Patcon

Ordered 10pcs of 01451-00041 from Courtesy parts. We'll see if they're black or clear finished. They're not real cheap

I believe the 300zx might have used a similar stainless screw in black. If I could find those, I would bead blast them or buff them...

I was going to say it looks about the same diameter as the spring. I would think 3mm or 3.5mm

So here's another data point These are the lights that came out of "Lily" Green overspray but I don't see any black. The also have the slotted screw tabs. So I would say the slotted screw tabs are for 240's

Worked on the fuel tank and vent lines today. Made gaskets for the wiper pivots Expander in the filler neck. A tip for the future, put the tank straps into the car body before lifting the tank into place. They are difficult to get in after the fact. I made some progress on the tank but I need a spring to keep the top front port on the tank from collapsing and I didn't have enough double wire hose clamps Does anyone know of a source the marker light screws? I would like to purchase them in bulk... BelMetric doesn't seem to carry that kind of screw

I dont believe that is the same item. I believe there is supposed to be another seal a the bucket to fender joint Edit: checking car parts manual shows totally different part numbers #30 https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/front-fender-hood #12 https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/head-lamp

Are there any pictures around for what they looked like? I might try to replicate them. I dropped off the remainder of my panels at the paint shop today. I suspect they will be ready next week.

Did anyone ever recreate the Nubbins? I know somebody was working on that

Any idea on a source for those? Those aren't the ones for the headlight to bucket are they?

What is part #30?? https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/front-fender-hood

I stripped some headlights a little while back I had a pair of 280z lights and a pair of 240z lights. Even with the plugs off, it's a little hard to get them out of the headlight buckets

I can't answer most of your questions, but I do think you are correct to remove the excess paint

Polished the pivots some today and bead blasted the wiper pivots I noticed a thin hard washer on all the short pivots. Very hard to see and I had to use a knife to separate them from the pivots. Three of these pivots have a broken bolt in them

We have been working on getting the fuel tank back into the Goon. Noticed the filler neck is much smaller than the tank port Over a 1/4" different in diameter and the filler neck is pretty hard. So I bought some exhaust swagers I will expand them. Then heat. Then repeat. We'll see how that works

I think I found another I was taking headlights apart for plating buckets. I believe the painted ones are 240z and the unpainted are 280z The screw tabs for the lamps are also different They must have blacked them after assembly because the tabs and screws were all painted black

Maybe, the link worked for me

I was very disappointed a few years ago when looking for 350z interior parts. Almost all of them were unavailable on a 14 yo car. I find that to be a poor business decision but it is what it is

Bondo ( plastic body filler) is really not a suitable material for dealing with rust holes. It is not water proof so moisture can travel through it and continue the rusting process. Grannyknot is correct that the hole is probably larger than you suspect once you get back to sound metal. I also agree with the sentiment that you need to get the metal clean. I would also add a step of treating the rust with a phosphating chemical. This chemically converts what minor rust is left. If I was going to try to fill a hole after this and didn't have access to a welder then I would use short hair fiberglass resin. Fiberglass resin is totally water proof after it's cured. But bare in mind that fiberglass resin gets much harder than filler! It's harder to shape and finish well. Once the hole is sort of filled and sealed up you can use filler over the primed resin to make it smooth.

No I haven't checked the part numbers. That would be very surprising if they were available. The only part Im not sure how you would refurbish are the ball joint ends.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313&_nkw=280zx+turbo+oil+cooler&_sacat=0

Both, and recommendations on how to deal with them moving forward

The 280zx turbo had an oil cooler with an adapter plate. I have no idea what they cost used

Some of the spindles were bound up in the bases, but we managed to get them all out Now for the questions... How do we think these were made?? I'm thinking the main body was yellow zinc by the looks of it, but the pivots almost look like they are hard chromed (??) then riveted through the main body? The drive pivot was tacked welded to prevent rotation maybe... Thoughts? I have some that are badly corroded. What do you do then? Clean and yellow zinc? @Captain Obvious@grannyknot

Some of the later mechanism had some different parts This mechanism has a rubber boot on the end of it. I believe Steve Nixon offers this part as a reproduction Here is it half disassembled Out of the 3 mechanisms only had the spring in this orientation, but I beleive this is the correct position The last one also had this little piece of plastic? I'm not sure of it's purpose

This is what the single side spindle looks like This is the drive end of the linkage Order of the top pieces Be careful when disassembling this! There is a spring under here and the first one I did the spring and washer went flying. Order of the lower pieces Another pivot