jfa.series1

Looks really good. Consider a good rub down with Nevr-Dull to keep it that way. http://www.nevrdull.com/

To clarify your question - are your referring to the sheet metal valance under the grill or the gray/black air dam under the valance?

I think the "set" reference means to always replace them both at the same time. A failing alternator is likely to damage the voltage regulator and if you replace just the alternator, the badly regulated current will possibly take out the battery.

Super great stealth project! So glad to have met all of you guys at ZCON as I can put a face and personality to each of you participating in the effort.

Bruce - I seriously doubt that your Z is ever "neglected". Perhaps not driven as often as you like but not ever neglected. BTW - great pic!

I have Dave's harness on my car, see if this pic helps. The harness is the ribbed one, this is at the right side - two plugs and the ground are visible. I also have his turn signal harness installed and in this pic so don't get confused. The ideal location for the relays is beside the voltage regulator with one of its mounting screws.

Lets get some emotional discussion going. With Renault in control of Nissan, could the new Alpine possibly provide the platform for a new Z? http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2016/02/16/voila-renault-reveals-alpine-vision-sports-car/?intcmp=hpff

+ 1 on Mike at Banzai. You won't be disappointed.

That's a great photo series! I suspect the more Cody finds himself in the pics, the more his project ownership will continue to ratchet right up. He's a very fortunate young man to have this guidance. Good job, Dad!!!

The dealer had already installed the 1st-gen BRE Spook and rear spoiler on my car when I bought it back in '71, they painted both in body color. I stuck with these choices when I resto'd the car. My general observation is that body colored front and rear spoilers will add visual "bulk" to the car - provided the car is not a very dark color to begin with. Body color will also cause the add-on to better blend into or accentuate car's lines. I second Diseazd's comment about the use of small O-rings as seals against the body. As so many of us have said - your car, your choices.

Its all about geometry - the pivot point / base for the strut has to be away from the hatch frame to kick the hatch up from a closed position. If the base was tucked in close and parallel to the frame, the strut would be pushing back and not up.

PM sent.

Previous posts have said raising the rear end of the car by a foot or more significantly cuts down on the angle the leveler needs to handle when doing a combined engine/tranny install. +1 on your gearbox fill plan.

This is from a 05/72 issue of Car and Driver, wood and leather options on a shift knob but without the shift pattern. And be sure to check the list prices.

I decided to refurbish a set of 240Z tail lights that came off a parts car and quickly hit the problem of removing the push locks on the back of the lights. Suffice to say, the pin snapped off flush with the back on each unit as I worked on them. Once the lens was separated from the back, removing the push locks from the other pins was pretty straightforward and nothing else broke. After the cleanup was done, it was time to figure out how to re-attach the chrome strip to the lens - including the center post. I checked this site and reviewed some efforts by other members but decided to go with something of my own design. The idea of a coupling nut was my focus but I could not locate anything suitable already pre-made so it was off to Ace Hardware for some on-the-fly engineering. Here's what I came away with: two nylon spacers, 3/4" L X 3/8" OD with a #8 hole; two M5-80 X 10 screws; two flat washers. Here's the process I came up with: Thread the center post with a 5mm-80 die down to 1/4" from the base, clip the post to 3/4" long and dress the end flat: Thread the nylon spacer with a 5mm-80 tap, The #8 hole is a perfect pilot size: Cut the spacer / coupling nut down to 1/2" L and fab a thin washer. I cut a slice ( <1/16" thick) from a faucet washer. The thin washer is important because a thick one will reduce the space available for your new coupling nut: Position the chrome strip on the lens, slip on the washer. Important: plastic on plastic can bind and you could snap the post when screwing on the coupling nut. Lube the threads on the post before installing the coupling nut: The 10mm screw is just a bit long for the thread available in the coupling nut so you can either grind off a bit of the screw or add a star washer to the stack. Assemble the lens and back unit, install the M5-10 screw with the washers and you are done: This post has been promoted to an article

Cliff - that is exactly the process I used for my install. Also - lube the filler neck a bit to make it easier to slide into the plastic tube as you raise the tank. Jim Phooey - just realized I am responding to an old post.

That's probably your emissions controls at work. A rapid deceleration can dump unburned fuel and other bad stuff into the exhaust whereas a slow decel. allows the combustion process to complete and make for cleaner exhaust gases.

That's an amazing find - congratulations. If you have not already done so, I strongly recommend you hook up with the Connecticut Z Car Club - CTZCC. You'll find a fine bunch of folks with a very strong affinity for the S30 series.

I've seen some recent comments that said the replacement panels need to be curved to match the original lines. One comment said to search for a donor car as an alternative.

Another possible clue: to the best of my recall, all the factory connectors in that area are bullet style, no spade style.

Get over to Hagerty and check the valuations on condition 1 cars. Given the upgrades on this car, I'm surprised the price isn't higher.

That looks like the correct item for the side glass seal - they do a good job of describing it. As to professional installation, I doubt that is necessary. The second item is at MSA and BD, you need a Left and Right. MSA offers you choices of Nissan or reproduction. Mine are the repro versions and a perfect fit. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a04/34-1105

Am I sure? NO - but you have my best guess at what else you need. Do you have the plastic rivets for the lower door seals and also for the door-to-fender seals?

Two items I don't see in your list: the side glass outer seal, often called the "squeegee" - it is attached to a chrome strip at the top of the door panel. Also, a small seal at the back of the door where the window frame meets the door. Check the BD site and you can probably identify these two items. The side glass seal is often sold attached to replacement chrome strips. The problem is the new chrome strip is straight and must be forcibly curved to fit the door - not an easy task and possibly damaging to your paint. I think some others have found the side glass seal available by itself - it can be attached to your chrome strip with small pop-rivets.

That's really nice work! If you can get that stuff in black, I suspect you would have a kit business ready to take off.