Patcon

I hate when I do that. I almost did that the other day on a gas line at a customers house. It would have been too short to reflare!

If your tire spaces are currently even, I don't see how it couldn't help but change is you remove 1/2" from the height of the rear strut

Yes

I am not sure this is a good repair. I'm not worried about crumple zones in a Z car. Let's face it the driver is the crumple zone! John at Bad Dog rails makes a replacement piece for this exact area and is very insistent that they not be welded in continuously. Evidently that extra rigidity in the floor causes problems or cracking in other areas of the car. I believe it was in Atlanta he and I were talking to Matsuo San (?) about the lead joints at the A pillars and quarter panels and he expressed that it was so the car could "breathe" ie flex. So those areas are very important to the over all structure of the car. Overly reinforcing one area forces the flexing to a different area with unpredictable consequences. Caveat Emptor...

That's possible I guess but I don't think they would need to be as long as they are or go all the way to the rear just to make the rocker stiff enough for jacking

Looks like it finished at $165k @siteunseenyou missed low

If you are referring to the middle piece of the rocker panel sandwich. It's a reinforcement. Probably because that part of the rocker would bulge and shear without it. Always remember automotive manufacturers don't add pieces for no reason! They try to make everything as cheap as possible

Civic Si, My brother had about the same year. That little car would move and it handled really well too

You are correct, I was thinking it was the other way C

Those are pretty corroded. Although the corrosion in the bore is probably a bigger concern than the corrosion on the piston

Is this a blue that was used for exterior paint? Not engine block paint, correct?

Even using the 3m stuff I have struggled. The paint shop sold me some black urethane they said would hold anything. Haven't really tested it yet. Yes, lots of little clamps but not too strong or the seal will glue down with a pucker at every clamp

I think I would consider taking out the freeze plugs/casting plugs and shooting high pressure water through the block to flush it out. My concern is there are large pieces of rust in the jackets and they are fouling the holes at the head gasket. You have them cleared now but when you add fluid back into the motor that debris will circulate again and stop those points up again. Causing random overheating that seems undiagnosable

Did you look at ITBs and rule them out?

I believe KF Vintage makes the most accurate panels when compared to Tabco. I might go so far as to say Tabco has the least accurate panels...

You're making great time!

The rust in the jackets and head needs attention. A pressure washer would be good for that

Almost 600 Hp and 350 ft lb of torque. Impressive numbers. Still alot of cash though!

I ended up using part numbers from rockauto to search Ebay

I would agree. Toss the seals and felts. Weld in some stainless and polish to match. May not be a flawless repair. Will depend a lot on the welder

Evidently bearings have been difficult to get for a while. Search on Ebay if you know what part number you need

I believe Spirit Garage is Eiji's company in Virginia. I assume he sources these from overseas but he might not. I am not sure you would have to level out the carb. You might. you might not. All of the critical things in an SU are centered in the body, so it might not matter. The small amount of angle I would expect in the finished product might not matter. I do agree with the idea of deleting the water in the jacket, then grind to your hearts content

I suspect just looking at the picture of the manifold that the metal isn't very thick. It might be a little thicker in the corner area. I would think the internal face of the casting area is flush with the internal face of the core plug, but the core plug are is raised so it's probably only as thick as the difference. Another crazy idea would to be to resurface the intake manifold at a slight bevel. Leave the bottom thickness pretty much unchanged and remove a mm or so off the top edge. The "yokes" should still clamp properly that way but it would tip the manifold up some. Just eyeballing it, it should raise the manifold by 2:1. So a mm off the top of the flange raises the manifold by 2mm

I believe that square section is a coolant chamber. Lrobably about as thick as that dimple is deep

As I recall it doesn't foul all the plugs. Just the one