I see. Great work.

The dual point distributor was used in the automatics for emissions reasons, at least the STOCK dual point dizzy. Check this thread for more information: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1747&highlight=dual+point+dist

For what it is worth I recommend the ZX upgrade. It worked out well for me. The only caution I would mention is to use the ZX belt, because the original belt can't take the power. I went electric because my 71 does not have a fan shroud and the stock fan showed clear indications of having been hitting the radiator, which was missing. Actually I have 2 fans, one 12" and one 10". (two 12" fans will not quite fit behind the radiator. I tried using a GM style alternator, but could not get the mounting bracket right, and keep losing belts. The ZX alternator is bolt-on mechanically. The electrical part only requires a kit that is easily available from sources here and MSA, or a carefully placed diode. I actually told Advance Auto that I needed one for a ZX turbo because that car came with a 70 amp unit. The "test" report showed 70 amp max output. Since I installed it I have had no serious electrical issues. (The max current output at idle is still not optimal, but by 1K rpm all is OK.

Have a good time on your trip!

You believe correctly.

I believe that a 70 would have a plastic tank. My 71, HLS30-29810 still has it's original plastic tank. I also removed and replaced the tank without issues.

Is this an Ebay seller?

The 72 Pinto that I drove in High School only had about 3 - 4 inches of ground clearance, but not because I made it that way intentionally... (Old Fords sucked!) :stupid: I once got stuck in the middle of an unplowed road, because the snow was 5 inches deep. :tapemouth

You could also blow out more than "carbon"... but I digress.

Perhaps, but not as serious a mistake as breaking something trying to get it off.

= 4.5 inches which was a common bolt pattern at the time.

The rear cover is aluminum, and the plugs are steel. They expand at different rates and tend to corrode together. The only way I have ever been able to remove them is with a pipe wrench and a hammer. (Short sharp blows...) If there is a better way to get them out please someone let him know.

Read these threads first: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14777&highlight=bbl http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11171&highlight=bbl The consensus of opinion here seems to be that the car will not run any better overall, but to be honest I never tried it . The SUs can deliver all the air that my L24 could ever need, and I suspect only triples would actually increase the maximum air delivery.

Groan...

Hope you finish in time. Personally, I am waiting on my MSA rear speaker enclosure. I have new speakers and a new stereo to replace my dead Aiwa unit, but I need the enclosure. Hopefully we will both be ready.

Cold start valve perhaps? Or perhaps your car is trying to get you to move to the day shift

Yep, the S130 is the Rodney Dangerfield of the Z car world. I personally think that they are under-rated by most people. But in the interest of full disclosure, I bought a new "sporty" car in 1982, and it wasn't a 280ZX, because at the time I thought they were over priced and under powered. (Unless you went for the Turbo, which was way out of my price range.)

The bore of the L26 is the same as the L24, and the stroke of the L26 is the same as the L28, so if you have an L24 with the L28 rods and crank you have an L26. (More or less depending upon if the head has been opened up enough to breath correctly.)

Rebello makes a 2.7L "stroker" out of the L24. I presume that if it was possible to take it to 3.1L they would, and they don't. The oft repeated story is that the L28E is the only block that makes a good 3.xL stroker because the pistons are Siamese, that is they are connected to each other for strength. I suspect that the cylinder walls of the L24 are not thick enough to bore them out to the 2.8L diameter. Yes you could sleeve the block bigger, but that might weaken the block to the point that it would not survive the extra torque. In the end it would be cheaper, and safer to use the L28E block in the first place.