Patcon

Ok. Here's the latest. I forgot to Martzedcars trick... We did another compression test Dry Wet Leak test #1 142 157 28% #2 120 163 47% #3 128 151 33% #4 140 160 38% For the wet test, I shot 3 squirts of oil into each cylinder. The number came up dramatically. All of this is on a cold engine. I believe the leak test numbers were also influenced by the rings too because the numbers would inch up like the oil was being blown out from around the rings. I am still waiting on a coolant system tester to pressurize the system and look for leaks...

We have seen 280z prices in the 30k dollar range for pristine survivor cars. It is getting harder to find a quality cheap Z car

common rust areas: rear wheel wells, lower rear of front fenders, rockers near the back of the doors, front frame rails, battery tray area, floor boards, spare tire well, ledge under the hatch None are deal breakers. Everything can be fixed with time and money but major battery tray rust, frame rail rust or quarter panel rust are big jobs

I will try to look tomorrow for "C"

Or the jacket broke and got longer somewhere

My biggest concerns would be rust. Not the driving condition. If it runs that would be enough for me. Now lots or rust would be a different story

It's a long shot but you could check yahoo japan but I wouldn't hold out hope. It is easier with the part number

A spring around the hose you are trying to bend can help... I know of no source for the through body seal. Can you determine a part number?

This would suggest the door sills are parallel to the datum line. When you work on a frame rack. The rack can be assumed to be the datum line. So you measure to the rack. If your concrete floor is very flat you could use that. The floor in my shop is not that flat (>1/16"). Strings might work if they are tight enough not to sag. A nice long metal straight edge might be better. A piece of angle iron or tube stock. I have a laser level but I don't think I would trust it to be accurate enough for this kind of work...

I have used this on an S10 I own. We have put 80k on it. No real issues. FWIW It could be a clue though to your fluid loss. Might not be a new condition...

How about leveling with the doors sills, front to back and left to right, then back check with these other areas you picked out Don't use the seams in doors. Get some small blocks to level off of and use a long straight edge to span across.

Good! If your measurements are still off, then you will need to spread it before you weld it up. Be careful to not pour the heat to it as you weld or you may get some unintended results. Try to replicate the factory dimensions as close as you can.

If you don't spread it the hood will probably not fit. The engine bay sides are bowing in from the car being on the rotisserie. Get it off the rotisserie and recheck it. I would block it up without using the front of the car. If you have to spread it you check measurements diagonally to say the hood latch to make sure it's square. Did you find the FSM diagram with the dimensions in MM?

That's a really bad idea! They are much stronger as tube type assemblies. If it was that easy to make it right, the factory wouldn't have gone to all the trouble in the first place. Always remember, car manufacturers are notoriously cheap. The don't install "extra" or "unnecessary" parts

Also I believe there is a chassis ground near where you're working. If you damaged it; it could make your lights wonky as the pump current looks for the path of least resistance. The "Sparkys" taught me that.

We meet a couple of guys that have been to a lot of Mitty's when they gave us a lift up one of the hills. They said there have been a number of bad wrecks in that area of the track. The cars can evidently get airborne and flip there. Especially if they try to pass...

I saw that car on Saturday. Looks like the wreck might have been on the back straight away...

Front right almost off the ground!

Yes.If the car fires up when using starter fluid, you have a fuel problem and the ignition is at least good enough to get it started.

Greg, It was amazing to watch how far into turn 1 you could drive before getting on the brakes compared to the rest of the field. It always looked like you were going to end up in the gravel. I agree, you were catching the 17 car every lap. I think with time you could have run him down. Seems like Sam built a nice car. Charles

check the 2 wire switch for continuity with a meter in each of the gears.

No!! The right amount will ultimately be determined by plug color and good running condition

That's a good idea!

That seems counter intuitive since they had the best compression numbers

Too bad. Was just surfing craiglist. I will keep my eyes open...