GunnerRob

My first car was a ‘57 Chevy 4 door Biscane I bought when I was 15 in Florida for $300 from a guy I knew who used it to drag race. He dropped a 283 four barrel in it, welded the spider gear so it always turned both rear wheels, and cut off the exhaust pipes about a foot down from the manifold, so it was REALLY loud when I got it. Oh, and he relocated the gear shift from the column to the floor. When I bought it, it was basically all there and original inside and out except for the previous mods. After I installed an exhaust system, it was a fun car, but not very reliable. The welded spider gears caused the tires to chew themselves up going around corners and, if you didn’t do it just right, would cause the rear u-joint on the drive shaft to break while trying to peel rubber. I learned to carry spares and a couple of wrenches in the trunk at all times. I had the car for about 8 months before I had to give it up due to the fact I lost my job and couldn’t make the payments anymore. Two cars I wished I still had are the ‘62 MG Midget and ‘68 Mustang 2+2 (fastback) I owned. The Midget had a high performance 850 cc 4 cylinder engine and a racing clutch. That thing would twist rear axles off if I didn’t break the tires loose taking off from a standing stop while trying to burn rubber. And everything they say about Lucas electrics being the “Prince of Darkness” is true. It seemed like I was always fixing something in the electrical system on that car. But it had a lot of character and was fun to drive. Kind of like a go kart with a body. The Mustang was my pride and joy. I actually gave it to a girl I lived with when I bought a ‘73 Pontiac Firebird Esprit because she previously sold her Chevy Nova to pay for a transmission and tires for the Mustang.

It seemed like a flash to me.

Coming up on 52 this October. Man...just last year I was 25! After 50 we don't "leap".

"Shaved"? Doesn't shaved mean the entire body is devoid of emblems, handles, etc.? Your Z looks great though. Did you install something behind the fiberglass bumpers for crash protection? I've thought about installing the same kit on my 280 and would like to know what other people have done for protection.

Mike, Enrique. That is very good information to have. Thanks for all of that. I know that I wouldn't have known about Craftsman being a choice of torque wrench or about setting it at zero. I learned something new today and I appreciate it!

Has anyone seen this book on garage design? I haven't seen it yet, but it may be something worth looking into. http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=70-1046&Category_Code=TB

Ya! And I want mine in US dollars!

I found it easier and faster to just buy rebuilt calipers at MSA or local auto parts stores. That way you get pads too.

I don't know whether to say "Merry Christmas" or "hurry up and go play the lotto"! I would've liked to see the look on your face when you realized you had a 5 speed!! :eek:

Hi zman. I had an '81 5 speed rebuilt and installed in my '75 280z and my Z specialty mechanic (who sold me the tranny and rebuilt it) had to modify the shift lever (bend it) so it would be in the same position as the old 4 speed. I had replaced the driveshaft prior to this swap due to the fact that the original u-joints couldn't be replaced, but I had no problems with it fitting. Hope this helps.

I believe you meant the "empty 2005 event", but is the car a 1987 300ZX, or a 1978 280Z?

That's right folks! Inbred Jed is letting his pride and joy go. Folks, this car is so customized, it even has a secondary fuel tank!!! You gotta see this one to believe it! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Street-Strip-77-Datsun-280Z-Performance-Extras-Wheels_W0QQitemZ4565282902QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

Hi Nate. I believe, in the early days of average American engines, that the valves were in the side of the block, in the verticle position, and were actuated by a cam that was mounted in the lower end of the block (see picture below). So, when the OHV engines were introduced, they apparently were marketed as the new "OHV" valve engines. If I'm way off base here, please let me know. I hate to be wrong.

I know the factory put plastic sheeting on the doors of '75 280Z's. It was installed on the inside steel part of the door between the door and interior panel with a black, gummy, sticky goo, and the plastic sheeting covered the entire area just shy of being seen around the edges of the interior panel. Does that make any sense? Anyway, I believe it's mainly there to protect the interior panel fiberboard from moisture. I know if I knew my doors didn't have those protective barriers, I'd sure be looking into getting some on there soon. After all, you gotta wash the car sometime. :nervous: While you're working on the doors, make sure the drain holes are clear and protected to prevent rust. One final thought. I recall now that when I first pulled my door panels off a few years ago, the original plastic sheeting was kind of thin compared to the 3 mil stuff on there now. It was also brittle and tearing apart. Like anything else on these old cars, things do get old and wear out. So it's probably a good idea for most of us that haven't had the panels off for awhile to pull them and see what shape the protective barrier is in.

If you guys would show us where you live, using "user CP" then "edit profile" under "Additional information", then maybe one of us that are near you could come over and help you out. :stupid: Sometimes I get the feeling that the club members who don't list this information are hiding from the FBI!

That's why I find this Z's color scheme a very attractive choice for it's stealth look. It's low key and the BRE style hood/fender stripes give it character. If the interior were black it would be even more low key. Now, if I could find someone to paint my Z to look like asphalt...

Hi George and all. Have you ever had a project where the harder you try the behinder(?) you get? Well, that's what this project is getting to be like. I'm definately moving forward with this, but the guy making the covers is having a hard time getting them perfect. I do have a few uncoated sets in my posession and they turned out nice, but I've got to find a way to get the costs down. I may have to settle for covers that deviate a little from the original surface texture. That's about it for now. I hope to have some good news for you all soon. Thanks for your patience.

Bemmerguy, I think what's happened here is a lack of communication. Some of the time the "old timers" are used to responding to calls for help by suggesting that the person look to vendors for parts, but forget that the person calling for help doesn't know the abbreviations for the vendors we use. MSA stands for Motorsport Auto. It's kind of like us "old timers" trying to understand highly abbreviated thread responses from young guys like yourself. KWIM (no what I mean)? If you don't understand something, say so and ask for clarification. There really is no such thing as a dumb question. We've all been there! Also, when someone signs up with the club, the rest of us somewhat expect the new guy to make an effort to help themselves by way of searching around the site, using a manual like the one offered in this site's store, and being gracious to the people who do help them out, by thanking them. This may be a "Z family", but no one here is obligated to answer a bunch of questions that could obviously have been answered with a quick search. Using all of the tools at your disposal will go a long way to successfully completing your quest for help, and getting along with everyone at the same time. Good spelling and grammer in your postings would help too.

Here's a custom paint job on a truck (Sorry, not a Z) that I found on a members site. Wadduya think?

Geez Mike, those will cause other types of repetative stress syndromes!

Motorsport's upholstery kits are for both seats.

satolsa, keep in mind 240Z's DIDN'T come with Solex carbs. They came with SU style carbs. So the manual Beandip is referring to won't help at all with your carbs. If I were in your predicament, I'd eBay off the Solex's and buy roundtop SU's and start from there. I've been a member of this club for nearly three years and I don't ever recall reading of Solex carbs here. :eek: On the other hand, there are quite a few " SU experts" here, including many who race competetively, that would be more than happy to help you out with SU issues, especially after you have searched the old threads FIRST.

Ya, they're the same size as the ones that are used for the taillight panels.

Yes, small plastic rivets in the corners and center locations. And, the screws have metal finishing washers (the ones that have the raised/radiused exposed portion). The same washers as discussed on this thread:http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=136918#post136918

Hi Mike Here's what I have in the '75 280z. This panel is unmolested.