Patcon

I have read where the rear pan that is available needs some work on an English wheel to really be right. Have you considered drilling out the spot welds in the tire well so you have access then weld it back in when you're done?

I would think the rounded head would want to back the pins back out

That's no longer a tank; it's an overgrown ashtray!

That car would have to be #200 or lower for me to even dream about

Check this site out. I bought some gloves from them for my blasting cabinet. They are really long, big enough even for my hands and nicely lined. They sell all kinds of blasting stuff www.tptools.com

I agree if your primer looks good and it guide coats well to 400 grit then you can go straight to color, no sealer. Guide coating will probably reveal some areas that need some work. I prefer the powder guide coats

Doors are good my butt!!!! $1200??? "Crack heads"!

Look at Disepyom's thread. He was selling these parts but I think he has stopped but he has some great pics in his thread

I buy steel from a local family owned shop. They will cut, brake, drill and shear for reasonable prices

That sounds above my paygrade. ? You know I am going to end up at the Whack-a-Mole method? I figured I would hold it assembled with a clamp, because you have to resist the spring pressure. Then mount the semicircular anvil in the vice and punch it. It's true it's not very precise. I am more worried about too little crimp than too much. I can always use the puller tube slightly to provide some free play if it's over punched. I figured I would use a handleless flat head as a punch.

Yes 3 punch marks and they are like little rectangles. Sort of like the head of a screwdriver. That's why I thought it might be a good candidate as a punch. I wonder how hard that part is? It's steel because I checked it. Maybe the body is thin right there?

Be sure and treat any rust you see. I think part of my paint failures I posted about in Cody's goon thread were places near the edge of the panels where we sanded down to the metal and didn't retreat for rust before painting

I took them both off the pedal box I am refurbing. I believe they are (95%). I could do some more investigating if needed

Well I mentioned we had some paint failures a while back. I had been waiting to take Cody's car by the paint shop to figure out what I did wrong. The experienced guys at the paint shop suspected solvent popping. It had been a number of months since they had been painted. They didn't feel like it had been long enough to be rust. Well when we started digging into it, it was rust. They told me I have to sand them to bare metal and then epoxy prime the same day. They want me to strip the panels and start over. I am not going to do that right now. I sanded the bad spotted and epoxy primed them today. If the rust down't come back then I will repair the primered spots and refinish the panels. I probably have 20+ hours in the hood and the repair spot is really small. We don't always get the in epoxy the same day. I usually after blast then get them primed at some point. He said there had to be rust there when we painted even if it's really not visible. It is possible we didn't after blast thoroughly the first time. I had the rotated correctly but they aren't when I add them You can see the rust discoloration under the paint. What most people would call "surface rust" The upper right picture shows what it looks like under the paint. We used a die grinder with a 60 grit Rolock until all of that rust was gone. Then I after blasted again and epoxy primed Both fenders had about the same numbers of spots. Most weren't very big until you started chasing the rust. Really frustrating!!!! So maybe it will stop and we can move forward without stripping the front end again...?

Exploded view of the plunger and after plating Now I need to come up with a punch. Maybe a reworked flat head screw driver

I bead blasted the rack tube. then I diamond cleared the aluminum end. It's interesting the other end is brazed on Here is the bearing from the steering rack. I believe it is an NSK #8003 So I buffed up the inner tie rod hard chromed ends. Then I wrapped them up in electrical tape and plated the other ends Here is some of the finished plating I will have to redo one of the inner tie rods ends because I plated it too long and the threading is tight and I have the same problem on the adjustment screw but not too bad overall

It's my understanding that many things don't transfer well chassis to chassis. I believe even the window mechanisms are a little different. I suspect the dash might be too. Although you're pretty good at fab work. But if I am going to add all that work, the chassis needs to be pretty good to offset it.

I would encourage you to not get into the "while your at it" syndrome. I did that with my current project and most of my kids have grown up with out a running Z car. It has been a long term fixture in my shop. Your life is only going to get busier for a while if you have small children. All of mine are either in college or getting close. Get your car running and enjoy it. Then your kids can have great memories of riding around with dad in his Z!

That's a good question and I don't know the answer. No real instructions in the kit, just the exploded diagram. I searched online and only really found one Bendix booster rebuild video. It's ok but not really helpful. Really only has the tear down. No rebuild video and it's 2 years old. So I assume a second video is not forth coming. I made a set of "anvils" yesterday. They are sort of down and dirty. Not nearly as elegant as you would have made Bruce, but I think they will suffice. I made a quick tool to pull the plunger rod. 2 anvils and a short section of 1 1/4" pvc and a plate with a hole across the end. Set the anvils in the vice and tighten a nut from the other end and it pulls right apart. Really didn't take much pressure. I will have to come up with a punch now on reassembly

Start with a fuel pressure gauge. You need some real information. That will tell you if fuel pressure is dropping off when it dies or if it's spark. Spark could be a bad module or coil overheating. Could even be rust in the fuel tank or several other things. You may have to add a test port in the fuel line after the under hood filter

That was a nice car. It could be fixed if properly motivated but is probably worth half that

If your just trying to remove the motor, work the grommet through the firewall towards the wiper motor. If it breaks up you can get another as JFA.series1 suggests. Just be careful that you put the correct color wires back in the correct place in the plug

@kats This may be one situation where those of you in Japan could order rebuild kits for these booster from a vendor in the US. I haven't completed the rebuild yet but the early Mustang kit seems to have all the right pieces

What are you trying to do? Remove the wiper motor from the car or replace the rubber grommet on the harness?

It's an interesting looking car