jfa.series1

First, the obligatory "Hello"!!! What a beauty, you have done very well in locating this awesome car. 721 would be most proud of this worthy successor. Interesting to note your build date is two months prior to mine, yet a slightly higher VIN. We all know cars were pulled out of the line for various reasons, looks like mine is one of those situations. Enjoy the ride!!! Jim

The floorboards of a Z typically have drain hole closed with rubber plugs. If your repairs have eliminated the drain holes, you may be limited to sponging out any water used to neutralize the Metal Ready or similar acid wash prep. Be sure to get everything VERY dry (as in heat gun, hair dryer) before painting with POR-15. The inside of the fenders are best totally cleaned of undercoating or other stuff before painting with POR-15. Scrape all the big stuff off, use a wire brush on a drill motor for the leftovers. You are already making a significant investment of time, don't rush or shortcut something as easy as the inside of the fender. Jim

Here the link to the online parts manual. The folks at Courtesy Nissan Parts dept. are very resourceful at locating this stuff if it is available. You may be able to request shipping directly to your local dealer to reduce/avoid freight charges. You can also plug your p/n's directly into their search box (courtesyparts.com) to check availability. Anything you order directly from their site is generally discounted as deep as they will go. Hope this helps. Jim http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/tabid/1543/Default.aspx

Texas is pretty cheap for antique vehicles (more than 25 years old): $50 for 5 years, bridge fee $10, automation fee $1. There are limitations for usage - parades, exhibitions, club events (obviously a potentially broad interpretation), to/from repairs. Cannot be used for a daily driver or running errands. Even then - it would be up to your local police to decide on enforcement. Also - no safety inspection required, another savings (that is why no DD usage). Jim

Have you or the mechanic tried Nissan? All the hoses for a 240Z are still available, it might be logical that they are also available for the 280Z - perhaps even the same hoses. Check the online parts manual to get your part #'s then check Courtesy Parts online. They are not especially cheap but will absolutely fit - especially important for the ones with significant bends. Don't overlook the seals/grommets where the hoses enter the interior from the tank, available from Mike at Banzai. Jim

This is my 1st generation BRE Spook as it progressed from a basket-case back to a usable part. Years ago I ran thru some water and ripped it off the car. I went back and recovered the pieces and stored them until the resto project got underway. The right side brake duct was missing so I removed the left side duct and used it to build a form for a new one. With everything glassed back together and painted, it makes for a very presentable and unique piece. Jim

Take the easy one first: yes, bump stops will slip onto the strut shafts prior to re-assembling the springs and the retainer caps. Strut cartridges can be replaced without removing the uprights from the LCA's. The front LCA does have to be removed from the upright to replace the outer bushings. The rear LCA has to be removed from the upright ONLY IF you are replacing the outer bushings. This involves pulling the spindles and can be a BFD. Search the forum on what is involved and some of the problems that might be encountered before attempting this changeout. Hope this helps. Jim

Nice slideshow, thanks for posting the link. Jim

+1 on the stud welder option. This is a basic tool at body shops, one in your area might weld the studs at a modest price for you to do the slide hammer work. Jim

Here are a couple of shots of my car with skinned bumpers done in body color. I recommend you reconsider welding closed the two join seams. With the seam bolts loose you can more easily fit the bumper up close to the body on the sides and get a really nice fit before getting all the bolts nicely tightened. Jim

Rockauto is always a great starting point, they have an extensive listing for this truck. Be sure to surf the web for your 5% discount code, enter it in the "how did you find us?" box. http://www.rockauto.com/ Jim

And... it is certified to 2.1 g's!!!

Mike, that is a truly awesome yellow car! My tire size selection matches the 25" diameter of the original 175x14's, so - in my case it is probably the lowering that is providing the fill-effect. Jim

+1 on the WELR-N Roadster belts with the 11" extension. Easy install and very comfortable to wear. Frank - no joy on looking up the p/n you supplied. Jim

Here are my Konig Rewinds in a 16" X 7" with BFG g-Force Sport in a 205/55 X 16. My car is lowered with Mulholland springs, so this set-up fills the wheel wells nicely. The open spoke design allows painted calipers to show off. The Rota RB's and Panasports are excellent alternatives for a similar look. Jim

The engine started quickly and ran reasonably well, getting a huge grin from my rebuilder. With slight adjustments to the timing and a few tweaks on the carb mixture, it really smoothed out. Z Therapy rocks for their carb work!!! Jim

Here is my contribution. On the engine stand, those are my original 4-screw carbs, redone by Z Therapy, with emission parts removed, and Nissan factory blue on the block. I cleaned up my valve cover with a very light wet sanding to remove all oxidation but not enough to polish it. I took a buffing wheel and jeweler's polish to the channels on the top of the cover and brought them up to a mirror finish. A Dremel tool was used to get into the crevices around the letters. Oh... Kurbycar32 - pleaZZZe a little respect, these cars are not orange but are wonderful, beautiful, classic 920 Safari Gold. Jim

Looks like a terminology issue here. The cowl is generally thought of as the removable flat metal grill between the hood and windshield. Below it is the plenum area for the wiper motor and mechanism, cowl/plenum drains, and air inlet for the heater system. If I read the original note correctly, it is the plenum area that has some rust, much of which is very hard to get at (agreed!!!). One way to get to the rust is with a long rod tool with the end wrapped in sandpaper, emory cloth, or similar. Mount the rod in a drill motor to reach tough spots. Other long, skinny tools of your design may get to other spots and crevices. After that, a thorough cleaning with POR-15 Marine Clean (or other degreaser) followed by POR-15 Metal Ready (or similar) to kill the rust. Follow with primer and paint of your choice. Short of destroying the firewall and plenum area, it is almost impossible to reach all the small areas with any kind of tools. Hope this helps. Jim

Air ducts are available from MSA, made by a guy right here in the Dallas / Ft. Worth area. These are outstanding repros, I bought a set directly from him as soon as they became available last year. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP03/30-8062 Jim

Back in the 60's I bought a '56 Chevy convertible and decided with no solid top, seatbelts would be good. Got some generic ones at an auto supply, bolted them in, used them religiously. One day two old men ignored a yield sign and crossed the highway in front of me. I locked up the brakes but still smacked them at about 40 mph in the rear quarter. They spun and turned over, came out of their car OK. I had sore hips but no steering wheel impact. Belts have been used consistently ever since and saved me again from injury in a multi-car chain collision some years later. Jim

For 240's and presumably a 260, the FSM is very specific on correct installation of the oil pump: the engine should be at TDC for #1 to get the oil pump shaft properly oriented for the offset on the distributor shaft. Read the book, then proceed. Jim

Suggest you try to find a local Z club and tie in with fellow enthusiasts. Barring that, a local shop that is familiar with these cars. Jim

If it is the original glove box, you may be able to fold it and get it into position from the front. If it is a new box, it will probably be very stiff and may not fold easily (potential damage here!). If new and rigid, the install will be best from the rear. The blower motor will have to come out to provide access room. Been there, done that! Jim

When you do get your replacement parts, be sure to check if you should be double-nutting. That is the stock setup on my car because it is virtually impossible to lock up a single nut when compressing rubber or even poly bushings. Jim

Awesome report Frank - another Series 1 back in the garage. Looking forward to your posts on this "new" beauty now in your care. Jim