Patcon

It might go for less than 10k but 3 days out is a long time

Also were you using flare nut wrenches to start with? If not, you will fail 90% of the time. Brake flare nuts are soft. So they are easily destroyed or damaged

These or these, might help If the system is old then all four wheels really need to be disassembled, cleaned and inspected. If there is any rust or pitting in them, they can be difficult to rebuild. If they clean up you can just replace seals and reassemble. This applies to the master too.

Be very careful removing the cam sprocket. If you let slack into the chain the tensioner will pop out and it will require a lot more disassembly!

Put down the brochure and back away slowly...

The factory system probably won't like the schneider cam. Schneider offers a lot of different cams. You will need to try to pin that down further

I thought I would add this here. MSA now sells a gland nut tool. Pretty reasonable and allows torquing https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic07/60-9956

The gap at the very top is normally large like that. There is some inconsistency right above the body line. My way of going at that is grinding off metal or adding weld bead along the edge to build it out. I think I would strip the front fender to make sure what the rear edge looks like

May you an ad in the classifieds and ad some pictures. It would be interesting to see the quarters. especially the interior side

If someone closer doesn't have one. I might

MikeW also runs a fine mesh filter on his carbs

Jim I didnt see it above but which glass housings did you go with?

I believe a lot of the heat gain in carbs and itb's is through radiation not convection. I believe Ive got that right. So blocking the line of sight with an appropriate medium greatly reduces heat gain.

What do you mean by inner headlight bucket?

They would look good on the Goon! We could run 4 lamps high and low and still not pull too much power.... ?

Looks great Jim!

Your best bet is to talk to a good exhaust shop. They would have the experience to at least make suggestions

I was just looking at his location for just that reaso

Having started the tear everything apart and fix it thing ten years ago, I would strongly vote against that. Get the car running and all the details worked out the best you can and enjoy it. Then when you do the body work, the car can go right back together after paint and be off the road for the least amount of time.

I guess the fuel rail depends on how strict the visual inspection is? In some parts of the country they compare the engine to sample pictures to determine if components have been removed or tampered with. If a visual inspection isn't a big deal, Then the fuel rail can probably remain for now

Much better!

I would say its motorless the way it sits

Adjust the latch. The trick is to get it to sit flat with out too much tension. Lubricating the latch will help too. I make these adjustments with out the latch installed

You can use some blocks of wood between the center sections of the hood and the body and re-arch the hood. Remove the cowl first so you can push against the stronger inner structure. Massage it some then reinstall the cowl. The hoods are fairly workable. Be careful and make lots of tries. Don't crimp it!!! You could even use a 12"-16" block of 2x4 to push the corners of the hood down so you can apply even distributed pressure

Estimated at 180,000 pounds