Zed Head

Can't really figure out what you're saying, but it sounds like you closed the AFM contact switch by hand and the power wire at the pump shorted on something, melting the end of the wire. Is that about right? You might have blown a fuse or melted a fusible link also. If you're asking why it had power, that's what is supposed to happen if the key is on. When the AFM contact switch closes, after the vane opens, the switch powers the relay and the relay sends power to the pump (or another relay, not 100% sure right now, either way the pump line gets power).

I picked up a $6 voltage regulator to see if I could fix my old 1978 alternator. In removing the VR, the "sub-diodes" came apart (I read the FSM after the fact, it suggests holding the lead with pliers as a heat sink to protect them :mad:). But I think that they might have been bad anyway since the other diodes checked out okay. Who knows. The alternator charged fine, by voltmeter readings, but the charge light went on and increased in intensity with RPM, which seems like a diode problem. Would anyone know where anything about these tiny diodes and where a suitable replacement might be found? I don't really have anything to lose so any WAG is appreciated. I've attached a couple of pictures, of the new VR and brush assembly with the three sub-diodes laying on top, and one of a single sub-diode. Another possibility is the complete brush and VR assembly for ~$41 but I'm trying the super-cheap method first. Parts obtained from Rock Auto. Thanks for looking.

For anyone looking for resto parts for their 240Z, here's a Hybridz member trying to sell some hubs - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109717-240z-front-hubs-for-sale/page__pid__1026748#entry1026748

I think that 75 is wired like 76 and 77. The 15 seconds of running part sounds like either the fuel pump contact switch in the AFM isn't making contact (might be dirty at the contact points), or the fuel pump relay in the combined relay (combined with the fuel injection relay) isn't working. The combined relay is above the hood release handle inside the car. I had the contact switch in the AFM get a piece of dirt or hair or something stuck between the contacts and the car would start, run for a few seconds, then die. I didn't understand how things worked back then so I jumped the fuel pump from my defroster circuit at the back window with a spare piece of wire that the PO had dangling under the car. The Start circuit bypasses the AFM switch and sends power directly to the fuel pump relay. I think that the AFM switch powers the relay through another circuit. You can check the AFM switch by turning the key on and moving the vane in the AFM (take the black cover off of the side and move the weight or remove the big air hose). If the switch and relay circuit is working, the pump will turn on. If the pump doesn't turn on, you could jump the AFM switch at the contact points or clean the contacts. If the pump still doesn't run, then check the relay under the dash.

Will it start using Starting Fluid? If not, the problem is probably spark-related. Squirt some through a vacuum fitting on the manifold. You can listen to see if the pump is running by removing the yellow wire from the starter solenoid and turning the key to Start. You'll hear it. Then you won't have to wonder if the relay (at least part of it) and pump work or not.

Sounds more like a broken wire or loose connection. Have you looked at the moving parts of your throttle linkage to see if it's moving some wires when you "hit the gas"? There's only two things that should affect the gauge needle - electrical current and oil pressure. Oil pressure would be slow so electrical is most likely. Does it happen if you press the throttle when not moving or only when moving? Here's a guess - when you accelerate the wiring at the sender swings back and loses connection. It's part of a big bundle. Or the gauge ground itself is losing contact.

I used a full-size set of Vise-Grips. File any rounded off metal down to give two nice flats on the nut, clean any oil off of the Vise-Grip jaws and the nut, crank the Vise-Grips down tight, heat the metal around the nut with the torch, and apply rotation. If the Vise-Grips start to slip at all, start over, re-position and re-tighten the grips. Watch your knuckles when they let go, they can be very tight.

There's a 71 in the Portland South PnP - http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=97225&Lat=45.506451&Lng=-122.775622&Make=Datsun&Model=280&Distance=200

Have you seen any of the Cardone rebuilt distributors? How was the quality? I've come across a few accounts of poor quality from Cardone's rebuilt products, in general. They seem to have a very large share of the market though, so may be the only choice.

They used points up to 1974. The 1972 FSM has pictures and instructions, might be better than Haynes. Probably the same as 1970. Engine Electrical chapter - www.xenons30.com/reference The breaker plate assembly comes out as one complete unit. Once it's out you can see down to where the centrifugal weights are. The two screws that hold the breaker plate down are out on the edges, they might be buried under that grime. Find the two square projections on the dist. body and look down at the bottom of them, you should see the screws holding the plate down. Can't tell if you already have it out or if you're trying to take it apart in the distributor. The later breaker plates, like used in the electronic dist.'s used a wire spring clip around the bottom of the hole in the center of the breaker plate assembly to hold the two plates together. Maybe you have a newer plate.

More clarity needed. "Before I blew it apart" - what does that mean? "before I took it apart" - is it apart now? You said that you "got a header etc. installed". That implies that someone else installed them. Do you mean that you installed it, blew it apart/took it apart, and when you put it back together these problems appeared? "before I took it apart my electric fan and fuel pump worked fine and now when you turn on the key it does'nt come on at full power". The fan or the pump or both? "It" is singular. If you took it apart and put it back together, describe what you took off to get the header on and any problems you had putting it back together. There might be some clues there. Just trying to help you describe the issue...

Pretty sure y'all are replying to threads that are over 7 years old. Trivia - the rapper Easy-E was a member of N.W.A.

I think that with the Datsunstore you never really know until you call. They're moving to a new location so, who knows, maybe they'll find some old stuff. Worth a call.

The wire in the picture is just the spring for the handle. The end of the rod is a press fit through the plastic piece that is in the hole on the door handle piece. It's L-shaped at the end. I think that I stuck a wide screwdriver between the rod and the door handle piece and popped it out with a twisting motion but it was difficult since I was trying not to break the handle. If I was going to try again I might stick a wider chisel end or scraper in there to twist the rod out, levering off of the inner door handle. When you re-install it, it's just a press fit to pop the rod end through the hole n the plastic piece. Still difficult unless you have strong finger tips. Not much room to squeeze.

Have you changed or even checked the fluid recently? Redline MT90 alone, or a blend of ATF and Swepco 201 transmission fluid (50/50 or 25/75) has "fixed" synchro problems, or bought some time, for me. The fluid can have a big impact on synchro performance. Might be worth a try, for about $30 + labor.

Post #4 here talks a little bit about the light - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread36480.html

Here's a maybe - http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cName/7073-240-z1-ac-heating-dash-venting-1

In addition to CSV enrichment,there's also another start enrichment. Probably opens the injectors longer. Maybe the ECU doesn't run the start enrichment if the CSV is not enriching either. There's a diagram in the 76 FSM, Engine Fuel chapter. The description of how the thermotime switch works, with a drawing, is in the Engine Fuel section also, for the 76 model anyway (didn't realize it until just now). The FSMs got less descriptive over the years so the ZX FSM may not have it.

Expensive, but available - http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cName/engine-4-filters-intake-air-cleaners-4 If I was in your boat I would go to Home Depot and look at plumbing adapters and vacuum hoses and cobble something together.

Can you make it over to Index, WA? http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/3305270485.html And, I'm not sure if the hose will work, but there's a 77 in Lynnwood - http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=97225&Lat=45.506451&Lng=-122.775622&Make=Datsun&Model=280&Distance=200 You could also post here - http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/

No offense, but you did remove the gland nut, right? Can't be sure, you said you removed the "wheel mount" which is not a common term. Plus, where would you attach opposing pipe wrenches. The shaft will twist inside the strut so that wouldn't work. Not clear what you're torquing on.

The AAR just lets air past the throttle body blade. It has the same effect as cracking the throttle open a little bit (he even says that in his writing). I can't see it affecting HP at all. I read through that page and it's an odd thing to say considering the other information he shares.

Have you confirmed that the u-joints are bad? Your post reads like you could barely tell from just looking at it. Good luck if the eyeball diagnosis works out. You'll have to drain the transmission fluid when you pull the yoke unless you have fast hands. You might replace the output shaft seal if it looks leaky. It just pries out and taps in. And new fluid if it's not recent.

That is my understanding. I think that the mechanism of how the thermotime switch works is similar to the AAR except that instead of a bimetal strip closing a valve it opens an electrical switch. The thermotime switch looks like the ground for the CSV in the wiring diagram. The bimetal strip heater in the switch and the CSV get power from the same source, and the ground for the CSV runs through the contact side of the switch. Heat from the engine can also open the thermotime switch, just like the AAR. Looks like DZR might think (or thought) that the CSV stays open when the engine is cold. You realize that this is a zombie thread from 2007?...

That's two of three that you've swapped. The coil is left. I've heard of cases where the heat of usage will open up a broken wire in a coil. You might check the resistance on the primary (coil + to coil -) and secondary (coil + or - to the center wire) circuits before and after the problem. If it's the coil they would check out okay, then not okay.