Patcon

The blue chromate is very dark blue in the tank. It does brighten the raw zinc plating and give it a slight bluish hue. I find blue chromate much easier to do than the yellow zinc. The yellow seems to be much more time sensitive. Like to the second...

That's a grungy booster!!! I think I would rebuild that... I had the same velour seats in my first 240z. The were in the car when I bought it in about 86'. I believe they were original to the car

I couldn't get any of the pictures to load. Anyone else?

I wasn't following. You were saying the parts are all zinc plated but all the yellow zinc was chromated with Hexavalent Chromium

What parts would have received this treatment?

I've got some magnetic rubber vise pads that might work good for the needles.

I believe, buying premade lines is the way to go in your case. It is probably possible to do with everything still in the tunnel. I would definitely start like that. You might find removing the exhaust or driveshaft makes it easier. Beware of breaking bolts on the exhaust. It will just make more work that is not easy to fix. Bear in mind, stainless lines can be difficult to seal because they are harder. I suspect steel lines will easily last another 50 years. Longer than most on this forum, including me, will be around...

I would just replace the whole line at some point in the future

Really nice too because you can see details of how parts go back, what screws and bolts go where. What the finishes are etc.

@Mike Thoughts on creating a knowledge / resource base area for 3d printer files? So they dont get buried in Individual threads

I like that blue car. It brought good money!

Actually, Cliffs suggestion might be a really good fix so you can get it to a shop. Cut a short section out and splice it back with fuel hose, preferably EFI rated hose. It will be harder to collapse. It can be a struggle to find good places for jack stands under the car. The cross member is a good place to lift the car. If you put the stands there, put them out as wide as possible to try to make the car stable. I like to throw chunks of 6x6 under a few points as an extra safety...

I don't really know. Pretty much all of the heat is on the other side as long as its not pouring out when it's running. It might even be drawing air in when it's running. I would replace the whole line if I could. Also liquid gasoline is really not that flammable. It's the fumes that are the problem

I would think the "stabilizer" would be referring to the sway bar. I would expect to see a torque value more like 44#s because of the diameter of the rods and the fine threading ...

The fuel tank work looks really clean! Actually all the work looks really clean but I found the fuel tank work to be a very creative solution

Why did you decide to take the clutch slave line through the passenger compartment?

Are you going to use the stock location? What are your thoughts on a cover?

I bought a rebuild kit from Harmon. I have it but yet to start it up yet, but if I had I had to do it over again I would let Harmon build it. Somebody else on the forum has dealt with them too.

It certainly doesn't feel like 15 years!!!

It was nice equipment back then and arguably might be better quality then you can buy now

My point was the flat tops will raise the compression and might make it impossible to pass Smog. I don't think Nissan would have added dish pistons to lower the compression for emissions if they could have run flat tops

Zcar depot shows flat tops with valve relief. I don't know it those will play nice with the stock EFI. Maybe someone else can speak to that. I would try to ask them if they can get a dished piston. You could probably also mill the flat tops some if you needed to to lower the compression. As long as you don't make the crowns too thin...

I agree with the others on the wall condition. Vertical lines would concern me. Possible ring scratches or skirt dragging. Also the mottling at the top of the cylinders concerns me. Not really sure what that is, possible corrosion damage? I absolutely agree with Racer, that its hard to tell what the engine really needs with out Mic'ing it. Also be careful on grinding the crank. I had a hard time finding over sized bearings on a L20 build

Well your first issue in my mind is you need to stick with stock efi. That rules out most mods. You can probably tinker with the setup but the problem comes in when you cant tune the system for a deviation. Also you would be searching for dished not domed pistons. To really determine the bore condition you would need a way to measure bore ID. 3 places down the bore. Side to side and front to back. If there's no lip at the top of the bore you might could just hone if your measurements are good. But you might hone and then have to bore and re-hone. It sounds like these shops are approaching this from past experience and the highest percentage of success. As for the crank, if it mic's out, is round and looks good, a light polish would be better than grinding. It's easier (maybe lazy) of the shop to bore and grind. The upside for them is they know for certain the crank is true and round. They also know the bores are all true, cylindrical, straight, consistent and without taper. All good things. It also takes some time to do all the checking versus just chucking it uo and punching it out. These old Nissan blocks were made out of really good metal and these shops may not have a lot of experience with how well they hold up

So $1200 plus rubber if the tires are any good. If the tires are shot, then I would consider $600 a "so so" price