Zed Head

You can't go wrong using the coil resistance specified for your 240Z and its ballast resistor. It will be an old "low energy" ignition system though. About the same overall effect as installing a Pertronix unit in the stock distributor. And you'll want to think about your timing advance curves, to get best performance. The Mallory site says MAL-4563901 is out-of-stock also. So if the module does get damaged, you may not be able to get replacement parts. More buzz-kill. It's a dilemma. There aren't many ways to spend your way up to higher quality any more. I get the idea but, from what I see, Mallory seems like a product on its way out. Out-of-stock x 3. If you have one, keep running it until it dies, but if not, another option might be a better starting point. The ZX distributors, or 280Z with a high-energy module (HEI or MSD), seem well-supported, and easy to wire. Not sure where 123 is business-wise, but they've been around with other car brands for many years so odds are they're safe.

If you post the part number of the Mallory unit you're planning to install people can offer more advice. I think that the fragility of the Unilite module was addressed by Mallory quite a while ago. It may not be an issue any more. Maybe that's what the "power filter" is for. Both Unilite and the Datsun-focused Pertronix parts are old technology that has been farmed out to cheap manufacturers and is barely supported anymore by anyone, from what I've seen. That's why parts are "out of stock". The name still holds sway, but the product is not "high-tech" anymore. I could be wrong but that's the impression I get. Low volume product just doesn't get the company support that the money-making stuff does. Not to harsh your mellow but something to think about. http://mallory-ignition.com/mmy/results/index/?top=%E2%A4%B7+Distributors+and+Components&top-val=%E2%A4%B7+Distributors+and+Components&year=1970&year-val=1970&make=NISSAN&make-val=NISSAN&model=240Z+L6+2.4+LITER&model-val=240Z+L6+2.4+LITER&engine=Engine&engine-val=&trans=Transmission&trans-val=&brand=Mallory&brand-val=Mallory&mmy-sku= https://prestoliteperformance.com/media/instructions/mallory/Mallory_Instructions_unilite_distributor_wiring_diagram_test_procedure_1214M_0000.pdf

"Unilite" refers to the triggering mechanism for spark. You shouldn't need any Pertronix parts. Pertronix uses magnets, Unilite uses LED light. It should install just like the 2363901, except that there will be no place to attach a vacuum advance hose.

Another one I came across. Who knows? But they don't have a physical address so still sketchy. I sent an e-mail asking for a quote. http://www.gearheadengines.com/products/showPart?year=1978&make=Nissan&model=280z&part_num=321&id_num=86612&selector=gasEngine

Here's an informative link - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic12c Seems like there's an opportunity here for somebody. If only I had taken a different path when younger...

His price on long blocks really isn't terrible - $2500 + $300 >> $2800. And the P90 head. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-280Z-ZX-Rebuilt-Long-Block-Engine-Motor-TURBO-P90-Head-F54-L28-/151585757437?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item234b3718fd versus Powertorque (OReilly Auto), with the N47 head. $1969 + $260 (core) >> $2229. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ1/321/02239.oap?year=1982&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209350&ck=Search_engine+block-long_1209350_2513&keyword=engine+block-long BUT - it looks like Powertorque is a little shady also - http://power-torque-engines.pissedconsumer.com/ http://www.bbb.org/dallas/business-reviews/engines-rebuild-and-exchange/power-torque-engines-in-grand-prairie-tx-90405420/complaints No dependable mass market rebuilds out there.

Can't help it folks. When I see this guy's stuff I have to say something. Looks like he has reloaded, raised his prices,and is plowing ahead. These are early Mustang mirrors. I have a set on my car, bought from MSA. Probably where he gets them too. Nice mark-up, if you can get it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-Z-240Z-260Z-280ZX-510-620-521-Truck-Chrome-Door-Mirrors-70-83-/400861532256?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d55359060 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-1164

She would have first said "Gad!" when she saw this on eBay. Notice that it's "Built to order" with "Polished Valve Cover". The guy is amazing, just keeps asking for more and more... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-510-521-610-620-L20B-Rebuilt-Long-Block-Engine-Motor-Head-w-Warranty-/151563859150 **On Sale This Week Only** NOT Actual Engine shown, we build them to order. Get this at a SUPER SALE!Normally $2500! POLISHED VALVE COVER AS SHOWN INCLUDED.

Those look like Hulk hands. Don't get angry! I had a thought on your copper spray question - better check the head for warpage. Copper spray = head gasket or head change = potential overheating = potential warpage. Although, since you're playing with the N47 head on the L24 block, it may not be relevant. Your title is "Rebuild" but it seems like you might be leaning toward "Performance build".

They do look good. Did they send the ZPaste along with the rockers? Wonder if they've always done that or if the recent cam destruction cases have made an impact. Maybe we should thank Leon and madkaw for their sacrifices, along with yours, re DPLLC.

Yep, the toothpaste is out of the tube now... On wiring diagrams - Saridout's wiring diagram links in his past messages don't work anymore so I sent him a message. He's moved them to a new spot. I put the links at the end of his previous messages so that no one has to come here to get them.

New links - http://sridout.com/storage/datsun/70circuit_COLORFINAL.pdf http://sridout.com/storage/datsun/72circuit_COLOR4.pdf

New link - http://sridout.com/storage/datsun/76circuit_COLOR.pdf Thanks to saridout. He's out there somewhere.

The recommendation about the crossmember is good, but the later model Z's used rubber bushings on the member/body mounting points. So it won't be rigid like an early 240Z would be. False sense of security. Still, you could tack in a brace or two, or drill a few holes to mount some strategic braces.

Come Oooonnnnnn! You can't be serious!!!!!! Cars!!!! Let's not discuss this at all.

Nice pictures. I can see the factory hone marks in the cylinders but also the classic rust line of an engine that's been sitting (my old one has that). I see that you have a chain tensioner block installed. Like you haven't decided yet how far to tear it down.

Is it not described in the FSM? Nissan did a good job of showing how to tear down their transmissions. MT chapter, choose something like 1986 300ZX. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-300zx-factory-service-manuals.html

And circle back to Post #89. Trust but verify.

I see. It came that way, previous damage. I started in the middle of the pictures. Looks like your damper was going bad also. Do you have specs. on the engine. CR, valve lift, final displacement, etc.? I saw the general stuff but no numbers. The valve relief in those pistons has to lower CR. Just wondering. Looks like he's running 0.54 mm (0.021") "pop-up" on the pistons also. There was just an interesting thread on that a few days ago. Thanks for posting.

I'm still betting that some of the rocker arm refinishes are done by people there who don't know what they're doing. If your batch gets the right guy, awesome, if you get the wrong guy, hell. It's a simple looking job that takes a lot of care to do right. Set up for mistakes.

Serious looking pistons. Must be planning some high valve lift. Post 70 and 80 say stock stroke. Do you know why he had to massage the oil pan? Just curious.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50944-want-slightly-louder-exhaust-without-changing-much/

The L28 will definitely give more power. 17% more displacement. If you're worried about CR, you could get a P79 head, then you'll be at the factory's 8.8 CR. Make sure the SU's can flow enough air to feed the L28 if you go that route. I'm not an SU guy so don't know what people do when they go with a bigger engine.

Not sure. Many people have done what you're doing though. Some say the box is fine without the floors, some say it's all wiggly and twisty. There's probably a best method out there somewhere. What I'm saying is that locking in a misalignment with new welded-in parts, then bending the box's new metal and welds to get the suspension aligned, could cause warps and bends in unwanted places. My guess is that the best way to do it is in parallel. At the same time. Weld the parts in while controlling alignment. Just bringing up a different perspective.

I think that this might be backward. Don't forget that these are not "framed" cars. They are big sheet metal boxes, kind of like an old lunch pail. AKA monocoque or unibody. Best to use the welding to hold or create the shape, not bend the welding after it's done.