Jump to content

Esc8p2NeverLand

Members
  • Content Count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Esc8p2NeverLand

  • Rank
    Registered User

Contact

  • Map Location
    CA
  1. As d240za2 said, keep a rag over the distributor to keep anything foreign from falling in. Buy a good drill out bolt extractor- Sears has a variety of them usually on sale. Use a drill with a light hand to keep the speed low and use some machine oil as well. Good luck!
  2. You sir, are correct about the ignition! (Night) + (Pre-workout energy drink) x (frustration) = not a thorough enough inspection of all wires. I missed one little wire underneath the ProMaster ignition- the positive lead to the ballast resistor. I felt like such a dope (yet relieved) after hooking that little wire back and the car firing up so beautifully. Thank you random Z guy whom stopped and helped me test fuel pressure throughout my entire system at 11 at night while I was stranded on the side of the road!
  3. Well I finally got the carbs synched and running great- the car just died on me! Info on the car: L24 Tripple Weber 45 DCOE - 36mm chockes - 145 mains - 195 air Mallory Unilite/ pro master Electric Fuel Pump FPR set at 3.5 psi ____________________________ I was driving and the car just died. I pulled over and tried cranking it. It turned over and didn't sound like any battery problems. I gassed it and then it would rev up really quickly and then die. I could not get it to idle at all- just rev and then die. I checked the fuel pressure and it read 3-4 psi. I disconnected the hose after the elec
  4. Thanks all for the input. As far as tuning, I'm just looking to have some sort of air horn. It seems that everyone recommends one rather than just a k&n filter (which the previous owner only had). For it holding the aux venturi, my weber 45 dcoe seem to have two bolts underneath securing possibly both venturis? I need to take them off to get a better look. Can anyone chime in on that?
  5. I've been looking for velocity stacks now and was recommended pierce manifolds. They have two styles available with two very different prices. What are the pros and cons of flange mount versus the insert type? The one that mounts outside is almost half the price. Flange Mount Insert Mount Thanks!
  6. I have 170 correctors. I'll trade you for your 200s! PMEd you.
  7. It does have a heat shield (previous owner made it), but I'll try wrapping the header. Thanks!
  8. I cleaned the carbs with cleaner and reset the linkages. Seems to have helped some bit. A good amount of "brown" came out of them. No it'll hold idle fine, but I still get inconsistent idle rpm readings. At first it'll sit nicely at 700 rpm, but after driving it'll idle at 1000-1100. And then when I get into traffic it'll get back down to around 700-900 rpm. Maybe I need to clean them some more.
  9. No choke cable. I'll check the fuel pressure regulator this weekend and put a gauge in to monitor it. No screens on the inlet.
  10. Thanks, Z-Luke, I'll give your suggestions a try this weekend and see what comes of it
  11. I'm reposting this in here out of the "Help Me" section in hopes to get some more responses. So now something odd is happening with the idle. So when I start it up, I have to play with the gas for about 3 minutes until the temperature probe moves on the dash, then if I let go of the gas it'll stumble low to about 400 rpm and die. On the other hand, if I pop the hood and manually give the throttle a little "blip" it'll go to about 850 rpm and idle great. So I thought maybe I have to just give it a tap or two of the gas pedal to recreate the same thing. NO! It doesn't work. If I then proceed to
  12. Also after some time driving trying to figure this out, the idle still draws to a stall and will have a hard time regulating the idle unless I manually press the throttle lever on the carbs.
  13. So now something odd is happening with the idle. So when I start it up, I have to play with the gas for about 3 minutes until the temperature probe moves on the dash, then if I let go of the gas it'll stumble low to about 400 rpm and die. On the other hand, if I pop the hood and manually give the throttle a little "blip" it'll go to about 850 rpm and idle great. So I thought maybe I have to just give it a tap or two of the gas pedal to recreate the same thing. NO! It doesn't work. If I then proceed to pop the hood and "blip" it again it'll idle fine. Any ideas?
  14. EScanlon, thank you! Very informative. I'll be doing everything you said.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.