Patcon

So say good bye to the pretty yellow "Biting the bullet" The upside is, I get to get rid of this

Here are some pictures of the air dam transition I don't like I don't like the abrupt change where they meet I would prefer to figure out a way to make it a little more subtle Even more than he is holding right here

Ok, I need some HELP now. I have most of the car roughed out, but I need to finish the rear valance. The car was rear ended at some point and the bumper damaged the rear valance. I worked on it a number of years ago but I don't like the finished results. So I tried to start on the rear yesterday. I made a template of the rear curve of the hatch When I compared it to the rear valance there is quite the difference. So then I figured I needed to have the correct bumper. I was able to finally order some out of Vietnam but I located a straight center section today, in the mean time. Here is the way it currently sits It is a little hard to tell but it's really wavy and uneven. I cut out the center of the valance and pulled the center section. Then I welded it back in. You can see one of the joints on the right This is how the current bar fits Much closer on the ends than in the middle by about 3/8". I assume this gap is supposed to be consistent. Can someone confirm that for me? Also approximately what is this gap supposed to be? At this point I am contemplating drilling out all the spot welds and removing the rear valance entirely so I can try to get it straight and right. I really need to be painted by February if I am going to have a shot at being ready for Zcon 2019. I hate to add the extra work but right now I don't see a good way around it

I love that oil pan!

It's the internet. I take it all with a grain of salt unless I know the poster. It can be hard to sort out reality, especially on HybridZ, because the threads can pinball all over the place

You look a lot younger than I would have thought! ?

The other thing to remember when reading those threads, is some of those guys are racers and know about how to make cars handle and stop.

Thats a shop manicure, best kind! Now if I could get my wife to wear a shop manicure...

Sorry Jeff @Home Built by Jeff Squirrel!!!

TY

Getting old ain't for sissies!

It would be fun to take the same car and do some actual empirical testing to show this. Stopping distance tests: with properly functioning stocks brakes with stock drums and yota solids with stock drums and yota vented with rear disc (Maximas?) and yota vented / solid See what the actual footage is before and after proportioning valve adjustments I suspect the results would be surprising. I suspect the footage actually gets worse in many of these scenarios at least until the balance gets right. The biggest advantage to the Yota caliper in my opinion is the vented rotor should run cooler overall. The biggest disadvantage besides longer possible stopping distances is higher sprung weight. I wonder if any one at HybridZ has done any testing like this?

Man, that's funny!!! I use to know all of those lyrics by heart!

Thanks Yeah, I was a little disappointed that I needed to do this much tweaking. The waviness comes from the sugar scoops being further apart than the xenon mold expects. I don't know if this is always a problem but so far the two of us have had to deal with it. I am hoping the Fusor will bond the frame tight enough to the air dam that if I want to tweak the shape near the wheel wells I can reshape the bars slightly to change the shape. I don't really like the transition from the fender to the air dam. The lower fender edge drops pretty much vertically near the marker light but at the air dam connection it turns outward at a slope almost immediately. I would like the transition to be smoother. I might need to add a picture to make this more understandable...

I agree, that car looks really good. Goon parts are especially hard to find. 510 parts can be expensive and you appear to have all the expensive little bits on the outside of the car. What's the interior like? The cars are really thin and even more susceptible to rust than Z's if you can imagine that. A southwest car should be nice and clean. 510's are still nice and affordable and can be made quick and tossable. "Enjoy the ride..."

I found these while I was browsing around. Not mine. Seems like a fair price https://modesto.craigslist.org/pts/d/modesto-datsun-240z-insulators/6774470525.html

The one I printed off was Fusor 114

Did some more work on the air dam support Here is the air dam side bracket Added some flanges I will drill some through bolts for final mounting. For those others that have used the Xenon air dam. Do they have this waviness on your install? I used a heat gun on it some today. It got better but I can't get rid of all of it. If I push the upper bar forward it reduces this waviness but it is sort of frustrating. If it was a TPO bumper and not urethane I would cut it and take the waves out. But that won't work on urethane

I see you stole Darth Vader's lawn mower!!

This guy is a little strange but his technique is really good. Look through some of his videos. I couldn't find #1 so this is the link for #3 Enjoy

Fusor 401, Yeah, something like that. I did a lot of research for products that I could use for filling a urethane air dam. A pretty specific task. Fusor was one of the products and I have used them in the past. That's probably what I'll use...

You are gonna use the hood hinge torsion bars also? Will they clear the gas struts?

I believe both sides were always the same The older style had a lighter gauge spring and some scissors style Iinks. If they ever got difficult to close, when forced the links would fold up and destroy the hinge. I believe the spring acted as the hold open without an actual detent

I am planning on using Fusor 411 (?) for skimming the ends of the air dam where I reworked the ends for the bumper slots. The bars I made fit inside the front lip and behind the front crease. So I was planning on using the Fusor to glue the bars to the inside of the air dam. That's the plan, I don't know if it will work or not.

Cody and I are also working on some support for the Xenon air dam I want to avoid this So I am missing the valance support on the front of the car. There were a few parts left, but it was pretty much gone. So we cleaned it back to the radiator support and started templating Cereal boxes make for great pattern material Cody hates body work but he likes to weld, so I got him to help me fab t It needs a little more dolly work and I plan on adding flanges down the lower edges similar to the original. It would have been nice to have made it all out of one piece but I don't have the tools or the skills to do that. I think if I had a shrinker/stretcher setup I might could have done it. A metal brake would have been nice to have too. I am working on another bracket that will be mounted to the back of the air dam that will act as a mate and have through bolts so the air dam can be removed. I have some 1/4" and 3/16's rod that is bent to match the air dam shape that will also be added to give some support and shape